Jump to content

Stuck REM Choke


impala59
 Share

Recommended Posts

I’m sure it’s probably been asked before, but any tips on removing a stuck Rem choke? 
I bought a Premier Skeet 1187 for very little at an auction, obviously expecting some problems. I was proved right but corrected the functioning issues in a few minutes. A bent latch prevented the floor plate release and an excessive crimp on the mag tube caused a distortion which slowed and partially jammed the piston ring. The usual gunk, carbon, grease, unburnt powder etc pointed to a poor performing, neglected shotgun. It has cleaned up well and all mechanical elements are now correct. 
My problem is the choke tube currently installed, it will not budge, I tried a little heat (heat gun not flame) but to no avail. I have left it muzzle up with penetrating oil in the hope that it will help to break the rust/carbon seal. Any advice would be gratefully received 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

depends on what's holding the choke in, gunk or rust, try this...get an empty tin-can (bake beans can size) mix 60-40 oil and turps, get the end of the barrel fairly hot and dunk into the can and leave for an hour, you may need to repeat this until the choke starts to move.

If its rust and depending on how bad it is, that's a different ball game.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Red696 said:

Could you not use a gas soldering torch internally on the choke to get enough heat in without risking damage to the bluing on the barrel?

This will only expand the choke onto the barrel. You need to expand the barrel off the choke. When warming the barrel stop before the choke itself gets warm or they will both expand together 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 minutes ago, RCB56 said:

This will only expand the choke onto the barrel. You need to expand the barrel off the choke. When warming the barrel stop before the choke itself gets warm or they will both expand together 

I wouldn’t be trying remove it when hot, it is to break the ‘seal’ between barrel and choke.  It may take several cycles

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 12/10/2023 at 10:46, Red696 said:

Could you not use a gas soldering torch internally on the choke to get enough heat in without risking damage to the bluing on the barrel?

NO, not unless you REALLY know what you are doing  !   I bought a 'scrapper' 300 Beretta which has a 303 multi choked barrel on it. The end of the barrel is permanently marked with a blueing effect, due to some clown using heat. I have released several 'stuck' chokes ( none mine) by standing the muzzle in diesel oil for a week. As also mentioned on here, put the choke key in a vice and slide the barrel down over it. It does give more leverage.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

19 minutes ago, Westley said:

NO, not unless you REALLY know what you are doing  !   I bought a 'scrapper' 300 Beretta which has a 303 multi choked barrel on it. The end of the barrel is permanently marked with a blueing effect, due to some clown using heat. I have released several 'stuck' chokes ( none mine) by standing the muzzle in diesel oil for a week. As also mentioned on here, put the choke key in a vice and slide the barrel down over it. It does give more leverage.


That’s the key..  knowing what you’re doing.  Enough heat to count, not enough to do harm, and as many cycles as is required.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well I got it out, eventually! I tried all the immersions to no avail. I then tried heat, a hot air gun first, again, without success. I am converting this gun to a dedicated slug gun, the full choke just had to go and I decided that I would have to risk the finish and lump it if it was spoiled. To be honest, if it had been a 28" or more I would have just cut the rem choke out! I proceeded with the torch and tried everything I could think of. I broke two choke keys with no movement. A mechanic friend suggested trying plus gas as a thinner solvent/release agent, it may penetrate better. still no joy. I had melted the plastic bead but the blue was holding up. I decided that I would have to sacrifice the choke and with the barrel in a wooden made to measure clamp, (to protect the integrity of the barrel tube and rib) I hammered a shallow reamer into the choke. Gripping the reamer with large mole grips, I tentatively put my weight into it. A slight creak and an eighth of an inch of movement! repeating the Plus Gas and reamer and 2 hours later success! Surprise surprise, traces of green thread lock (possibly loctite 270) on the threads. Why would someone buy a multichoke gun and then threadlock a choke in? Second surprise, the full choke survived the ordeal as did the blueing, a bit of cleaning up and I have installed my cylinder choke and now ready to move on to the next mod, fitting a scope rail and speedload ramp.

Thanks again for all suggestions, I am sure that in most cases they would have worked, this was just a very hard nut to crack!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
 Share

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...