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8 Bore Reloading


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Got myself a Ralf Grant 8 bore and I am looking for some recipes for reloading.

I have already got some Blue dot powder and some cheddite primers but my concern is what wads to use because Ralf Grants are not a true 8 bore.

I initially intend to use lead through it and when I am more confident move to non toxic shot.

Have reloaded rifle rounds before but not shotgun so any advice would be most great full.

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Got myself a Ralf Grant 8 bore and I am looking for some recipes for reloading.

I have already got some Blue dot powder and some cheddite primers but my concern is what wads to use because Ralf Grants are not a true 8 bore.

I initially intend to use lead through it and when I am more confident move to non toxic shot.

Have reloaded rifle rounds before but not shotgun so any advice would be most great full.

Clay and game have 8 bore recipes, i use blue dot in lead and some steel reloads for my 10g but not seen any for the 8g on the alliant powder website, what is your quarry and where will you be using the gun,

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Got myself a Ralf Grant 8 bore and I am looking for some recipes for reloading.

I have already got some Blue dot powder and some cheddite primers but my concern is what wads to use because Ralf Grants are not a true 8 bore.

I initially intend to use lead through it and when I am more confident move to non toxic shot.

Have reloaded rifle rounds before but not shotgun so any advice would be most great full.

 

You can use over powder cards and fibre or felt wads with lead and bismuth and felt with a Claygame card wad cup or maybe a wrap for soft non tox like ITM, blue dot recipes are available for lead shot (and other non tox types) from clay game reloaders.

 

Like all reloading assemble all the components for your chosen formula before you start reloading. Be careful with plastic wads through a bored out ten....they were made for industrial use and can be oversize ( Dia) even for a tightly choked standard .835 eight bore! And may damage the barrels?

Have you resized the cases? ( I assume you are using plastic cases?) If not industrial 8 bore cases are unlikely to fit in you chambers unless re sized!

P1

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I have once fired Winchester cases which I have resized to suit a shotgun.

The wads I have are cork and I am not entirely sure sure if they are ok for the Ralf Grant it being a bit tightly bored.

I bought the components from clay and game but the load data they had to hand seemed a bit excessive for a bored out ten.

I initially thought the cork would be ok but having read some stuff online about the converted 10s being under size I now have my doubts.

It took me a while to find this gun and it is in good nick so I don't want to damage it by putting the wrong wads/ loads up the barrels.

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HIS TIGHT BORE IS NOT TO TIGHT AT ALL!

Not much different than a 12 g measuring .729" to one measuring .719". No one seems to panic over that!

I load my muzzleloaders with cards .030"+ !!

All he will get is a good gas seal!

U.

.815 actual bore Dia up to . 835 (nominal 8 bore) is double your example! ie. 20 thou undersize......... Not 10thou!.......add choke, possibly up to 20/30 thou.........trying to get a .846+ ( 11 thou over nominal 8 bore size) Gualandi plastic wad through that (ie. 51/61 thou oversize) is a recipe for disaster!

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.815 actual bore Dia up to . 835 (nominal 8 bore) is double your example! ie. 20 thou undersize......... Not 10thou!.......add choke, possibly up to 20/30 thou.........trying to get a .846+ ( 11 thou over nominal 8 bore size) Gualandi plastic wad through that (ie. 51/61 thou oversize) is a recipe for disaster!

So do I need to use smaller diameter cork/ fibre wads or will these be ok in standard 8 bore size?

I have no intention of using plastic wads through this gun so plastic is not be an issue.

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Got myself a Ralf Grant 8 bore and I am looking for some recipes for reloading.

I have already got some Blue dot powder and some cheddite primers but my concern is what wads to use because Ralf Grants are not a true 8 bore.

I initially intend to use lead through it and when I am more confident move to non toxic shot.

Have reloaded rifle rounds before but not shotgun so any advice would be most great full.

if you want a full reloading kit, with all the cases and felt wads pm me, I'm packing up, they is enough gear to see you through many years!

rob.

Edited by shakin stevens
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.815 actual bore Dia up to . 835 (nominal 8 bore) is double your example! ie. 20 thou undersize......... Not 10thou!.......add choke, possibly up to 20/30 thou.........trying to get a .846+ ( 11 thou over nominal 8 bore size) Gualandi plastic wad through that (ie. 51/61 thou oversize) is a recipe for disaster!

Ok dude, your the expert :lol:

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I had a Ralph Grant - bore was .813.

 

I consider myself to know what I am doing when reloading but still managed to bulge both barrels......................

Got the load details?

 

If a tight wad can bulge a barrel would it also not increase the bore for a considerable length?

Bulges can occur from numourous scenario's. A common mistake from reloaded ammo is poor ignition causing a partial obstruction of the ejecta and then the powder kicks in again.

Certain powders in larger bores need hot primers due to lower initial pressures. Hercules Unique in 12g loads often needs a magnum primer to avoid a "stutter".

 

If wads can pass through tight chokes at full chat they sure can start from zero and pass a forcing cone!

 

U.

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Got the load details?

 

If a tight wad can bulge a barrel would it also not increase the bore for a considerable length?

Bulges can occur from numourous scenario's. A common mistake from reloaded ammo is poor ignition causing a partial obstruction of the ejecta and then the powder kicks in again.

Certain powders in larger bores need hot primers due to lower initial pressures. Hercules Unique in 12g loads often needs a magnum primer to avoid a "stutter".

 

If wads can pass through tight chokes at full chat they sure can start from zero and pass a forcing cone!

 

U.

 

It is a well know fact that 10s that have been bored out to 8 at approx .815 suffer from bulges at both breech and muzzle

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It is a well know fact that 10s that have been bored out to 8 at approx .815 suffer from bulges at both breech and muzzle

Thanks for the info guys but now I am completely confused.

Do I use smaller wads or will this reduce the gas seal?

Is there a safe load that I can put through this gun without bulging the barrels?

Oh I forgot to mention it is choked 1/2 and 1/2

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It is a well know fact that 10s that have been bored out to 8 at approx .815 suffer from bulges at both breech and muzzle

It is a well known fact that any gun can suffer a bulge but never heard or read of wads being the cause.

 

It matters not the guage or bore and here is why, a wad can easily pass a full choke at full velocity. Remember common full chokes are approx .080" or more less than the bore diameter! Back bored barrels exaggerate this even more.

 

Instead of over worrying about the wads I personally would use Black powder but failing that would be considering magnum primers all the time! A good crimp is important too but if the cases are open topped that could be the real cause for poor ignition of smokeless powder and bulged barrels.

Guns are one way piston engines. The piston is not a problem in this situation, if it was it would be an issue for every other shotgun.

 

U.

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It is a well known fact that any gun can suffer a bulge but never heard or read of wads being the cause.

It matters not the guage or bore and here is why, a wad can easily pass a full choke at full velocity. Remember common full chokes are approx .080" or more less than the bore diameter! Back bored barrels exaggerate this even more.

Instead of over worrying about the wads I personally would use Black powder but failing that would be considering magnum primers all the time! A good crimp is important too but if the cases are open topped that could be the real cause for poor ignition of smokeless powder and bulged barrels.

Guns are one way piston engines. The piston is not a problem in this situation, if it was it would be an issue for every other shotgun.

U.

Thanks for that advice it now makes more sense to me that the powder needs proper ignition to prevent barrel damage.

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It is a well known fact that any gun can suffer a bulge but never heard or read of wads being the cause.

It matters not the guage or bore and here is why, a wad can easily pass a full choke at full velocity. Remember common full chokes are approx .080" or more less than the bore diameter! Back bored barrels exaggerate this even more.

Instead of over worrying about the wads I personally would use Black powder but failing that would be considering magnum primers all the time! A good crimp is important too but if the cases are open topped that could be the real cause for poor ignition of smokeless powder and bulged barrels.

Guns are one way piston engines. The piston is not a problem in this situation, if it was it would be an issue for every other shotgun.

U.

I don't wish to be rude but this is dangerously inaccurate rubbish!

 

I have seen umpteen 8 bore barrels bulged at both muzzle and chambers caused by oversize hard wads even thick card overpowder wads!

 

Full choke is far less than 80 thou of constriction and I don't know much about back boring but I can say i've never seen a back bored 8 bore?

 

I have fired umpteen cartridges through many 8 bores from 3 1/4" through to 4 1/4" cases in both lead and non toxic, using many different nitro powders and cartridges made from brass, aluminium, stainless steel, paper and plastic, I have never fired (or seen!) a crimp closed 8 bore cartridge! Factory and home loaded plastic cases are closed by a roll turnover and homeloaded solid metal cases are closed by sealant (or glue!) over an overshot card, and I have never experienced any issues with poor ignition using these closure methods with normal (as opposed to Magnum) primers.

 

Underdog I do not claim to be expert at anything but I am very experienced with shooting and reloading for 8 bore, the advice you are giving is wrong and could seriously hurt someone if they follow it!

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Thanks for the info guys but now I am completely confused.

Do I use smaller wads or will this reduce the gas seal?

Is there a safe load that I can put through this gun without bulging the barrels?

Oh I forgot to mention it is choked 1/2 and 1/2

I think you'll get a good enough gas seal with a smaller wad. I often use my 10 with 12 bore adapters. The 12 bore wad seems to work fine in the 10. Approx 45 thou between 10 and 12 bore. Only 20 thou between 8 and 9 bore.

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I don't wish to be rude but this is dangerously inaccurate rubbish!

 

I have seen umpteen 8 bore barrels bulged at both muzzle and chambers caused by oversize hard wads even thick card overpowder wads!

 

Full choke is far less than 80 thou of constriction and I don't know much about back boring but I can say i've never seen a back bored 8 bore?

 

I have fired umpteen cartridges through many 8 bores from 3 1/4" through to 4 1/4" cases in both lead and non toxic, using many different nitro powders and cartridges made from brass, aluminium, stainless steel, paper and plastic, I have never fired (or seen!) a crimp closed 8 bore cartridge! Factory and home loaded plastic cases are closed by a roll turnover and homeloaded solid metal cases are closed by sealant (or glue!) over an overshot card, and I have never experienced any issues with poor ignition using these closure methods with normal (as opposed to Magnum) primers.

 

Underdog I do not claim to be expert at anything but I am very experienced with shooting and reloading for 8 bore, the advice you are giving is wrong and could seriously hurt someone if they follow it!

Rubbish on my part maybe, I too have driven a Mercedes sports car. Does that mean I know every thing about Mercedes sports cars.

Traditional 12g= .729", traditional full choke for a 12g=.690", .040" a side or r, .080d.

Why don't 12g wads bulge full choked 12g barrels? Surely those wads are now too tight, no?

I still say due to the large bore diameter read low starting pressure and open topped metallic case, not so the roll crimped an ignition problem is far more a risk than from a wad.

Now if someone has put a stack of hard cards in to form a wad that is different! A stack of them is a very hard slug in the barrel but I don't recall the op asking about that!

Thanks for the case description, sounds just like mine.

 

U.

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Rubbish on my part maybe, I too have driven a Mercedes sports car. Does that mean I know every thing about Mercedes sports cars.

Traditional 12g= .729", traditional full choke for a 12g=.690", .040" a side or r, .080d.

Why don't 12g wads bulge full choked 12g barrels? Surely those wads are now too tight, no?

I still say due to the large bore diameter read low starting pressure and open topped metallic case, not so the roll crimped an ignition problem is far more a risk than from a wad.

Now if someone has put a stack of hard cards in to form a wad that is different! A stack of them is a very hard slug in the barrel but I don't recall the op asking about that!

Thanks for the case description, sounds just like mine.

U.

12 bore wads don't bulge a .729 barrel because the wads are made to fit a nominal .729 (12) bore........not a .719 bore!

 

Wads for an nominal 8 bore are made to fit an .835 bore.....when you have a bore of .815 you are trying to get a wad of .835 (or sometimes larger) through a 20 thou undersize bore plus maybe another 20/30 thou of choke.

 

try putting a .749 hard wad (20 thou oversize) through a nominal 12 bore (.729) barrel with 30thou of choke constriction (.699) and the chances are you will have a scrap barrel.

 

Are you now saying full choke in a 12 bore barrel is 40 thou? And not your original claim of 80 thou?

Edited by panoma1
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