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PIGEON MAGNET REFERENCE


Cosd
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I know there have been many threads on how good pigeon magnets really are. Like anything

in the art of pigeon shooting there are days when things work and days that they won't; Some people

swear by them and others, myself for one, have never had a good day with a magnet.

 

This thread is not for discussion but for tried and tested methods; Lets not report a one off good day,

lets put down details of a method that has pulled them in on a number of occasions, a method you would

definitely use again given a similar circumstance.

 

To help newbies, non believers and those who haven't given up just yet, I thought to try and set up this

thread for people to use as the PIGEON MAGNET REFERENCE.

 

For those willing to share the secrets of your success, if you can follow the same format as the example below.

If I anyone thinks the content of the format is wrong or can suggest anything else to add, send me a PM and I can

change it accordingly.

 

If you want to add a post to this thread, please copy and paste the example below so that this reference is nice and easy to follow.

 

EXAMPLE

 

Crop:

Wheat stubble

 

Decoy formation:

12 shell type decoys in V formation

 

Magnet position:

10 yards behind and to one side of the decoys

 

Birds used on magnet:

Silosocks

 

Additional tip/s:

I would only use this on dry days, I always use a couple of crow decoys 20 yards outside the pattern.

Edited by Cosd
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  • 11 months later...

This is what we used on our 351 day and on a couple of other times where we shot 216 and 94

 

Crop:

Swathed Rape

 

Decoy formation:

15 dead bird decoys in 2 small groups about 20 yards apart and about 25 yards infront of the hide and 2 bouncers (1 in the field behind the hide and one to the left hand side of the pattern.

 

Magnet position:

inbetween the the 2 groups about 15 yards from the hide

 

Birds used on magnet:

dead birds

 

Additional tip/s:

I have found that the magnet works better on layed crops of swathed crops with the dead lifting above the crop and dropping again and also on a windy day, the birds dont seem to like it on non windy days.

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Being a beginer at pigeon shooting, I would actualy find this very usefull!! :lol:

I have tried 2 shoot over standig barley twice in the last week and had no luck!!! :good:

I have 1 magnet, 2 hypa flaps, 2 silosocks 12 unflocked shells, 2 full bodied unflocked :yes:

If someone could tell me a good patern 2 use now and another when is stuble that would be great!! :lol:

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Crop:

Wheat stubble

 

Decoy formation

u shape using dead birds

Magnet position:

replace magnet with flapper (electric)

 

Birds used on magnet:

dead birds

 

Additional tip/s:

i swore with a magnet up until about 3 years ago when i purchased a flapper and have since had great results on stubble,drillings etc.When on higher crops like wheat i just mount it on a pole about a foot above the crop and in winter lower it accordingly i also put a couple of floaters on each side of the pattern about 30 yads apart. Ihave put the magnet out in some cases further down the field and found that it sometimes pushes the birds back up towards my pattern but this depends on wind direction and wind speed etc,i think with the magnet it all goes down to personel choice plus the flappers have become very expesive for what they are :yes:

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Never having used a magnet I take it they're not that good around harvest time. Is movement not as important at this time of year? Or do you tend to use bouncers for this?

 

 

Movement is important in most decoying situations, especially if you're set up away from flightlines. I have shot several 100+ and 200+ bags with magnets on wheat and rape stubbles, though i've never had much success over barley stubble as i've rarely shot on one.

But don't underestimate the pulling power of a magnet, used in the right way they could help shoot a lot more birds. I'd never go decoying without one in the truck.

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I always start with a magnet , but how well it works depends on the day ,crop and weather.

 

Before starting to use your magnet in the field dull the arms. The matt paint jobs are not usually enough in sunny weather. I use camo tape.

 

Personally I find magnets work best over a dark back ground of rape or bare earth. On light stubbles they are more hit or miss. I have had some great bags using them over stubble , but also had days when I convert them to bouncers. I suspect if the pigeons have been shot up over magnets in the area the dark arms over pale stubble put them off.

 

Magnet decoys – If possible I use dead birds. Winged decoys can be ok to start off with , but I change to dead birds as soon as possible. I have sometimes used full bodied decoys ( closed wing ) with silosocks on them just to get started.

 

Think about using your magnet to attract the attention of passing birds , but arrange your decoys so the incoming birds switch attention to them as they come closer.

 

Always be prepared to play about with positioning your magnet. Closer if the birds are shying off at long range.

 

On a sunny day place the magnet in the shade of a tree if its possible. On dull days place it in an obvious place. Be aware of the changing position of the sun and changes in weather \ wind direction and a just the decoys or hide accordingly.

 

Wear a face mask and hat unless you shooting from a hide in deep shade.

 

STUBBLE

Do not worry about starting too early in the day. 3 pm is plenty early enough in my area and the best sport is often after tea time.

 

15 shell decoys in half moon directing the birds to the hide.

 

Usually have a bouncer at the outside edge of the decoy pattern.

 

As you shoot add dead birds . Important to pick up any outlying dead birds as they can cause birds to settle out of range . Pick up dead birds once they start to fill the half moon landing area.

 

Keep the hide pale. If it’s a dark leaf pattern add straw to it .

 

 

WINTER RAPE

 

Watch the birds and flightlines as often you have to have the “just right position “ in the field and set up under a flightline if possible. I like to set up early as the action often dies shortly after midday on my farms .

 

Look for an area of short rape that is where the birds will want to feed , the decoys will stand out better and it will be easy to find shot birds.

 

Use plenty of decoys. I usually use 30+ shell \ H&H rubber decoys with a dozen in silosocks. If possible set in a half moon , but it will depend on the area of short rape , but always leave a clear area about 15-20 yards out for the pigeons to land in. Place 2-3 bouncers on the outer decoy pattern " wing ". If there is a bare field behind you think about placing a few decoys on it. It will attract the attention of distant passing birds behind you which may then come closer and see your main decoy\magnet set up.

 

Set up a couple of lofters in trees 15-40 yards away to the side if their any high trees. I sometimes use fence posts. But do not put lofters directly above your head. There is a tendency for you to hesitate on incoming birds as you will not be sure if they are going to drop into the decoys or land above your head.

 

Place the magnet 10-15 yards in front of the hide , but be prepared to move it closer if the birds are dropping short or flaring wide. If there is a gap in the hedge place a magnet so it can be seen by birds flying across the field behind you. Might be worth using 2 magnets.

 

As in summer use dead birds on the magnet and to add to the decoy pattern. And pick up dead birds more than 40 yards out. Keep the decoy pattern tidy- pick up any belly up dead birds.

 

Match your hide to the hedge background , by adding dead grass or foliage. I have a lot of holly hedges and a dark camo net is just right for them. As long as you keep still there is no need for a solid hide . Lots of holes will help you see the birds coming. If your dog is likely to be seen cover it with a snipers neck scaff.

 

Search the surounding hedgerows and trees with your dog ( provided pheasants are not going to be a problem ) after you have finnished a shoot. On a 100 + day you can often add 10 or more birds to the bag.

Edited by anser2
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Being a beginer at pigeon shooting, I would actualy find this very usefull!! ???

I have tried 2 shoot over standig barley twice in the last week and had no luck!!! :oops:

I have 1 magnet, 2 hypa flaps, 2 silosocks 12 unflocked shells, 2 full bodied unflocked :lol:

If someone could tell me a good patern 2 use now and another when is stuble that would be great!! :hmm:

 

 

You have PM ???

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Never having used a magnet I take it they're not that good around harvest time. Is movement not as important at this time of year? Or do you tend to use bouncers for this?

 

 

Some people use them all the time and will tell you it is a waste of time going out without one, but I very rarely use one unless it is a windy day and the birds are not going to one spot.

 

They do work on harvested crops and on drilled crops but not always.

 

I use bouncers or a flapper more than the magnet

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Hi anser2, i went out pigeon watching on monday afternoon at 2.30 and the stubble was blue, with still birds coming in. So on the tuesday morning we decided to get to field at 10.00, after setting up there was just a handful of birds coming in, but by late afternoon it was just as if some body had rang the dinner bell non stop action :good:

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Since I bought my Magnet six years ago my yearly totals have went up by 25%.I use it all the time on swathed rape and all stubble shooting.

 

On drilling I only use dead birds and sillo socks and only bring out the magnet if they are proving difficult to decoy.

 

I use dead birds on my magnet all the time.

 

Hendo

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I am glad you got to terms with the pigeons Yeoman. I usualy find late afternoon best this time of year. can be a different story in mid winter though. When stooting on rape I often find best to get on the fields at sunrise and the sport dries up by 2.00pm.

Edited by anser2
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  • 3 years later...

any updates on this thread as its a couple of years old and there is bound to be more answers etc?

I have recently made a magnet and am a newbie to decoying (from july)

is it possible to show some drawing etc of where to place magnets, flappers and bouncers etc?

 

http://forums.pigeonwatch.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/153348-setting-a-pigeon-decoy-pattern/

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