.22 semi question??

[Hamster]

I've got an old Voere semi-auto - I've had it 40 years, it's accurate and never misses a beat - You can lock the breech and use it as a bolt action if you prefer.

 

Most problems with the 10/22 is down to poorly maintained and set up magazines.

 

Must be something to do with how they're shipped out from the factory. Not sure how anyone can correctly maintain or set up a magazine ?! They have a slot into which you push it until it clicks. They're just not good guns out of the box (some might be but there are always exceptions) that's why there is a huge mini industry of supplying replacement factory parts. I can't think of any other gun that's catered for in quite the same way.

[drut]

I have a 1961 Brno 581,very accurate for a semi(.75" or slightly less@50yds with RWS subs)and reliable BUT it took a lot of fiddling with magazine lips/recoil spring to get it that way.It will only cycle subs reliably if they are RWS or Winchester but accuracy with Winchester about 1.5" @ 50yds.Accurate with Eley but jams etc after a few rounds,trigger is heavy(3.5lb best I can get)and "gritty"compared to my CZ452.I like it for some reason but my CZ452 gives me more confidence and gets much more use.

[Rst1990]

 

Must be something to do with how they're shipped out from the factory. Not sure how anyone can correctly maintain or set up a magazine ?! They have a slot into which you push it until it clicks. They're just not good guns out of the box (some might be but there are always exceptions) that's why there is a huge mini industry of supplying replacement factory parts. I can't think of any other gun that's catered for in quite the same way.

Bizarrely you can set up and maintain the factory magazines. After a long time of using these magazines the coil inside loses its spring so to speak and causes jams.

Undo the screw to the side of the mag clean it all and light oil, then rewind the spring so you can feel a greater force.

Like brand new again, no more jams. Only takes minutes to do and will last a long period of time.

[remmy1100]

ive a new cz 512 use eley subsonic have no jams clean it after every outing (action only ) and find it as accurate as my bolt cz,myself and my mate both think its quieter than the bolt action as alot of gas goes to cycling and escapes with spent shell ,shoot multiple rabbits sitting together as dont have to cycle bolt was great on quadbike on stubbles as if you missed you can just keep tracking till it stops then make good the shot,i too looked at 10/22 but seems they needed a far bit fettling to shoot right ,a plus with the 512 semi is my mags out cz 452 fit straight in so ive plenty spares.If you were closer id gladly of let you try mine ,maybe someone near you may oblige,but my advise go for it good plinking fun too

[Hamster]

Bizarrely you can set up and maintain the factory magazines. After a long time of using these magazines the coil inside loses its spring so to speak and causes jams.

Undo the screw to the side of the mag clean it all and light oil, then rewind the spring so you can feel a greater force.

Like brand new again, no more jams. Only takes minutes to do and will last a long period of time.

 

But that still doesn't explain or excuse the fact many if not most misfeed from new.

[Rst1990]

 

But that still doesn't explain or excuse the fact many if not most misfeed from new.

I know it doesn't explain or excuse misfeeds from new.

I was just helping you out with abit of knowledge with a ruger 10/22 as you said...........Not sure how anyone can correctly maintain or set up a magazine ?!

[1066]

 

Must be something to do with how they're shipped out from the factory. Not sure how anyone can correctly maintain or set up a magazine ?! They have a slot into which you push it until it clicks. They're just not good guns out of the box (some might be but there are always exceptions) that's why there is a huge mini industry of supplying replacement factory parts. I can't think of any other gun that's catered for in quite the same way.

 

I'm not a 10/22 fan either, however a lot are used in club level gallery rifle competitions where reliability really comes ahead of accuracy - it's no good getting 8 perfect 10's then a jam in a timed shoot. For reliability, the mag needs to be cleaned and maintained with the correct spring preload tension.

 

Here a post grabbed from another forum on how to do it.

 

 

Servicing Ruger 10/22 Magazines

 

10/22 commonly encounter feeding problems due to accumulating fouling, deposits from waxed bullets, internal component wear, and/or improper factory assembly. I find they commonly develop sufficient interior fouling to start misfeeding after a few hundred rounds with wax-lubricated slugs and internal plastic-on-plastic wear (which looks much like galling). The Ruger 10/22 manual does not recommend disassembly, but does provide a magazine assembly illustration on p. 17. The seven parts (with Ruger nomenclature and my description / simplified terms) are:

 

Magazine Shell -- the plastic body of the magazine

Magazine Cap -- the plastic rear end panel you remove to open/disassemble the magazine

Magazine Throat -- the metal feed lips which hold the cartridge to be fed into the chamber

Magazine Rotor -- the plastic cartridge feed mechanism which rotates each cartridge into place for feeding

Magazine Rotor Spring -- the metal spring which provides the tension to rotate the rotor

Screw -- the metal ( 9/64" socket head cap) screw which holds the magazine together

Cap Nut -- the hexagonal-head nut which fits into a hexagonal recess on the magazine cap (which closes the rear of

the magazine) and the mates with the screw to hold the magazine together. It also retains the end of the spring. The cap nut can be rotated (once you learn the trick of backing off the screw) to adjust the spring tension on the rotor.

 

The magazine can be serviced (and improved) as follows:

 

1. Start by clearing the magazine of any cartridges. Jammed cartridges can usually be persuaded to feed with something similar to a matchstick or swizzle stick (something that will not mar the interior), and they can then be pushed forward out of the magazine lips.

 

2. Study the assembly so you know what is in the front and rear, and how the feed lips ("magazine throat") should look when properly assembled. It is strongly recommended you keep the 10/22 manual illustration of magazine assembly on p. 17, and/or a spare, factory-assembled magazine on hand for comparison during reassembly.

 

3. I use "Liquid Paper" (or other convenient source of fast-drying white paint), to put a small dot on the hexagonal spring retaining cap on the rear of the magazine at a spot showing its alignment to the hole used to align the metal feed lips ("magazine throat") with the hole on the rear panel ("magazine cap") on the plastic magazine shell. If you confuse easily, you could also put alignment marks on the points where the feed lips have a small boss or stud which aligns with holes in the front and rear of the magazine near the feed slot, but this should not be necessary.

 

4. Begin disassembly by backing out the socket head cap screw at the front using a 9/64" Allen wrench. It is usually in pretty tight, so you need to hold the mag firmly, possibly with gloves or a towel to protect your hand. When it has been loosened [about 2 turns -- almost out], push the screw back SLOWLY, to push out the six-sided cap nut on the other side of the mag. This is going to want to get away from you and spin around real fast to release spring tension, but if you grab it carefully with fingers or a wrench, you can count the number of turns it takes to relax the spring preload. The manual says 1-1/4 turns (this is impossible with a six-sided nut, so 1-1/3 is more realistic, but this feature allows some "tuning" of spring tension by the owner). Keep your finger on this piece to prevent loss.

 

5. Move the cap nut slightly back from its seat, carefully noting how the end of the spring fits into a tiny hole in the cap nut -- you will need to replace the spring into this hole upon reassembly. Set the cap nut aside in a safe place.

 

6. Remove the magazine end-cap -- the back-side of the magazine -- and set aside.

 

7. Pull out the magazine rotor, keeping track of how it is positioned so you can put it back later. Notice how the one long vane on the rotor is pressed up against the cartridge feed lips by spring tension. This is critical to reassembly. Remove the rotor spindle. Note where the rotor (and cartridges) produces wear marks on the inside of the magazine body. If you are using waz-lubricated cartridges, these wear marks will be coated with wax, which can be gently scraped off with a fingernail or some non-marring piece of wood or plastic.

 

8. Slide the cartridge feed lips out of the magazine shell. Note the larger locating stud engaging a partially obscured alignment hole at the front of the magazine shell and the smaller stud engaging an alignment hole at the rear of the magazine shell. Note the different shape of the feed lips front and back, and the different cut-out on the inside, and how it fits into the shell at an unusual angle. Set the feel lips aside for cleanup.

 

9. Clean up everything with your preferred cleaner (I use SimpleGreen and alcohol, but Hoppes and other solvents also work well, as long as you leave things clean). Dry everything off. You may coat the spring with a very light coat of oil if you wish, but keep oil off everything else. Oil in the mag itself just gathers dust and fouling.

 

10. Notice the wear pattern on the inside of the magazine shell. I find wax from bullet heads which needs to be scraped out, and plastic-on-plastic wear on the inside. I found the buffing wheel supplied with my Dremel tool to be a prefect fit to the inside of the magazine shell, and (using the mild red rouge abrasive supplied with the accessory kit) buffed the inside of the magazine with light, smooth, gentle strokes until it was a lot slicker than new. Do not press down too long or too hard, as heating up the plastic excessively could ruin the magazine. This polishing should give the wax and fouling less opportunity to collect. I also gently polished the long vane on the rotor, which was rubbing and galling the inside of the mag shells, the most likely cause of the jamming. When you are done, you will have to thoroughly clean out all residue from the rouge abrasive, so a second cleaning is in order. I finish up by doing a wipedown using a cloth dampened with alcohol.

 

11. Clean and inspect the feed lips for residue and sharp spots which could cause feed problems. Replace the cartridge feed lips back into the top of the mag shell. The feed lips fit into the magazine shell tilted to the right, with the large stud or boss fitting the alignment hole in the front of the mag shell and the more open end of the slot (with the rounded feed lip ramp) opening toward the forward portion of the mag shell.

 

12. If you completely removed the spring, make sure that the end of the spring with the right angle bend engages the hole in the rotor. The spring is the only thing I would consider lubricating in the magazine, but it really doesn't seem to need it. You should have no oil in the rest of the mag, as it will only collect grit and fouling.

 

13. Reinstall the rotor spindle and rotor/spring into the mag shell, with the more open end of the vanes forward and exposed spring facing to the rear. Remember how one of the vanes on the rotor is longer than the others? Make sure this vane will be held against the cartridge feed lips (by spring tension, once applied), and the ends of the rotor engage the shoulders at the front and back end of the magazine shell.

 

14. Put the rear end shell cap in place, verifying that the rotor spring sticks out through the hole in the center and that the small alignment stud on the cartridge feed lips engages the hole in the shell cap. Hold the rear end shell cap tight to the mag shell during reassembly.

 

15. Engage the protruding end of the rotor spring in the small hole in the shoulder of the spring retaining cap. Verify the full length of the spring beyond the bend enters the hole. It usually goes right in if aligned properly, but is a bit like threading a needle, but you cannot see the hole while you do this, so you need to know where it is. You can support the end of the spring (with a small screwdriver or needle nose pliers) when engaging the spring end in the cap hole, but this should not be necessary, but it takes a bit of fiddling to get it in.

 

16. Thread the screw through the front of the mag shell and rotor and start the screw into the cap nut about 1/2 turn (no more).

 

17. You need to tension the spring by winding the spring retaining cap in a clockwise direction. Start by taking up the excess slack in the spring (the long rotor vane should be pressed against the cartridge feed lips, visible through the feed lips slot). Note the spring retaining cap has six flat sides on it. Align the paint mark you made so you know how much preload you are using (this can be adjusted, if required). With all spring slack removed, turn the cap one full turn, and press it into place to hold it from springing back. The retaining screw tightens as you preload the spring, so it may not go a full turn if you have it too tight, but you can move it incrementally if you watch the alignment mark.)

 

18. Now BACK OFF the screw one full turn. Then, very carefully press the retaining screw so the six-sided spring retaining cap moves out enough to grab it. (You can use a wrench, or do this with strong fingernails.) Do not push it clear of the recess in the end cap until you have it under control, or the spring will cause it to unwind rapidly. Now add a second full turn of tension, then press the six-sided spring retaining cap carefully into its restrained "home" position in the end cap. You can now fully tighten the screw.

 

19. Check the follower tension: it should be sufficient to snap smartly back when you depress the follower with a drift or screwdriver. You can also compare tension to the still-assembled comparison magazine. If it is not correct, you can loosen the screw and re-tension it again. The 10/22 manual says 1-1/4 turns (impossible with a six-sided nut), Gunsmoke Engineering's post indicated tightening by 4 flats to get proper tension, while my experience is 1-1/2 to 2 complete turns, or 9 - 12 flats beyond the spring rest position (but I fire at a range which only allows five rounds loaded, so I almost never load 10 rounds). You can adjust to what works best for you.

 

[Hamster]

 

I'm not a 10/22 fan either, however a lot are used in club level gallery rifle competitions where reliability really comes ahead of accuracy - it's no good getting 8 perfect 10's then a jam in a timed shoot. For reliability, the mag needs to be cleaned and maintained with the correct spring preload tension.

 

Here a post grabbed from another forum on how to do it.

 

 

Servicing Ruger 10/22 Magazines

 

10/22 commonly encounter feeding problems due to accumulating fouling, deposits from waxed bullets, internal component wear, and/or improper factory assembly. I find they commonly develop sufficient interior fouling to start misfeeding after a few hundred rounds with wax-lubricated slugs and internal plastic-on-plastic wear (which looks much like galling). The Ruger 10/22 manual does not recommend disassembly, but does provide a magazine assembly illustration on p. 17. The seven parts (with Ruger nomenclature and my description / simplified terms) are:

 

Magazine Shell -- the plastic body of the magazine

Magazine Cap -- the plastic rear end panel you remove to open/disassemble the magazine

Magazine Throat -- the metal feed lips which hold the cartridge to be fed into the chamber

Magazine Rotor -- the plastic cartridge feed mechanism which rotates each cartridge into place for feeding

Magazine Rotor Spring -- the metal spring which provides the tension to rotate the rotor

Screw -- the metal ( 9/64" socket head cap) screw which holds the magazine together

Cap Nut -- the hexagonal-head nut which fits into a hexagonal recess on the magazine cap (which closes the rear of

the magazine) and the mates with the screw to hold the magazine together. It also retains the end of the spring. The cap nut can be rotated (once you learn the trick of backing off the screw) to adjust the spring tension on the rotor.

 

The magazine can be serviced (and improved) as follows:

 

1. Start by clearing the magazine of any cartridges. Jammed cartridges can usually be persuaded to feed with something similar to a matchstick or swizzle stick (something that will not mar the interior), and they can then be pushed forward out of the magazine lips.

 

2. Study the assembly so you know what is in the front and rear, and how the feed lips ("magazine throat") should look when properly assembled. It is strongly recommended you keep the 10/22 manual illustration of magazine assembly on p. 17, and/or a spare, factory-assembled magazine on hand for comparison during reassembly.

 

3. I use "Liquid Paper" (or other convenient source of fast-drying white paint), to put a small dot on the hexagonal spring retaining cap on the rear of the magazine at a spot showing its alignment to the hole used to align the metal feed lips ("magazine throat") with the hole on the rear panel ("magazine cap") on the plastic magazine shell. If you confuse easily, you could also put alignment marks on the points where the feed lips have a small boss or stud which aligns with holes in the front and rear of the magazine near the feed slot, but this should not be necessary.

 

4. Begin disassembly by backing out the socket head cap screw at the front using a 9/64" Allen wrench. It is usually in pretty tight, so you need to hold the mag firmly, possibly with gloves or a towel to protect your hand. When it has been loosened [about 2 turns -- almost out], push the screw back SLOWLY, to push out the six-sided cap nut on the other side of the mag. This is going to want to get away from you and spin around real fast to release spring tension, but if you grab it carefully with fingers or a wrench, you can count the number of turns it takes to relax the spring preload. The manual says 1-1/4 turns (this is impossible with a six-sided nut, so 1-1/3 is more realistic, but this feature allows some "tuning" of spring tension by the owner). Keep your finger on this piece to prevent loss.

 

5. Move the cap nut slightly back from its seat, carefully noting how the end of the spring fits into a tiny hole in the cap nut -- you will need to replace the spring into this hole upon reassembly. Set the cap nut aside in a safe place.

 

6. Remove the magazine end-cap -- the back-side of the magazine -- and set aside.

 

7. Pull out the magazine rotor, keeping track of how it is positioned so you can put it back later. Notice how the one long vane on the rotor is pressed up against the cartridge feed lips by spring tension. This is critical to reassembly. Remove the rotor spindle. Note where the rotor (and cartridges) produces wear marks on the inside of the magazine body. If you are using waz-lubricated cartridges, these wear marks will be coated with wax, which can be gently scraped off with a fingernail or some non-marring piece of wood or plastic.

 

8. Slide the cartridge feed lips out of the magazine shell. Note the larger locating stud engaging a partially obscured alignment hole at the front of the magazine shell and the smaller stud engaging an alignment hole at the rear of the magazine shell. Note the different shape of the feed lips front and back, and the different cut-out on the inside, and how it fits into the shell at an unusual angle. Set the feel lips aside for cleanup.

 

9. Clean up everything with your preferred cleaner (I use SimpleGreen and alcohol, but Hoppes and other solvents also work well, as long as you leave things clean). Dry everything off. You may coat the spring with a very light coat of oil if you wish, but keep oil off everything else. Oil in the mag itself just gathers dust and fouling.

 

10. Notice the wear pattern on the inside of the magazine shell. I find wax from bullet heads which needs to be scraped out, and plastic-on-plastic wear on the inside. I found the buffing wheel supplied with my Dremel tool to be a prefect fit to the inside of the magazine shell, and (using the mild red rouge abrasive supplied with the accessory kit) buffed the inside of the magazine with light, smooth, gentle strokes until it was a lot slicker than new. Do not press down too long or too hard, as heating up the plastic excessively could ruin the magazine. This polishing should give the wax and fouling less opportunity to collect. I also gently polished the long vane on the rotor, which was rubbing and galling the inside of the mag shells, the most likely cause of the jamming. When you are done, you will have to thoroughly clean out all residue from the rouge abrasive, so a second cleaning is in order. I finish up by doing a wipedown using a cloth dampened with alcohol.

 

11. Clean and inspect the feed lips for residue and sharp spots which could cause feed problems. Replace the cartridge feed lips back into the top of the mag shell. The feed lips fit into the magazine shell tilted to the right, with the large stud or boss fitting the alignment hole in the front of the mag shell and the more open end of the slot (with the rounded feed lip ramp) opening toward the forward portion of the mag shell.

 

12. If you completely removed the spring, make sure that the end of the spring with the right angle bend engages the hole in the rotor. The spring is the only thing I would consider lubricating in the magazine, but it really doesn't seem to need it. You should have no oil in the rest of the mag, as it will only collect grit and fouling.

 

13. Reinstall the rotor spindle and rotor/spring into the mag shell, with the more open end of the vanes forward and exposed spring facing to the rear. Remember how one of the vanes on the rotor is longer than the others? Make sure this vane will be held against the cartridge feed lips (by spring tension, once applied), and the ends of the rotor engage the shoulders at the front and back end of the magazine shell.

 

14. Put the rear end shell cap in place, verifying that the rotor spring sticks out through the hole in the center and that the small alignment stud on the cartridge feed lips engages the hole in the shell cap. Hold the rear end shell cap tight to the mag shell during reassembly.

 

15. Engage the protruding end of the rotor spring in the small hole in the shoulder of the spring retaining cap. Verify the full length of the spring beyond the bend enters the hole. It usually goes right in if aligned properly, but is a bit like threading a needle, but you cannot see the hole while you do this, so you need to know where it is. You can support the end of the spring (with a small screwdriver or needle nose pliers) when engaging the spring end in the cap hole, but this should not be necessary, but it takes a bit of fiddling to get it in.

 

16. Thread the screw through the front of the mag shell and rotor and start the screw into the cap nut about 1/2 turn (no more).

 

17. You need to tension the spring by winding the spring retaining cap in a clockwise direction. Start by taking up the excess slack in the spring (the long rotor vane should be pressed against the cartridge feed lips, visible through the feed lips slot). Note the spring retaining cap has six flat sides on it. Align the paint mark you made so you know how much preload you are using (this can be adjusted, if required). With all spring slack removed, turn the cap one full turn, and press it into place to hold it from springing back. The retaining screw tightens as you preload the spring, so it may not go a full turn if you have it too tight, but you can move it incrementally if you watch the alignment mark.)

 

18. Now BACK OFF the screw one full turn. Then, very carefully press the retaining screw so the six-sided spring retaining cap moves out enough to grab it. (You can use a wrench, or do this with strong fingernails.) Do not push it clear of the recess in the end cap until you have it under control, or the spring will cause it to unwind rapidly. Now add a second full turn of tension, then press the six-sided spring retaining cap carefully into its restrained "home" position in the end cap. You can now fully tighten the screw.

 

19. Check the follower tension: it should be sufficient to snap smartly back when you depress the follower with a drift or screwdriver. You can also compare tension to the still-assembled comparison magazine. If it is not correct, you can loosen the screw and re-tension it again. The 10/22 manual says 1-1/4 turns (impossible with a six-sided nut), Gunsmoke Engineering's post indicated tightening by 4 flats to get proper tension, while my experience is 1-1/2 to 2 complete turns, or 9 - 12 flats beyond the spring rest position (but I fire at a range which only allows five rounds loaded, so I almost never load 10 rounds). You can adjust to what works best for you.

 

 

Or alternatively one can buy a gun that feeds well.

[1066]

 

Or alternatively one can buy a gun that feeds well.

 

Couldn't agree more

[spandit]

Like an Anschutz

[team tractor]

I had a southern gun company v22 and at first it jammed . I thought I was going to have to sell it.

Then I learned a few things and it shot sweet for 1000s of rounds.

Keeping it clean and lubed up.

I cleaned it full strip every 5/600 rounds max and lubed the slide . Never ever let me down then

[bazzab]

I like the tinkering etc side of things. To make a gun work well from not so well is something that very much appeals to me.

 

The things I've built / tweaked etc that go on to be a great bits of kit are great.

 

 

 

OK then, this is a all fascinating, to advance it somewhat,

 

The same rifle, barrel, shooter, ammo, conditions etc. Shots taken at a steady relaxed pace.....

 

What, in people's opinions is the more accurate etc and why??

[1066]

Something else concerning semi-autos thats not always obvious and was highlighted at the range last week. We had two guys sharing a tatical looking rifle, maybe a S&W 15/22? One chap had no jproblems at all, the other, almost every other shot was a feed failure. The second chap was quite tall and the stock was far too short for him, it was hardly touching his shoulder. We lengthened the stock and he had no more trouble.

 

And another thought - back in the olden days, .22 pistols were reliable - They used the same straight blowback action, almost always used subsonic ammunition and cycled perfectly. My thought on this are that is was easier to slip the slide off a pistol and give it a brush out, you could easily see if it was full of crud.

 

Almost all of the available .22 semi-auto rifles are set up for standard velocity .22 ammunition (1070- 1150ish) Here, in the UK, many semi-autos are used with sub-sonic rounds 1020-1060ish) with a moderator. A lighter recoil spring would ensure better reliability.

[1066]

I like the tinkering etc side of things. To make a gun work well from not so well is something that very much appeals to me.

 

The things I've built / tweaked etc that go on to be a great bits of kit are great.

 

 

 

OK then, this is a all fascinating, to advance it somewhat,

 

The same rifle, barrel, shooter, ammo, conditions etc. Shots taken at a steady relaxed pace.....

 

What, in people's opinions is the more accurate etc and why??

 

I'm also a maker/tweaker/tinkerer

 

What are you asking? What is more accurate a bolt or a semi and why?

 

You normally need to do a lot of work to a semi-auto .22 to get it to approach the accuracy of a good bolt rifle.

 

Just assuming you had the same good quality barrel with the same accuracy potential.

 

The bolt rifle will often have, or at least could have, a match, semi-match or tighter chamber - semi-autos are often chambered slack to aid feeding and extraction.

 

The bolt rifle will more often have a far better trigger - The semi-auto MUST not go full auto, it must catch and hold the sear as the block is blown back.

 

A good fitting bolt action (or Martini type single shot) fully supports the cartridge head with almost zero headspace. A semi-auto blow back bolt is loose by design.

 

A semi-auto will often have a ramp cut into the chamber to aid feeding leaving a small part of the case unsupported when firing.

 

A semi-auto will often scrape the bullet as is strips it off the magazine and slams it into the breech.

 

With a bolt action you can choose the most accurate ammunition for the rifle - with a semi-auto it's no good having an extremely accurate round that won't cycle the action.

 

That's just a few things to consider for a start.

[Vince Green]

Come down the range with me and my 10/22 with a brick of 500 minimags or blazers. If you get one jam in the 500 I will be amazed. I use it most weeks for instructing beginners because the club 10/22s do jam all the time.

 

Its down to regular cleaning, not using greasy bullets and dry lube spray (plus avoiding aftermarket mags)

Edited January 2, 2017 by Vince Green

[1066]

Quite agree Vince - Both the Minimags and Blazers have a bit more poke than the usual subsonic target ammunition like Eley Club, Sport etc. and certainly a fair bit more that subsonic HP ammunition.

[defender]

I was using my 10/22 today I had mini mags, blazer and cci subsonic hollow points.

It was going well till i started using the mini mags, they were like candles, loads of wax, magazines started to miss feed after I used those.

strangely enough didn't have any problems with the subsonic hp had 2 empties in 450 rounds that didn't clear and ended up in front of the bolt

and the few miss feeds were caused by lots of wax in the magazines from the mini mags.

[bazzab]

Wow what a great reply

 

 

I am aware that a bolt action will always be more accurate. My mind just wondered if everything was the same bar the action. Would there be a huge difference?

 

Not so.much for same hole grouping aware that probably wouldn't happen. More for day to day vermin control type stuff?

[Bitfitter]

I swapped out my anschutz 1417 for a shortened (12.5") browning buckmark I use this for work every day it's total length is 27" plus moderator it is every bit as accurate as my anschutz was and rarely has a jam it's as dirty as hell but keeps on working the buckmark action is a blowback design and the rifle is basically a lengthened version of the very popular and reliable pistol

Edited January 3, 2017 by Bitfitter

[1066]

I swapped out my anschutz 1417 for a shortened (12.5") browning buckmark I use this for work every day it's total length is 27" plus moderator it is every bit as accurate as my anschutz was and rarely has a jam it's as dirty as hell but keeps on working the buckmark action is a blowback design and the rifle is basically a lengthened version of the very popular and reliable pistol

 

Years ago I had a very nice Browning Match 150 UIT Target pistol, just recently I had a go with a Buckmark, loading the magazines was like visiting an old friend.

[Vince Green]

I was using my 10/22 today I had mini mags, blazer and cci subsonic hollow points.

It was going well till i started using the mini mags, they were like candles, loads of wax, magazines started to miss feed after I used those.

strangely enough didn't have any problems with the subsonic hp had 2 empties in 450 rounds that didn't clear and ended up in front of the bolt

and the few miss feeds were caused by lots of wax in the magazines from the mini mags.

CCI minimags are copper coated, not greasy at all

[Kalahari]

I used the Browning SA22 in Africa for years and it was pretty reliable. (Never had a jam or failure to feed in spite of all the dust)

 

David.

 

PS. Did use HV though.

Edited January 4, 2017 by Kalahari

[defender]

CCI minimags are copper coated, not greasy at all

The ones I've got have a thick coat of wax on the bullet end that flaked off, it was so thick I could flake it off with my finger nail.

I'll have to take some pictures

[Vince Green]

The ones I've got have a thick coat of wax on the bullet end that flaked off, it was so thick I could flake it off with my finger nail.

I'll have to take some pictures

these are the ones we use

 

http://www.cci-ammunition.com/products/detail.aspx?use=1&loadNo=0030

[defender]

these are the ones we use

 

http://www.cci-ammunition.com/products/detail.aspx?use=1&loadNo=0030

Yup 100 in a plastic box, perhaps it's the batch I got but I've got 50 left and I'm going to de wax them before I use them