Stubborn nuts

[Pedro]

In an effort to undo the top nut on one of the forks on the CB500, I've ended up rounding it off and am now stuck as to what to do.

 

I put a search into google for "stubborn nuts" and it came up with something called Irwin Grip Nuts. They seem a pretty good bit of kit and look as though they'll sort the problem out.

 

Has anybody tried them or could recommend anything else- I don't have access to red and black, so that's out of the running.

 

A very peeved and embarassed Pedro

[pin]

Grind some new flats on to the nut with a mini angle grinder, soak the nut in release agent / wd40 then use oversized mole grips for plnty of tourqe.

 

Failing that use heat on the nut and repeat the mole grips

[al4x]

if you can get a set of Stilsons on they will undo them but you'll probably need new nuts to go back on

[alexm]

What kind of socket are you using on the nuts?

 

I find that sometimes a good 6 point impact socket will turn a head that a normal 12 point socket will slip round on. The impact sockets have convex sides too so they grip the middle of the flats and not the corners.

 

[Pedro]

Cheers Gents. I've just tried the grinding new flats method, (with a Dremmel that I only bought at the weekend -spooky ), but the mole grips still end up slipping round - and they're on bloody tight too!

 

I haven't got any Stilsons, but I go past a Machine Mart in Ilford on the way into work this pm, so I'll pop in there. Any thoughts on those Grip Nuts al4x , 'cos Machine Mart do them too?

 

The nuts beyond hope now, so it'll have to be a new one anyway.

 

P.

[bob300w]

Have you tried giving the tops of the nuts a couple of good smacks with a hammer? This will loosen most nuts of this type.

[al4x]

I'd not bother with grip nuts just a pair of stilsons as they effectively cut into the nut and grip that way, plus you can get a scaffold bar over the end if you need more persuasion, though this may not be a good idea in your case

[dusk2dawn]

As suggested, I would buy a cheapo cooks gas blowtorch and dribble plenty of wd40 down into the threads, heat up just the nut from the side and when good and glowing use a set of stilsons, failing that I have used a sharp 6"cold chisle and a club "ammer, tapping the nut off by cutting into the nut....... just make sure your tapping it the right way to undo it.. dooohh. :blink:

 

Good luck anyway

 

D2D

[starlight32]

I have some guys on site at the mo doing some Bolt tensioning on a similar problem.

 

They are travelling right past you down the A12 this afternoon when they have finished my job. They'll sort the problem quickly as the Hydrotight machine can release tension up to 1400nm.

 

Only problem is they charge £2300.00 per day- Do you want me to book them?:blink:?

[Cosd]

With this problem I use a plumbers wrench. These are designed to grip harder as you turn. So the more you try to turn the tighter the grip.....

 

hope that doesn't sound too confusing

[Gordon R]

Find the socket nearest to the right size, but slightly smaller than the nut. Tap it on and undo with a breaker bar or ratchet.

[Cosd]

or just buy a nut splitter, this will literally split the nut in two, takes seconds....

 

Google it (nut splitter) depending how big the nut is will cost from around £3.50 onwards

[Gordon R]

It's not a normal nut. Is it the one which screws into the tubes (fork legs)?

[ME]

"stubborn nuts"

 

call me Finbarr Saunders but..... :blink:

[bunnybasher100]

use the broken stud method. take a washer and weld over the nut use the big mudgard repair ones, then take a bigger nut and weld that to the washer the heat created during the welding helps as well, this method works for me and use a lot.

[Gordon R]

Is it alloy - in which case the welding is out?

[tinbum71]

Either hot or cold should work, you're gonna need to replace the nuts anyway now, so consider "extreme prejudice" measures. West of Chelmsford. Is that Great Baddow/Galleywood way?

[Hunter]

Is it alloy - in which case the welding is out?

 

 

Not if you have an AC-DC tig welder or Mig welder running Alloy wire. Been there done that.

 

I have in the past, welded bars onto nuts and bolts for use a leverage. But you need to make a really strong weld (usually mig) and make sure you clean all the zink/chrome off with the angle grinder. Several lines of weld on 150amps and give it a good pull/push. As said above the heat from welding can help, but usually heat expands metal which in theory makes it tighter.. so this only works for heating up thread lock/corrosion etc.

 

As for bar, try to use something sturdy and 2 foot or more in length. 12mm bar should be sturdy enough. Once you have 'cracked' the nut/bolt, you will need to grind the bar off if you cannot turn it all the way round due to bars/mirrors etc, and finish the job with mole grips.

 

When welding on vehicles, always disconect the battery or you will cause damage to the electronics systems. :blink:

Edited February 27, 2008 by Hunter

[tosspot]

Try covering offending article with grease/mud ect and sell the bike

 

then buy a nice Husky TE510

 

problem solved

[Pedro]

Stilsons did the trick , cheers for all the replies gents.

 

Very annoying episode - in my efforts to save an hours labour charge, I've ended up spending virtually the same amount on tools and a new top nut

 

P.