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Barrel lump solder


PeterHenry
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11 hours ago, ditchman said:

looks like a smith has added solder to tighten up the bight ??.....

someone better qualified would give a better answer maybe 

 

10 hours ago, scarecrow243 said:

give it a scrape with a screwdriver etc and see if its soft if it is solder  as ditchman said its been used to tighten up the bite

 

10 hours ago, Gas seal said:

Hi yes it looks like it’s built up with soldier. I had an old hammer gun like that a friend re soldered it for me. It looks scratched compared to the front one.

 

9 hours ago, Gordon R said:

Front lump looks solidly fixed to the barrels - no danger of it breaking away. I agree that someone has dropped some solder on it to take up play. Is there any play between the barrels and action. It might be a solid lock up on just the back lump. It just looks unsightly.

 

1 hour ago, London Best said:

The lumps are not soldered to the barrel flats. 
They are generally dovetailed between the barrels, then soldered. 
If you remove the extractors you should be able to see this. 
Dunno what solder is doing in that position on the bite?

 

Thanks for the replies - I've just noticed that when looking at the photos, it looks like it's a blob of something, but when you have the barrels in front of you that isn't the case - it's an absence / void that look to have been smoothed over.

When I was cleaning it yesterday, I noticed what looked like a blob of hardened greese in the area inside the blue circle, so I grabbed a toothpick to remove it - but it wasn't geese, and quite quickly a hole started to appear, and so I stopped. I took the view that if a toothpick could easily remove it, it probably wasn't doing a great deal anyway, but still...

The gun locks up fine and is solid - it also has a third bite. No movement where there shouldn't be. I've had the gun for years and it's not had any problems -  just a bit confused.

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It looks very much like the extractor stop pin hole has broken through to the bottom bite has been cut or deepened when fitting the lever work . It could well have been " filled" with solder to disguise it at some point.

I have seen this before a few times  and wouldn't worry about it as long as every thing else is OK .

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37 minutes ago, Gunman said:

It looks very much like the extractor stop pin hole has broken through to the bottom bite has been cut or deepened when fitting the lever work . It could well have been " filled" with solder to disguise it at some point.

I have seen this before a few times  and wouldn't worry about it as long as every thing else is OK .

OK, great - so nothing to worry about in and of itself? Nothing to worry about structural or re water ingress?

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20 minutes ago, PeterHenry said:

OK, great - so nothing to worry about in and of itself? Nothing to worry about structural or re water ingress?

A bit of grease soulsd keep any water out or a squirt of dewatering oil if its been very wet .Structurally , its probobly been like it is from new .

If it really concerns you then it would be possible to either get the break through filled with solder , which will require quite bit of heat  or use a cold casting repair epoxy then carefully re-drill the stop pin hole with as small a drill as possible , If the front bite is deep enough a thin plate could be fitted across the bite and soldered into place , but any soldering will need  getting enough heat into such a small and awkward place  and  there is the risk of loosening the tail and top ribs .

Any  of these would be a cosmetic  and could come out at some future time .Personally I would make sure there is no more loose or flaking solder and leave as is .

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1 hour ago, Gunman said:

A bit of grease soulsd keep any water out or a squirt of dewatering oil if its been very wet .Structurally , its probobly been like it is from new .

If it really concerns you then it would be possible to either get the break through filled with solder , which will require quite bit of heat  or use a cold casting repair epoxy then carefully re-drill the stop pin hole with as small a drill as possible , If the front bite is deep enough a thin plate could be fitted across the bite and soldered into place , but any soldering will need  getting enough heat into such a small and awkward place  and  there is the risk of loosening the tail and top ribs .

Any  of these would be a cosmetic  and could come out at some future time .Personally I would make sure there is no more loose or flaking solder and leave as is .

OK - great advice thank you. Like you say, I'll dab some geese on it and leave well alone.

1 hour ago, old'un said:

As gunman said, looks like a brake through, looking at the picture is there a srew on the top of the lump?

There is - what does the screw do btw?

20221119_204732.jpg

Edited by PeterHenry
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32 minutes ago, PeterHenry said:

OK - great advice thank you. Like you say, I'll dab some geese on it and leave well alone.

There is - what does the screw do btw?

20221119_204732.jpg

That would not worry me the slightest, again as gunman said it looks like someone as filed the bite a bit deep and broken through the hole that the screw fits in.

As a matter of interest have you tried undoing that screw to see if is actually doing anything, like holding the ejectors in? Or is there another screw we cannot see in the picture that is doing that job?

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1 hour ago, PeterHenry said:

OK - great advice thank you. Like you say, I'll dab some geese on it and leave well alone.

There is - what does the screw do btw?

20221119_204732.jpg

Its the extractor stop pin . It stops the extractors from coming out to far when you eject . By the look of the extractor legs the gun is fitted with either a Baker or Deeley box ejector system so the pin in this case servers a dual function of actually stopping the extractors from coming out but also stops them from hitting the cam nose on ejection .

Edited by Gunman
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2 hours ago, old'un said:

That would not worry me the slightest, again as gunman said it looks like someone as filed the bite a bit deep and broken through the hole that the screw fits in.

As a matter of interest have you tried undoing that screw to see if is actually doing anything, like holding the ejectors in? Or is there another screw we cannot see in the picture that is doing that job?

👍 I have not dared remove the screw - i'll go about as far as removing the spool from an ariel style centerpin, but any more involved than that and I get flashbacks to the look of disapproval on A elderly watch makers face when went back to him the week after buying a 1940's Swiss watch, having lost the minute hand by removing the movement from the case to get a better look at it.....

1 hour ago, Gunman said:

Its the extractor stop pin . It stops the extractors from coming out to far when you eject . By the look of the extractor legs the gun is fitted with either a Baker or Deeley box ejector system so the pin in this case servers a dual function of actually stopping the extractors from coming out but also stops them from hitting the cam nose on ejection .

OK, that's good to know thanks - very appreciative 

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On 20/11/2022 at 10:38, Gunman said:

It looks very much like the extractor stop pin hole has broken through to the bottom bite has been cut or deepened when fitting the lever work . It could well have been " filled" with solder to disguise it at some point.

I have seen this before a few times  and wouldn't worry about it as long as every thing else is OK .

Beat me to it. My thoughts exactly. Hope you're keeping well mate. 

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