JohnfromUK

ASI are the UK distributor. http://www.a-s-i.co.uk/ They are very helpful, but my guess is that it will be 'uneconomic'. Good luck.

Ex Govt small key safes fitted with Manifoil locks come up from time to time. Whilst not cheap, security is 1st class. http://www.modlimited.co.uk/buy/product_info.php?products_id=16009 (No connection with seller)

A friend of mine had some 'unknown' cartridges sourced (cheap) for him by his brother. They were exactly as described above - and left the gun filthy as well. Go for a reputable make (any of those well known mentioned in this thread) - and try some 21gramme for clays - both cheaper and many people find pleasanter to use

+1 Many years ago I took my gun to a friends (warm centrally heated house) in a sleeve from our rather cold unheated house - and left it in the sleeve overnight (in his cabinet). Rust was already starting by next morning. A lesson learned. I think 'socks' are fine because they are fully breathable, but I don't use them myself.

You don't say what you will be using them for (edit - posts crossed, but advice stands good I think!) , but from the shot sizes mentioned I guess some game (No 5) and some clays (No 7.5). All makes you have mentioned are fine. I would choose 28 gramme or lower for the 7.5s for clays - even 21 gramme if you have a light gun. I would choose 28 or 30 gramme for game - and I always use felt wads (and I think many estates request/require this) for game. I personally also use felt wads for clays, but can also see the case for plastic. Remember also that for 2 3/4 chambers, you can use shorter, so 65mm, 67.5mm and 70mm are all OK. My own present 'stock' is Hull Comp X 21g felt 7.5 for clays (not expensive) and Hull Imperial Game 26 g or 28 g 5 or 6 felt for game - all used in a lightish s/s either Spanish or English so I always buy 2 1/2 compatible cartridges

The marking CHOKE indicates that at the time of proof there was some degree of choke in that barrel. It may have been removed or reduced at a later date. I'm also not sure whether the CHOKE marking was done at the original 13/1 proof, or the later .729 (12) proof, but I suspect the former.

It is stunning work, and wonderfully skilful. But will these guns ever get used, or just sit is a collectors cabinet? I suspect the latter - which is really rather a shame ......... - so left with very mixed feelings overall.

Full details here; http://www.a-s-i.co.uk/PRODUCT%20PORTFOLIO/AYA/AYA%20MASTER%20Frameset.htm

I was started on a 28 - and I think its a good choice - especially with light loads. I have a small double .410 - and even now with over 40 years of practice - its a hard gun to kill (clays) with! The 28 (which was borrowed from a friend of my father's) gave me a much greater confidence. I see a .410 as a garden/vermin gun - but a 28 as a valid (small person's) game gun.

I have single (inertia and mechanical, selective and non selective) and double triggers on both s/s and o/u. Never had a problem with any of them. Certain of the earlier English and Spanish single triggers got a bad name, but I have been told that the main reason was people going in to 'fix' them, when often all was needed was a good clean and lubricate. I have also heard that the English 'best' with single triggers (e.g. Boss etc) need to be serviced/adjusted by a knowledgeable specialist such as the manufacturer or English gun specialist - and should not be taken to any local gunshop for attention by their local man I suspect this is true.

It depends on you - and to some extent your size/build. Very long barrels don't suit short people particularly well. I have guns in 27", 28" and 30". Overall I prefer 28" on both o/u and s/s - used both on clays and occasional game.

You are absolutely right. 12 bore is .729. My mistake, but a lot of older English guns are proved at .719, known as a 13/1. My mistake and you are right at .729

Could well be right. It is usual (though there are exceptions) that the right barrel has less choke. Remember that choke 'by measurement' is only an approximation since it depends on the main bore diameter (most measurement based choke approximations assume the main bore is .719") and other factors (forcing cone shape, choke profile etc.) and guns will also pattern differently with different brands of cartridge.

+1 for Ian Coley, though I'm sure Carl Bloxham would also be first class.

+1 on not over oiling. Also clean off old oil and grease (taking the dirt and grit with it) before applying a very little clean fresh oil/grease. Parker Hale make some well respected products and I have used them for 40 years. I use Young's 303 as a bore cleaner, Express oil as a lubricating oil and Rangoon oil as a preservative oil (for metals). A (very) little smear of a general purpose (e.g. Halfords smallest available container) grease on the hinge pin etc., and about once a year a rub over the woodwork with Phillips walnut oil. These are just examples - and there are many different brands, probably all much as good as any other

Skimin & Wood, 31 Loveday St. B'ham 1920-23, 52 Cliveland St 1923-28, 10,12,14 Vesey St 1929-56, Little Shadwell St 1957-63, 3 Price St 1964-74. F.J. Wiseman succ to bus circa 1964/65. All above information from British Gunmakers, Vol 2 by Nigel Brown. According to 'Boothroyd's Directory' "Skimin & Wood were mainly gunmakers to the trade, but they also specialised in pigeon guns - and had interests in Australia and New Zealand" Mr Skimin was also connected with (owned?) Holloway & Co, Holloway & Naughton who shared the same addresses at Vesey St, Little Shadwell St and Price St. The Vessey St address appears to have been Holloway and Naughtons premises (a four storey building with 16 workshops and a 120 ft test range) called the Vesey Street Gun Works. Information again from Boothroyd and Brown

If you lengthen the chambers, this renders the gun 'out of proof'. Whilst not illegal to 'own it' - it is illegal to sell it - and in the unlikely event of an accident, insurance is not likely to cover it.

I believe some were made by Batista Rizzini (probably the O/U guns) in Italy - who I think are still in business and possibly make for William Powell. As far as I know - good sound guns. see http://www.sportinggun.co.uk/guns/165295/John_MacNab_Supreme_shotgun_review.html Some side by sides were made by Ugartechea (Spain and used to make for Parker Hale) - see http://www.sportinggun.co.uk/guns/165845/John_MacNab_Woodcock_shotgun_review.html Some were also by Sabatti (Italy again) I think some others (higher end and very possibly the hammer guns) were made by Famars/Abbiattico and Salvinelli - who are out of business I believe. They made a 'Castore' self cocking hammer gun - and guesswork says the McNab may be that rebadged. I have heard very mixed things about Famars reliability overall (look on a few of the USA based forums as Famars sold in the USA), though nothing particularly for that model. I suspect parts would be 'difficult' and rumour suggests you may need some sooner or later.

BENJAMIN EDWARDS (Late William Lee), 48 1/2 Newton Street, B'ham (1887-1903), also at 283 (poss misprint?) Newton St c1894. and 28 1/2 Newton St c1897. Recorded as BENJAMIN EDWARDS Jnr, 50 1/2 Newton Street c1901 and 1904 - 24 BENJAMIN EDWARDS (representatives) s.a. 1925-28 and BENJ EDWARDS s.a. 1929-36 All information from British Gunmakers Vol 2 by Nigel Brown

I don't want to hijack the thread, but actually, dBs of attenuation subtracted from the initial value to give the attenuated value just like that; See this article http://www.coopersafety.com/noisereduction.aspx from which I quote "For example, if you were exposed to 80db of noise but were wearing earplugs with an NRR of 29, your actual noise exposure would only be 51dB."

Umm .... According to their page (linked above), shooting can produce up to 150dB These attenuate by 30 dB (about 28-35 is par for a set of ear defenders, so that is believable) - which leaves 120 dB But they say damage starts at 85 dB ...... I suspect the 150 dB is questionable. Assuming they do give 30 dB, the next question should be whether they are comfortable. Personally, I think over ear protection gives best protection IF YOU CAN WEAR IT, but I'm one of those who can't wear over ear protectors. I use Emtec in ear protection after trying many others, and these are better than the Napier Pro 10s I used before - which were good. I find 'in ear' types need to be very carefully chosen and personally find most very uncomfortable

"I am not convinced that 410s are very much use in encouraging young clay shooters - I appreciate that others may well not share that view." Agreed. a 28 bore is a much better bet.

Guns proved in Spain do carry a date code for the proof year - and I suspect B2 is that code. You can Google and get the codes such as at http://www.shotguns.se/html/spain.html

Try before you buy. Light guns don't suit everyone, and often feel great in the shop, but the recoil can be a problem after a few cartridges in the field. Recoil is something that affects some people much more than others, and how it affects people is also very dependant on the fit. For example, some people get bruised cheeks, others bruised fingers, others a sore shoulder - and some a headache! Someone else may shoot the same gun and cartridge combination with no problem at all. You don't say how many cartridges in a day, but I shoot perhaps 25 or 30 cartridges through a fairly light s/s 12 bore on a pheasant day and find 30g cartridges are just fine. If I shoot clays I use 21g cartridges and could happily shoot a lot of these. On that basis, I think you could try an Ultralight, try a few different loads and see if it 'works for you'. It will be quite 'lively'. If, however, you intend to shoot a couple of hundred 32g cartridges on a pheasant day, I don't think I would even bother to try an Ultralight!

No need to cringe(!) - I use 21g on clays because they are effective, cheap and lighter on me and the (light side by side) gun. I like them. On a pheasant day I use 30g equally happily and neither I or the gun suffers. I agree that if 28g hurts, something is wrong - probably gun fit related.