Building a shed/logstore.

[islandgun]

On 24/02/2021 at 20:53, harrycatcat1 said:

My summer project is to replace an old 8 x 6 shed with a wood store attached to it. The shed is starting to rot and has a big hole in the back where my terrier chewed through whilst trying to get into the shed when hedgehogs were nesting in there. The lean to wood store has started leaking water as the felt needs replacing.

 

What I am proposing is a wooden structure 2.1m wide x 3.8m long x 2.1m high at the front with a flat roof sloping down to 2m high at the back. The roof would be covered with Firestone rubber sheet and guttering to take away the water.

 

The present shed is 12mm x 120mm shiplap and I dont suppose it's too bad but one of the "tongues" in one area has curled out presumably with the weather.

 

What would you clad the structure in?

Choices are tanillised:-

 

12mm x 120mm shiplap

 

17mm x 120mm shiplap

 

22mm x 120mm loglap

 

Or have you got another suggestion?

 

Do you have sarking ?  thats treated rough sawn boards 150mm x 25mm x 4.8m,  great cladding butted up with the join covered with a half board, see photo of main building [not porch]

[mel b3]

8 hours ago, islandgun said:

Do you have sarking ?  thats treated rough sawn boards 150mm x 25mm x 4.8m,  great cladding butted up with the join covered with a half board, see photo of main building [not porch]

That looks very cool 👍.

[harrycatcat1]

10 hours ago, wishy735 said:

Ok, for the shed concrete base the exact size you want. For the log store use gravel to stand your logs on. Log store can be felting battern (2x1) with a osb roof felted. Shed pressure treated timber (4x4) for floor joists 3/4" osb on top. Framing 4x2 ( doesn't have to be pressure treated) 3/4 osb nailed on to Framing. (Helps to keep it square) when errectd. Tyvek house wrap, then felting battern (2x1) vertical. Then nail your choice of cladding onto those batterns. Shed good for 30 years plus.biggest tip I can give you is to make shed to fit your base, if you make your base oversize water will sit on it and cause problems even with pressure treated timber.

Thank you for your advice, I have decided on a rubber roof sooner than felt, good advice regarding the shed base👍👍

[JKD]

Lots of good advice given,,,, I'd only add, to use treated timber for all of the construction, and ply instead of OSB [Easier to screw things to and stick the roof to 😉]

[harrycatcat1]

Pictures of the structure to be replaced.

 

[harrycatcat1]

[ianspire]

Speak to the guys at Chesterfield sheds on Storforth Lane, everything  made to order and great quality

[harrycatcat1]

26 minutes ago, ianspire said:

Speak to the guys at Chesterfield sheds on Storforth Lane, everything  made to order and great quality

I will have a look thanks 👍

[harrycatcat1]

[Walker570]

If that wall is yours I would run a leanto shed all the way down with part of it open at the front to allow logs to dry.  Use the wall as the back wall of the shed.  two sheets of 8x4 covered in roof felt for the roof makes and 8x4 shed and an 8x4 log store. A couple of pallets for the floor of the log store. 

[harrycatcat1]

16 hours ago, Walker570 said:

If that wall is yours I would run a leanto shed all the way down with part of it open at the front to allow logs to dry.  Use the wall as the back wall of the shed.  two sheets of 8x4 covered in roof felt for the roof makes and 8x4 shed and an 8x4 log store. A couple of pallets for the floor of the log store. 

That pebbledash wall is next doors prefabricated garage. I have been preparing the base/frame today and will put pictures up later👍👍

[harrycatcat1]

I am not a joiner and never have been so it's help that I need please.

I found some 4" x 2" thats been down my garden all winter and I have built a frame for the base. The frame is 7' x 12' in size. The concrete area is for my "shed" area and the rest is for wood storage. I will board the partition between the two. 

Question, how do I fix the uprights that I had planned to be 3" x 2"?

 

[harrycatcat1]

Different view.

[Yellow Bear]

Mayhap a layer of DPC where the frame touches the floor.

[harrycatcat1]

38 minutes ago, Yellow Bear said:

Mayhap a layer of DPC where the frame touches the floor.

On the concrete? None of the wood will be touching the floor/soil once I've scraped it away. I was rushing today to get the frame done as they reckon it's going to lash it down tomorrow 👍👍👍

[Yellow Bear]

8 minutes ago, harrycatcat1 said:

On the concrete?

Yup

[Walker570]

Always a good move to stop the damp getting in. Money well spent.   Otherwise looking good.

[JKD]

1 hour ago, harrycatcat1 said:

I am not a joiner and never have been so it's help that I need please.

I found some 4" x 2" thats been down my garden all winter and I have built a frame for the base. The frame is 7' x 12' in size. The concrete area is for my "shed" area and the rest is for wood storage. I will board the partition between the two. 

Question, how do I fix the uprights that I had planned to be 3" x 2"?

 

 

Sorry to say, but you're going to have to add more timber to the 'floor area/s'. 400mm centres are the norm, or 600mm centres if using 18mm + thickness boards/planks. Too much spacing will allow the floor to deflect/flex, and you will be cursing a tad soon after 🤬 Also, may be best to do that first, then fix your floor, then fix the walls to that. If I was anywhere near enough, I'd gladly offer a few hours to help out, but I'm too far I'm afraid 😕

Now the walls. You know how to build a timber stud wall I assume ? Same method really, but you need the uprights to suit the cladding you're going to use.

If possible, construct each stud/panel, then lift into place and fix. This is where, if you do the floor first, you have a nice clear, level work area 😉

[harrycatcat1]

1 hour ago, Yellow Bear said:

Yup

👍👍

1 hour ago, JKD said:

 

Sorry to say, but you're going to have to add more timber to the 'floor area/s'. 400mm centres are the norm, or 600mm centres if using 18mm + thickness boards/planks. Too much spacing will allow the floor to deflect/flex, and you will be cursing a tad soon after 🤬 Also, may be best to do that first, then fix your floor, then fix the walls to that. If I was anywhere near enough, I'd gladly offer a few hours to help out, but I'm too far I'm afraid 😕

Now the walls. You know how to build a timber stud wall I assume ? Same method really, but you need the uprights to suit the cladding you're going to use.

If possible, construct each stud/panel, then lift into place and fix. This is where, if you do the floor first, you have a nice clear, level work area 😉

Thanks 👍👍

[harrycatcat1]

On 25/03/2021 at 20:49, harrycatcat1 said:

👍👍

Thanks 👍👍

On my old shed where the front shiplap meets the side shiplap there is a square piece of wood from top to bottom about half inch to three quarters of an inch square.

Is this necessary or is it just for aesthetics? 🤔 

[harrycatcat1]

This is what I mean.

 

[Walker570]

Not ne3cessary but does make it look tidy.

[harrycatcat1]

9 minutes ago, Walker570 said:

Not ne3cessary but does make it look tidy.

I think that I agree 👍 

[B725]

Put these interlocking grids down then sit your new shed on them it will keep the base dry and water will not wick upwards about £100 for what your building. 

[harrycatcat1]

2 hours ago, B725 said:

Put these interlocking grids down then sit your new shed on them it will keep the base dry and water will not wick upwards about £100 for what your building. 

I will have a look thanks 👍