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Hammergun advice required


ElvisThePelvis
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What sort of thing have you got in mind?

 

I run a 19th century, damascus barrelled, hammergun - had it out on clays yesterday as it happens - wouldn't part with it for the world.

 

Good points:

Different

Love the sound of damascus barrels

There's something more involved and sensory when you thumb the hammers back than with a modern gun... more anticipation!

 

Bad points:

Care needed when de-cocking

Not all are nitro-proofed

Can't use steel with damascus (not that I would!)

Limited on loads (I stick to a max 28g for game - usually paper cased) and often short chambers

It gets a lot of attention... so you have to be able to shoot!

 

Buy carefully... there are a lot out there (esp at auctions) where walls are quite thin and/or the guns have other issues.

Edited by SxS
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What sort of thing have you got in mind?

 

I run a 19th century, damascus barrelled, hammergun - had it out on clays yesterday as it happens - wouldn't part with it for the world.

 

Good points:

Different

Love the sound of damascus barrels

There's something more involved and sensory when you thumb the hammers back than with a modern gun... more anticipation!

 

Bad points:

Care needed when de-cocking

Not all are nitro-proofed

Can't use steel with damascus (not that I would!)

Limited on loads (I stick to a max 28g for game - usually paper cased) and often short chambers

It gets a lot of attention... so you have to be able to shoot!

 

Buy carefully... there are a lot out there (esp at auctions) where walls are quite thin and/or the guns have other issues.

Many thanks, I wouldn't use steel, I really dislike it even in modern guns. I had hull three crowns in mind to feed it with and am thinking of asking my friendly gunsmith to buy one for me as he knows what to look I presume..

 

What do you mean by 'care needed when decocking'?

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Mine gets Three Crowns for game (28g 6's) but 21g Comp X for clays (does the job but without causing unnecessary stress).

 

When de-cocking if you still have live round(s) you need to pull the (correct!) trigger whilst holding the hammer to stop it dropping too fast, barrels to the sky if the gun is closed (which most will be). Particular care needed if hands wet! If you can find a rare side-lever then you can open the gun whilst still loaded/hammers back, which then prevents a ND if you do slip or pull the wrong trigger, which isn't always the case with a top lever.

 

Oh yes, important, you probably want rebounding locks if it's your first hammer (all but the very earliest are however likely to be rebounding). There's additional complexity/ND risk with non-rebounding locks.

 

There are lots of scare stories about damascus barrels blowing up. I did my research and decided I was happy with the risk but be aware and make up your own mind.

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I think that reference was being made to 'de-cocking' and that it can be risky with cold or gloved hands. It has been known for the hammer to slip and of course the gun will fire. The truth of the matter is, they are no more dangerous than a hammerless gun, in fact they are probably safer ! People put too much faith in a safety catch on hammerless guns and I have seen them fire during the gun being slammed closed after loading. It may be possible to find a hammergun with a top lever that will allow the gun to open with the right hammer cocked, something to look for in your search for a gun. Of course, if the gun is an underlever hammergun, it can be opened, prior to decocking. For obvious reasons it is therefore a less risky exercise to decock an open gun.

Edited by Westley
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Hammer guns are great as mentioned care needed when decocking, A simple rule i was tought as a kid was pull the right trigger first ir you get it wrong, easy way to remenmber the front firdst triger is the right one to pull first asa in corect and the right hammer.

You can get baikal hammerguns they are made in the tula factopry in Russia and have hard chrome barrels safe in everyway for steel and the guns are strong and well made too, im going to get one in 16 bore one day for steel in a double gun.

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i will put my 2pence in..............go for a gun that has small hammers...

 

  1. it looks nicer...and more balanced to the eye
  2. after a while of using it you wont notice the hammers anymore
  3. take a needle file and sharpen up the chequering on the hammers

 

the old prince of wales used the refer to his purdey hammer guns as his "spaniel ears".....

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Good idea to get your knowledgeable friendly gunsmith in on the purchase if you don`t know much about hammerguns.

There is a lot of old tat on the market with drastically over inflated prices being asked.Plenty of reasonable buys too though if

you know what to look for.

Good luck with the search !

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Good idea to get your knowledgeable friendly gunsmith in on the purchase if you don`t know much about hammerguns.

There is a lot of old tat on the market with drastically over inflated prices being asked.Plenty of reasonable buys too though if

you know what to look for.

Good luck with the search !

 

 

matone is spot on...........dont rush into it...there are some real beauties out there for sensible prices....and dont forget...barrells can be lapped out (is that the correct wording) if they are a little pitted..back to new...

 

and the walnut stocks will be of English best quality...not Turkish imported stuff

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Good idea to get your knowledgeable friendly gunsmith in on the purchase if you don`t know much about hammerguns.

There is a lot of old tat on the market with drastically over inflated prices being asked.Plenty of reasonable buys too though if

you know what to look for.

Good luck with the search !

Good advice here, Farmed up guns made to look the part at a premium are often not all they seem, Buy carefully or take someone who knows the game with you.

A more modern Hammer gun like the Baikal is not just as fashionable but often a shrewd move compared to buying something you know to be very old to start with, Old english guns are very well made generaly, but age catches up with them if they have been used extensively, another thing to watch for is prof marks many belgian guns were sold marked up with English names on them, ironmongers names etc. these are not that obvious to spot to the untrained eye.

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You need a good sound gun with good wall thickness tight action and clean bores ,locks must be crisp .For a new starter go for a top lever with rebounding locks .I have shot hammerguns for many decades which I have had restored , barrels lapped and reproofed .

Feltwad

A Stand Of Hammerguns

P1010001-27_zps486afd2c.jpg

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You need a good sound gun with good wall thickness tight action and clean bores ,locks must be crisp .For a new starter go for a top lever with rebounding locks .I have shot hammerguns for many decades which I have had restored , barrels lapped and reproofed .

Feltwad

A Stand Of Hammerguns

P1010001-27_zps486afd2c.jpg

Very nice, all underlevers I see. I've got 3 hammer guns, 2 are damascus, 1 steel and sleeved. 1 is a side lever so no problem with opening if the right hammer is cocked

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You need a good sound gun with good wall thickness tight action and clean bores ,locks must be crisp .For a new starter go for a top lever with rebounding locks .I have shot hammerguns for many decades which I have had restored , barrels lapped and reproofed .

Feltwad

A Stand Of Hammerguns

P1010001-27_zps486afd2c.jpg

 

Nice looking bunch you have there.

My dad gave me his old hammer gun similar looking to these but unfortunately he had the original damascus removed and had it sleeved, kept the original rib.

Think the makes name on it is G Newnam (Portsmouth?)

I have shot it but it isnt my cup of tea so sits in my cabinet gathering dust!

Any ideas on value?

 

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Masmiffy.

Has you say your Newman hammer gun has been resleeved so it should be in good condition I would say it would be worth some where between £ 100 to £200 depending on condition . At the present hammerguns are at rock bottom price.

Feltwad

 

A 20 bore sxs by Smythe of Darlington

100_1374_zpsqnkb1dhp.jpg

 

Edited by Feltwad
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