Wind breaks to create warmer woods

[Scully]

We have some good woods on our rough shoot, and have thinned many out so the sun can get through to the ground to encourage cover to grow, but some smaller copses and spinneys have mature oaks in so thinning out isn't an option. Despite cutting brash and hedge trimmings which we have placed at appropriate places, and despite some grasses, nettles etc growing up through them and creating cover to a degree, it doesn't last the season, resulting in these places holding few birds as the wind really whistles through on occasion.

We have toyed with the idea of Canary grass to serve as wind breaks in these places and wondered if anyone has grown it in the past, and if so I would be interested in thoughts. Ta very much.

[henry_o]

Can you get any bales in there along perimeter? I've never had any experience with Canary grass so can't help with that one. Weve started planting laurels in good spots in a long term strategy for increased cover

[Scully]

Hadn't considered bales but I don't think the landowner would be up for that. Had forgotten about Laurel. We discussed it some time ago but can't recall why we decided against it; could have had something to do with stewardships perhaps. Will give it a google. Many thanks.

[Konnie]

you could try pampas grass, think you can get it in plugs that can be planted individually. Once established its just about permanent.

[Kes]

There is a product called 'paraweb' which is like a geo-textile but can be used as a windbreak as it comes in various widths - its not too expensive if limited to the windward side of the wood and kept under 4 feet high. You can get it in black and fix it to normal fence posts. It has the advantage of being 'instant' and can be removed when a laurel hadge has grown up. It will also be cattle proof as Laurel is poisonous to cattle and should therefore be planted behind the paraweb which can be replaced later by strands of wire.

I have used it and seen it used very effectively at garden centres to protect species of Acer which are particularly prone to suffer in cold winds.

[henry_o]

No probs scully. If it's not your land I'd be very careful re pampas grass and the like. If you needed to persuade the landowner then you could say you'd remove the bales if it became a problem. They are a quick fix and will soon blend in. In terms of adding natural cover you are doing him a favour improving the woodland if you planted any appropriate shrubs!

[scotslad]

Was going to say the exact same use some sort of wind break material attached to a fence.

 

Many landowners will be wary of allowing planting luarel or rhodies as both can be quite invasive if not managed and kept on top off, and bad to kill off once established.

 

RCG may work well but if u read the other thread on cover crops can be poisonus to stock at certian times of year, but could work. I''ve tried sowing it a few times not entirley succesfully but have been cutlivating the ground by hand so more down to a bad seed bed and paticualrly bad soil (very peaty and wet, so bad that Sitka Spruce dinae even grow)

Where it does grow well it should work but will still go flat if u gett a lot of frost/snow ours is just going flat now

[greenshank1]

Try and create hedges round the outside of them. If you use native hedge species you won't get invasive problems and can create a wind break , shelter and shade and add food through berries etc. The landowner can clip the field side if required and you can leave the inside / wood side to go wild.

 

You could try hawthorn and blackthorn , holly , hazel , and birch and juniper and at regular intervals scots pine, ash or oak . If its wet you could try willow, alder and elm.

 

Once you get them going you can also add snow berry and under plant this . Lots of the old estates planted this on the edges of their woods for holding birds.

 

You could also prune some of the lower branches of the old oaks as this will help natural ground flora .

 

Happy Planting

[Scully]

No probs scully. If it's not your land I'd be very careful re pampas grass and the like. If you needed to persuade the landowner then you could say you'd remove the bales if it became a problem. They are a quick fix and will soon blend in. In terms of adding natural cover you are doing him a favour improving the woodland if you planted any appropriate shrubs!

Landowner is as keen as mustard, but we have his parents to consider also, and it is still a working farm when all's said and done. Had a look at Laurel and although it would do the job, it isn't really in keeping with the landscape, but thanks for the advice anyhow.

Try and create hedges round the outside of them. If you use native hedge species you won't get invasive problems and can create a wind break , shelter and shade and add food through berries etc. The landowner can clip the field side if required and you can leave the inside / wood side to go wild.

 

You could try hawthorn and blackthorn , holly , hazel , and birch and juniper and at regular intervals scots pine, ash or oak . If its wet you could try willow, alder and elm.

 

Once you get them going you can also add snow berry and under plant this . Lots of the old estates planted this on the edges of their woods for holding birds.

 

You could also prune some of the lower branches of the old oaks as this will help natural ground flora .

 

Happy Planting

i agree about the hedges, and in time all will be double fenced and replaced, as generations of sheep have eaten the bottoms out so there is no cover there. We considered laying them, but they're too far gone to even do this. Earlier this year we planted over 2000 saplings consisting of Hawthorn, Blackthorn, Hazel and I forget what else, but I fear I may have died by the time they grow enough to offer the protection we need now.

Have also considered Willow as the edge of one wood is very wet, and willow is fast growing from all accounts, but I was thinking that perhaps some good grasses will last the season before collapsing and then seed itself for next season, but I don't know much about grasses to be honest. We don't really want anything permanent until the land comes out of the current stewardship scheme.

Pruning the lower branches to allow light in is probably acceptable though. Will see what he thinks. Thanks for the ideas all.

Edited January 3, 2015 by Scully

[islandgun]

Iv'e grown a fair bit of willow as windbreaks, it has a lot to recommend it, fast growing easy to propagate just take cuttings and stick them in the ground, cut down (coppiced) every year or two will thicken up. the coppiced cuttings can then be planted elsewhere and so on, can be planted very close 300mm centres, its makes a good cover crop for slower growing spp and provides a good habitat for invertebrates, can also be used for hurdles etc

[henry_o]

Just watch out for willows getting in land drains. Once established they are hard to be rid of.

[Scully]

Just watch out for willows getting in land drains. Once established they are hard to be rid of.

Good point. There may be one wood border we can't use it on then.

Edited January 4, 2015 by Scully

[stubby]

rather than just laying the brash down, turn it into a dead hedge, it'll loose around 12" in height per year, but can easily be topped up, it's a lot more sturdier than you think

 

[Scully]

Thanks Stubby, enjoyed the video. Have been up to rough shoot this morning and we've decided to stick Willow cuttings in a line among all the brash we have placed there ( as we laid it end to end to try and create a windbreak ) and see if the Willow will take. If it grows up through it we'll then bend the Willow so it intertwines with the brash and itself and then make a living windbreak. The edge of the wood in question is wet all year round so we'll see how it goes. As soon as the weather warms up we'll make a start, but are considering Canary grass also in the interim.

I love things like this, and can't wait to get going. With building another high seat and a BIG hide at the pond and continuing to thin out woods, it's going to get busy. No doubt it'll be left to the same three members....again.

Many thanks all.

[scotslad]

How far apart is the existing hedge? It'd amazing the gaps that can be filled by laying them, of course will depnd on the state and health of the existing hedge. That would be ur quickest way and put some winbreak material up in any bare patches, which would give u a decent break for next year. Or fence the outside of ur willow might let them grow a bit quicker if sheltered from the wind a bit.

the fencing wouldnae have to be owt fancy if it is only for a wind break and not stock proof

 

RCG is quite good but if site is exposed or high may not last all winter, but good for providing mini wind breaks flushing/nesting cover further in the wood

[stubby]

 

I love things like this, and can't wait to get going. With building another high seat

make sure you take some film of it and post it up, would love to build a couple in our woods from natural timber rather than bought in timber, might give me a heads up on how to make it

[islandgun]

Thanks Stubby, enjoyed the video. Have been up to rough shoot this morning and we've decided to stick Willow cuttings in a line among all the brash we have placed there ( as we laid it end to end to try and create a windbreak ) and see if the Willow will take. If it grows up through it we'll then bend the Willow so it intertwines with the brash and itself and then make a living windbreak. The edge of the wood in question is wet all year round so we'll see how it goes. As soon as the weather warms up we'll make a start, but are considering Canary grass also in the interim.

I love things like this, and can't wait to get going. With building another high seat and a BIG hide at the pond and continuing to thin out woods, it's going to get busy. No doubt it'll be left to the same three members....again.

Many thanks all.

As mentioned ive grown a lot of willow in fact i have supplied thousands of cuttings to people all over the Outer Hebrides, weed control is important, although a two foot cutting will grow through grass and weeds, you will get better results if you, 1, plant through black plastic, 2, spray off a patch prior to planting, 3, turn over a sod and plant through it, please feel free to pm if you want

[Scully]

make sure you take some film of it and post it up, would love to build a couple in our woods from natural timber rather than bought in timber, might give me a heads up on how to make it

I'm afraid ours is built from sawn timber; 4x2 and Masonite beams, but it blends in beautifully as we stained it green. The landowners Mother often climbs up it with her Grandaughter where they both sit and watch the sun go down.

 

As mentioned ive grown a lot of willow in fact i have supplied thousands of cuttings to people all over the Outer Hebrides, weed control is important, although a two foot cutting will grow through grass and weeds, you will get better results if you, 1, plant through black plastic, 2, spray off a patch prior to planting, 3, turn over a sod and plant through it, please feel free to pm if you want

 

Many thanks, island gun, some good advice there.

[Alycidon]

We have used chicory as a game cover in a similar situation, it works very well. Needs a nurse crop with it the first year and lasts about 4 years.

 

An option would be Laurels along the edges, then when they get up they can be laid and then they re root and thicken up very well. That will take a few years so a game strip of canary grass/chicory along the outside would be good,

 

A

Edited January 16, 2015 by Alycidon

[malkiserow]

Holly is a good windbreak in a hedge and grows faster than most imagine. We have places where it grows well with young bushes all around, we simply pull them up in winter and replant where we want them. Mix these in with other bushes and trees as mentioned above like hawthorn etc and you will create a long term solution. Avoid regular neat lines of planting that allows wind to blow through.... Plant them a bit more randomly as this will work better and look more natural.