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Milling


.philmypower.
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Looks a very simple set up for milling. I like it.Does it work well? Do u use a special ripping chain on the saw?Any mills i have seen have always been far larger built around a trailer type. Are they dear? (pm if u want cheers)

It's a 48" alaskan mill and I'm running a 880 on it. The saw is 125cc with a ripping chain sharpened at 10 degrees. Getting the first cut is the tricky bit, but once you've done that with plenty of wedges your away.

Mill set up is about a grand all in then the saw is that again. Ripping chains are about £70 a piece and you must run a bar with a sprocket on the nose as it gets very hot.

It's a heavy lump but manageable.

Should also add it's very addictive.

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Amazing how expensive it is for effectively just 2 bits of metal. Thats similar to the price i thought they started at but i thought there was more to them, didn't realise they were so simlpe and basic

So are ripping chains about twice the price of a normal chain? But i bet its not cheap to put a normal chain on a bar that length either.

U wouldnae want to hit a nail with a new chain anyway ):

 

I take it they act as a guide to keep ur saw/bar running square at the desired plank thickness.

 

Think i'll carry on logging everything. Mibee save u 1 day. But got more logs lying than i'll ever use would be nice to do something different

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Just chorded up a 100ft leyandi, i know not ur classic milling timber but very straight the other day too, for moving it. I left it almost pole length for ages thinking of doing that, be too short now.

Quite liked the very plain wood light coloured wood.

 

How good a finish does it leave? Would planks coming of that be good enough for floor boards without a lot of extra work? Planing/sanding

Mibee look into it a bit more, got a ruined house to renovate and got enough firewood to last me for years and years and still some big timber to come down, mainly sycamore or beech thou, althou can buy large oaks for 30ish quid of the local estate.

 

Might look into this a bit more.

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Although the finish is quite good, if using for floorboards they would need reasoning and a sanding down. It's mote suited if you wanted to make your own kitchen. Beach is good, can get some very nice couple ring in it but the sycamore would need treating as woodworm love it.

If you can get decent diameter oak for 30 quid that's a steal. Once milled you would be looking around 80quid a cubic foot

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Estate cannae get rid of them as u ned to have ur windblow tickets ppe etc, in the past een a the local villagers getting it for free.

At moment they all just get logged for firewood so even at 30 odd quid still a lot of work to do to get any return, and not many qualifed boys want to do the work too many folk selling firewood locally.

 

I'll have to look into this a bit more. Cheers for putting the idea in my head. Would be cracking to mill ur own flor boards or kitchen top etc

 

Thinking about it the estate owner across the valley had a trailer type mill a good few years ago, think u reversed it up to stem/timber. But very shortly after that almost amputated his leg with it and never used it again. Dunno if he still has it.

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Although the finish is quite good, if using for floorboards they would need reasoning and a sanding down. It's mote suited if you wanted to make your own kitchen. Beach is good, can get some very nice couple ring in it but the sycamore would need treating as woodworm love it.

If you can get decent diameter oak for 30 quid that's a steal. Once milled you would be looking around 80quid a cubic foot

£35 per cubic foot for good quality Oak, no splits, but that is a trade price.

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Not that I'd ever have the joy of owning a bit of kit like that, but a few questions out of curiosity...

Do you dry the wood? Before or after sawing? How thin can you reasonably go? Do you sell then like in the picture, or square them off? And lastly do you sell them to bespoke kitchen makers / furniture makers or timber yards?

I'd love to be a tree surgeon/lumberjack, very jealous.

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£35 per cubic foot for good quality Oak, no splits, but that is a trade price.

If you've got some good heart wood and something special you can get that but you would be pushing it. There are a few web sites who deal in this and some of there prices are even higher.

 

Not that I'd ever have the joy of owning a bit of kit like that, but a few questions out of curiosity...

Do you dry the wood? Before or after sawing? How thin can you reasonably go? Do you sell then like in the picture, or square them off? And lastly do you sell them to bespoke kitchen makers / furniture makers or timber yards?

I'd love to be a tree surgeon/lumberjack, very jealous.

Really about 1" is as small as I think you'd get away with as it would split too much whilst drying but you can go as thick as 9", you can get an adapter to go bigger but I've not had the need. It's up to you with regards to seasoning. I mill whenever I have the time and stack as I cut, I put roofing batons between each plank and stack it in the shade neatly. It looks and smells great, I'll take a pic for you today. To season you want to keep it out of direct sunlight to avoid splitting and PVA the sides. Once seasoned just run a plane over the boards to get the natural coupler back and treat with a nice oil.

Being a tree surgeon if felling something nice I offer it as a service, then the customer can get their tree made into a table or something nicer than logs.

If you have nice planks, you won't struggle to find a home for them. You can also mill posts easy enough, this will make you very popular with your local farmers.

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