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distance with .17hmr


evo
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hi all,,what is the realistic distance that an .17hmr should be zero,d at, can it be accurate upto 150 to 180 mtrs and also could you please recomend wether synthetic stock or wood would be best,,sorry to ask many questions but would like to know,,many thanks for your replies in advance oh also could you let me know what ammo would be best over the above distance if the rifle is capable of it,,many thanks again,,,evo

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I zeroed mine at 100m in an indoor range. Bang on with sub inch group. As for effective range in the field it really depends on the weather conditions and ability of the shooter. I would much rather take a closer Target and be sure of killing it outright than a riskier long shot. I rarely shoot at more than 120 m.

Some of the PW snipers on here will claim amazingly long shots and be able to hit stuff in the next county.

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I've shot a rabbit at 130m standing off sticks. Further with a dead steady rest. If you go to mildots and holdover you'll push it a lot further.

 

I bought a wood stock, but for the bashing about in the car and in the dark I may have gone synthetic if I did it all over again. Doesn't really matter.

 

I'm zero'd @30m and then dead on again @100m. Just easier to re-check zero @ 30m.

 

(my .22 is now zero'd at 60 yards)

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thanks lads just asking cos my shooting buddy has just got his FAC and is looking for advice,he originally applied for a .22 rimfife but was told 60 to 80yrds max and he was looking for more on 150yrds so had it changed to a .17hmr,,it is for vermin control on his land,,it has been checked and ok,d,(his land)what gun would you recomend for £500 max new to get,many thanks again and i will pass your info on to him,,cheers we both looked around the game fair and the cz seemed reasonable

 

I've shot a rabbit at 130m standing off sticks. Further with a dead steady rest. If you go to mildots and holdover you'll push it a lot further.

 

I bought a wood stock, but for the bashing about in the car and in the dark I may have gone synthetic if I did it all over again. Doesn't really matter.

 

I'm zero'd @30m and then dead on again @100m. Just easier to re-check zero @ 30m.

 

(my .22 is now zero'd at 60 yards)

thanks apache bud appreciate your reply
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Yep, zero at 100 yds. And set a working maximum of 150 yds kill range. You can check point of impact at a closer range and zero at that in future. I zero 20mm high at 70 yds which puts me on at 115. Some will say that's too far for an HMR. I only do it because it suits my ground. The vast majority of my shots are between 90 and 130 yds with regular shots to 150/160, so this zero works very well for me. The furthest shot I've taken was 184 yds. But the holdover and wind adjustment necessary is more trouble than its worth. I also use a .222 for rabbits and 180 yarders with that are sitters so if I'm getting frequent shots beyond 150 yds I've brought the wrong rifle or I'm using the wrong tactics.

The static sniping capabilities of the HMR make a range finder very useful. Ping some landmarks between 70 and 130 yds and shoot with absolute confidence in that zone.

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The static sniping capabilities of the HMR make a range finder very useful. Ping some landmarks between 70 and 130 yds and shoot with absolute confidence in that zone.

 

Depends how fussed you are about head shots. I usually chest shoot them at this range and the HMR kills well. Don't worry about range.

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i like to head shoot rabbits and set my zero at 100 yards which i think is bang on, any further and theres too much room for error with the little .17 bullet espeicially with wind although body shooting bunnys out to 150 yards is well acheivable if thats your thing. For pin accuracy 100 yards in my book.

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100yds is the optimum to zero a hmr, the peak trajectory will normally occur at around 80yds when the bullet will stike slightly high before it starts is down ward curve to drop into its 100 yds setting. usually about 1/2" above at peak, pushing the zero out further pushes the peak up and leads to misses over the top.

 

the key to zeroing a hmr is finding the best day wind wise or using a tunnel range as it is badly effected by wind. In capable hands head shots are well possible to 160 BUT it depends on the hands holding it and the shooters ability to judge wind and account for it. my Hmr would print sub 1/2" groups at 130 yds but i have been at it a while and the hard bit is not shooting groups from a well rested posision but placing that first shot on target without a prior sighter shot

 

i don't like plasic injection molded type stocks and find them bendy rubbish that also feel poor against the cheek in cold or wet weather. I doubt they would hold you back much though check out the flex in the forearm though as this can impact effective bipod use by contacting the barrel intermintantly with differing presure.

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Here check this out it will give you a good idea for drop compensation.

Make you wonder about the long range claims :hmm:

 

 

 

http://www.varmintal....htm#Trajectory

 

Alan

 

What sort of LONG range claims were you thinking about, 100 yard zero going out to 150-175 or even 200 yards isn't exactly taxing, but personally I rarely get too close to 200 yards with it in the field!

 

I tried it at 600 yards at Bisley a few months back, actually it may have been 500, whatever, just for fun, it was hard work getting it on the board! Just the same, I suspect with a bit more practice it is doable! :good:

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What sort of LONG range claims were you thinking about, 100 yard zero going out to 150-175 or even 200 yards isn't exactly taxing, but personally I rarely get too close to 200 yards with it in the field!

 

I tried it at 600 yards at Bisley a few months back, actually it may have been 500, whatever, just for fun, it was hard work getting it on the board! Just the same, I suspect with a bit more practice it is doable! :good:

 

More the 300 yard mark with 35" drop, seems personally pointless, to much to chance to even bother with, 200yards is do-able but 100 to 150 is acceptable in my own personal opinion.

I am talking in the field and the taking of live quarry (dead if you hit it) and not targets.

Alan

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More the 300 yard mark with 35" drop, seems personally pointless, to much to chance to even bother with, 200yards is do-able but 100 to 150 is acceptable in my own personal opinion.

I am talking in the field and the taking of live quarry (dead if you hit it) and not targets.

Alan

 

"PERSONALLY", I think 300 for a HMR is unrealistic in the field, if people want quarry at that distance they want another rifle altogether.

 

I rarely go past 150-160, but will commonly go out to 130(ish).

 

There is a train of thought that suggests around 126yards is a good zero distance if you shoot a lot out to 175-200 (saw a chart for this a while ago but can't remember where). Again, PERSONALLY, I don't consider the HMR and EVERYDAY 175-200 field tool!

 

:good:

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More the 300 yard mark with 35" drop, seems personally pointless, to much to chance to even bother with, 200yards is do-able but 100 to 150 is acceptable in my own personal opinion.

I am talking in the field and the taking of live quarry (dead if you hit it) and not targets.

Alan

 

My furthest kill at 184 yds was a side-on rabbit with its head down feeding taken in a stiff breeze. I heldover about 6" and about 10" for wind after missing wide with the first attempt, then struck it in the lower ribs when I was aiming at the shoulder blade. That's interesting target shooting but too vague for live quarry in my opinion. It hit it hard, broke the spine and killed it stone dead but it could too easily have made a mess. With the .222 I'd have aimed bang on and nailed it unless the wind was uprooting trees.

At 150 yds with the HMR holdover and windage would have been more like 3" either way which is simple to judge accurately.

So if its beyond 150 yds its a .222 shot with strategy planned accordingly. Besides, napper shooting rabbits at 200 yds with the triple is a hoot.

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