mickyh Posted September 20, 2013 Report Share Posted September 20, 2013 Just bought the above ,new. It states that it has an oiled stock,but there does'nt seem to be much oil in there to me ! Will it just be oil or will it have some type of topcoat/laquer on it? After being out in the rain it now has a few marks on it. So, Whats the best way to keep it in top condition without having to sand it down and start from scratch. Any products I should be looking at? Thanks Mick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickyh Posted September 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 20, 2013 Thanks, but how can I find out what oil was used at the Factory ? I've got Danish oil at home? Mick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr-Sheen Posted September 20, 2013 Report Share Posted September 20, 2013 If there are rain marks on it, it will be oiled, but it sounds dry. You should find out what iol is on there and oil it up. Wood will soak in as much as it wants. The dryer the wood, the more it will take. You can't over oil it, but do it in fine coats. +1 Thin layers of oil built up will give you a much smoother oiled finish that you want and will bring out the grain of the wood better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Westward Posted September 20, 2013 Report Share Posted September 20, 2013 I don't know much about Danish oil but I've the feeling that it's not much good at moisture proofing. All gun dealers carry stock oil of one kind or another but bear in mind that Beretta Tru-Oil isn't what you think. It's mostly varnish mixed with spirits and a little oil and you end up with a reasonably smooth gloss finish which some people really like. As said above, proper stock oil is applied in literally the smallest amounts and rubbed in as thinly as possible. It's important to be aware that oil doesn't dry, it polymerizes, which likes plenty of daylight and no hotter than room temp. Even then, depending on the type of oil, it can take up to 3 weeks to be touch dry, especially the later coats, so it takes mucho patience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickyh Posted September 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 20, 2013 So what do you think,if its got factory tru oil on, I'll need to wipe it down with thinners first to remove any varnish deposits, then use Napier stock oil and build it up ? Thanks Mick I don't know much about Danish oil but I've the feeling that it's not much good at moisture proofing. All gun dealers carry stock oil of one kind or another but bear in mind that Beretta Tru-Oil isn't what you think. It's mostly varnish mixed with spirits and a little oil and you end up with a reasonably smooth gloss finish which some people really like. As said above, proper stock oil is applied in literally the smallest amounts and rubbed in as thinly as possible. It's important to be aware that oil doesn't dry, it polymerizes, which likes plenty of daylight and no hotter than room temp. Even then, depending on the type of oil, it can take up to 3 weeks to be touch dry, especially the later coats, so it takes mucho patience. Its recommended for outdoor furniture, so it must be pretty good at proofing. I did an air rifle 10 years ago for my Son with it, and it came out lovely, but took a long time to dry ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest stevo Posted September 20, 2013 Report Share Posted September 20, 2013 how old is it ? stevo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MuPPeT_ON_TouR Posted September 20, 2013 Report Share Posted September 20, 2013 (edited) I've just got My SP1 back from GMK and while it was down for repair I spoke to the workshop and in particular a very nice man called Andy, I took the opportunity to pick his brains..... You need CCL Gunstock Conditioning Oil Follow the instructions, no need to remove the old finish just add the new stuff. You just need 24 hours or so for this oil to dry. Don't get it on the checkering! You can also treat the inside of the fore end, like mine you will probably find it very dry inside and unprotected. The oil will condition the wood, protect/seal it and bring out a nice shine. I'm writing this as I wait for my second coat to dry, I'm going to do 1 coat every few days till I have 5 or six applications/coats. Edited September 20, 2013 by MuPPeT_ON_TouR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickyh Posted September 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 20, 2013 I've just got My SP1 back from GMK and while it was down for repair I spoke to the workshop and in particular a very nice man called Andy, I took the opportunity to pick his brains..... You need CCL Gunstock Conditioning Oil Follow the instructions, no need to remove the old finish just add the new stuff. You just need 24 hours or so for this oil to dry. Don't get it on the checkering! You can also treat the inside of the fore end, like mine you will probably find it very dry inside and unprotected. The oil will condition the wood, protect/seal it and bring out a nice shine. I'm writing this as I wait for my second coat to dry, I'm going to do 1 coat every few days till I have 5 or six applications/coats. Thanks for that,I'll try and get some on Saturday. Mick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest stevo Posted September 20, 2013 Report Share Posted September 20, 2013 I've just got My SP1 back from GMK and while it was down for repair I spoke to the workshop and in particular a very nice man called Andy, I took the opportunity to pick his brains..... You need CCL Gunstock Conditioning Oil Follow the instructions, no need to remove the old finish just add the new stuff. You just need 24 hours or so for this oil to dry. Don't get it on the checkering! You can also treat the inside of the fore end, like mine you will probably find it very dry inside and unprotected. The oil will condition the wood, protect/seal it and bring out a nice shine. I'm writing this as I wait for my second coat to dry, I'm going to do 1 coat every few days till I have 5 or six applications/coats. +1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gazbev Posted September 20, 2013 Report Share Posted September 20, 2013 Hold on,if its a new gun what's the problem? I have a SP 1 too and the oiled finish isn't the best because its a cheap cut of wood,if its like mine it's a little open grained.If you mean rain marks you mean dull patches on the stock this is to be expected,dry it off and add a very small amount of walnut oil and palm it in with the heat of your hand. The stock is oiled it just needs topping up a little.you will be amazed how little the stock takes in,let dry naturally for a few days and buff. I use CCL but on bare stocks for re finishing,your stock is finished Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
utectok Posted September 20, 2013 Report Share Posted September 20, 2013 True oil is the stuff isn't it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MuPPeT_ON_TouR Posted September 21, 2013 Report Share Posted September 21, 2013 Hold on,if its a new gun what's the problem? I have a SP 1 too and the oiled finish isn't the best because its a cheap cut of wood,if its like mine it's a little open grained.If you mean rain marks you mean dull patches on the stock this is to be expected,dry it off and add a very small amount of walnut oil and palm it in with the heat of your hand. The stock is oiled it just needs topping up a little.you will be amazed how little the stock takes in,let dry naturally for a few days and buff. I use CCL but on bare stocks for re finishing,your stock is finished You can get CCL gun stock oil to finish off a new stock, what I'm on about is their conditioning oil for pre oiled/finished stocks. "This Preparation has been specially blended by Clive C. Lemon - Gun Maker to restore the sheen to existing oil finishes or to add an extra shine to the surface of the traditional hand rubbed oil finish." "New stocks oil finished in the traditional way can be improved still further by an application of this product to give a beautiful surface sheen to the wood. This oil is specially recommended for use after oil finishing with CCL Traditional Gunstock Oil Finishing Kit" It says to give it one or two coats over a season. So YES, use the conditioning oil to top up the thin coat Beretta do in the first place. I'm on my second coat and the dry sort of light areas near the rubber butt pad have gone and the inside of the fore end almost looks as nice as the outside.. Yes the wood used on the stock on the SP1 is very basic, but the conditioning oil has improved the look of the wood, sealed and protected it, I also believe it will help reduce water marks when it rains, making them easier to wipe off and not leave marks.. I will stick it in the rain once I have done and find out. CCL conditioning oil, as recommended by the workshop guy at GMK. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickyh Posted September 21, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2013 Just to say I'm going to buy the CCL oil today and I'll report back with my findings/results in the coming weeks. A big thank you to all contributed,a wealth of information in PW ! Regards Mick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickyh Posted October 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2013 Well the CCL oil has made my AYA No 4 look lovely (it was very dry),but it hasnt made much difference to my Beretta ? Rain marks are still there ? Makes the wood sheen though, not glossy like old English Walnut. Anyone got anything to add on this,I would like the finish to look better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welshwarrior Posted October 11, 2013 Report Share Posted October 11, 2013 Beretta like most use a varnish now or Truoil (mostly varnish) you aya had a proper oil finish. I stripped my SP1 28 bore filled the grain etc properly and then oiled it properly looks great but it's a labour of love. You could try a hard wax after burnishing back the water marks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JDog Posted October 11, 2013 Report Share Posted October 11, 2013 +1 Thin layers of oil built up will give you a much smoother oiled finish that you want and will bring out the grain of the wood better. I use Mr Sheen on my stocks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickyh Posted October 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2013 I use Mr Sheen on my stocks. Well at least they will smell nice ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverhawk Posted October 11, 2013 Report Share Posted October 11, 2013 (edited) +1 ccl gunstock oil is great stuff.I have used this on all my guns.just fine wire wool the stock and forend then add one coat every few days.I put about 6 coats on mine and its like a mirror.every stocks different so yours might need more or less. Edited October 11, 2013 by silverhawk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
itchy trigger Posted October 11, 2013 Report Share Posted October 11, 2013 You need CCL Gunstock Conditioning Oil had the same problem with my Beretta, had a word with the dealer I bought from, they recommended CCL Gunstock Conditioning Oil, I used a very fine nylon sanding pad to rub the water marks off, then put lots of coats of the Conditioning Oil on until the grain was filled, then I polished with the CCL Fine Wax Polish, looks good people have remarked on the finish and it does bring out the grain in the wood, shows every new dent and scratch though, I'm just not carefull enough Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
itchy trigger Posted October 12, 2013 Report Share Posted October 12, 2013 forgot to mention, do not oil the chequering, or it will fill, I used an old toothbrush to go over it very lightly with the oil just for protection Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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