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Garrett turbo re-build


ditchman
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the only way im going to get it out is the way you suggested.....what scuppered me was the very very high tensile bolts that are used...im just waiting for my mate to turn up tomorrow with a good quality extractor....then we will get started....need to take it easy as i am not going to bre4ak the casting....the rebuild pack @ £38.00 delivered next day is on hold....quite a good pack as it contains all new studs and bolts and ALL the internals 'cept the shaft and turbines...........

 

i will let you no the state of play tomorrow.....................

Not CAT bolts are they ditchman

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Not CAT bolts are they ditchman

 

 

cat bolts have their threads rolled in not cut.....and have a slightly different profile i think................

 

 

and no they arnt CAT bolts they are bloody *&&%%$£££%$%^&())(*&^^%$£££.............bolts.............. :oops:

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Came acroos on bolt like that in a Jag head bolt,christ it hurt when my knuckles hit the dash panel,

It was about 10 degrees below in the street,I ran up and down for 5 minutes before I stopped swearing..

 

 

tell you what does hurt and make you curse...and that is hitting your thumb or finger twice in the same min wiv an ammer....christ that hurts..

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cat bolts have their threads rolled in not cut.....and have a slightly different profile i think................

 

 

and no they arnt CAT bolts they are bloody *&&%%$£££%$%^&())(*&^^%$£££.............bolts.............. :oops:

And some of them big ones need to be when they been cranked up with a multiplier :lol:

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tell you what does hurt and make you curse...and that is hitting your thumb or finger twice in the same min wiv an ammer....christ that hurts..

Not that I wish to mark my card as clumsy,,but put some felt on the shed,damn birds keep pecking it off..So all day my thumb was pounded to hell holding 3/4" Clout nails..

Appeptly named I thought,blood blisters to provd it,,Ouch...

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Now looking for the Norfolk resident with one thumb much larger than the other!

 

Come on get on with the broken bolt extraction, I'm keen to see how you approach it, especially as you are reluctant to heat the area.

 

 

if the extractor is not man enuff...............oxy/acty it is.................dont want to do it but there you go.................

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well it beat me ......sort of.. :hmm: ...first pic is of the problem drilling out the broken bolt........what i did in the end was to drill the bolt out as much as i dare then with the threads left i screwed in a stud (from and old broken turbo manifold) and gave it some extra help and brazed it solid as a rock......cut the stud to length ............

 

this turbo works (i rekon) at a fairly low temperature.......petrol turbos...under max load run at 1050degs plus....this is desiel and not under any large towing loads the melting point of braize is 900 plus deg's....

 

 

the cassett is kept cool by the oil pressure and the cassett does not have a heavy weight on it....it will only have the aluminium shoud/chamber on the other end....

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the stud i put in is at the bottom of the cassett....the 4 bolts hold the cassett in position on the exhaust chamber with the aid of two collars (which you can see in the previous post)..................

 

anyway its not the outcome i wanted but i rekon it will be ok....so i will order up the rebuild kit now ..................

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The

 

The remainder of those threads look well frozen in there ditchman.

 

 

i drilled it out...christ it was hard.....the bolt was harder than the casting....then i dropped the stud in and melted braize into it...........im sure it will be fine .................but thinking about it...as the casting took the heat alright....IF I CAN FIND A COUPLE OF NICKLE RODS or 10-12% nickle disimalar rods i will drill the top of the hole (after ive taken the stud out) with a 16mm bit to chamfer it....then pre-heat the casting to cherry red and fill it with nickle base....then heat the casting up and let it cool for an hour before i gring off flat.

 

trouble is the welding suppys wont split a pack of rods...and the small pack is £150 a pack....so i will have to go a blagging........

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One of the most interesting threads I have read in some time and we are only talking bolt extraction. :yes:

 

 

gtlad you are enjoying it..................a lesson in how not to do something.. :lol: ....if i can get hold of 2 nickle rods i will be a lot happier..... :yes:

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i drilled it out...christ it was hard.....the bolt was harder than the casting....then i dropped the stud in and melted braize into it...........im sure it will be fine .................but thinking about it...as the casting took the heat alright....IF I CAN FIND A COUPLE OF NICKLE RODS or 10-12% nickle disimalar rods i will drill the top of the hole (after ive taken the stud out) with a 16mm bit to chamfer it....then pre-heat the casting to cherry red and fill it with nickle base....then heat the casting up and let it cool for an hour before i gring off flat.

 

trouble is the welding suppys wont split a pack of rods...and the small pack is £150 a pack....so i will have to go a blagging........

 

What EXACTLY do you need, PM me and I will see if we have anything suitable.

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its drilled out now anyway.................dont know anything about spark erosion

Sorry,I thought you may have come across it during your Landrover work. Its the best way for redeeming broken exhaust studs on motorcycle cylinder heads,,Suzuki GS series in particular. It was also the only answer when trying to shift sheared off studs on rusty quarry scale stone saws. Its the future !

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Used to do it at work.

Copper rods for electrode,submerged under liquid so it doesnt set it alight.lol.

You can make your own if you know what you are doing,its not rocket science,probably see it on Youtube..jumps a gap between the bottom and sides of electrode,takes some time,it is slow..

You would use electrode about 3/4 Thousands of an inch smaller.

Does avery good job though..

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