Mk1 Man Posted April 6, 2013 Report Share Posted April 6, 2013 (edited) ooh glad someone mentioned about tow bar electrics, just checked mine out as I have a hitch but dont tow, one brake light wasn't working luckily it was just a duff connection. The warning light thing is a bit stupid really, its not really an indication of an actual problem which should be checked for just another excuse to get more money. Not necessarily...the new checks are there because systems such as stability control, ABS etc are commonplace on most modern vehicles...so by having them as a testable MOT item it ensures that decent vehicle owners are maintaining their cars properly. A warning light coming on is indication of a fault......if there wasn't a problem....the light wouldn't come on would it? Edited April 6, 2013 by Mk1 Man Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave-G Posted April 6, 2013 Report Share Posted April 6, 2013 What is a headlight main warning light? Is this the blue one that tells me I am on full beam??? yup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil82 Posted April 6, 2013 Report Share Posted April 6, 2013 couple of things I`d like to mention,, on old school braking systems there was a reducer to lower the pressure to the rear wheels to stop them locking up, when ABS is fitted this does the job for you, so when you brake hard the rears are more likely to lock before you reach full braking power on the front reducing overall stopping power, as to the towbar electrics the function test only applies to 13 pin electrics, on 7 pin (if fitted) systems you only check if its secure on the car (and the cover does not count, even though you could argue that its a safety feature as it secures the plug in the socket) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveK Posted April 6, 2013 Report Share Posted April 6, 2013 oh good mine looks like a bingo board only need 1 more and its a full house You drive a house? I heard it was a shed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bruno22rf Posted April 6, 2013 Report Share Posted April 6, 2013 Mk1 Man-I have a Shogun that has displayed a red engine warning light twice-on both occasions I had the car diagnostics checked and no faults were found in the memory.If you have warning lights for flat tyres (on cars with run flats) a red light normally tells you--even after the tyre is replaced the light remains on-you have to reset it manually (a few dealers out there tell you that your ABS sensor is u/s due to your tyre running flat and charge you for a new one-they then just reset the thing) I'm guessing there are other times when a red light stays on..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mk1 Man Posted April 6, 2013 Report Share Posted April 6, 2013 (edited) Mk1 Man-I have a Shogun that has displayed a red engine warning light twice-on both occasions I had the car diagnostics checked and no faults were found in the memory.If you have warning lights for flat tyres (on cars with run flats) a red light normally tells you--even after the tyre is replaced the light remains on-you have to reset it manually (a few dealers out there tell you that your ABS sensor is u/s due to your tyre running flat and charge you for a new one-they then just reset the thing) I'm guessing there are other times when a red light stays on..... I'm well aware of the resetting of them....I had a 3 series BMW and the service warning had to be reset by the mechanic after the service was complete with the diagnostic computer. The trouble with a lot of modern cars is that they have sensors all over the engine monitoring all manner of things and it only takes a hiccup to upset one and bingo...EML comes on. Problem then is that most if not all owners don't have the diagnostic code readers to see what happened. It's definitely worth joining a forum dedicated to your particular make of car...can save loads of money. I now drive a Nissan Terrano Tdi and have been a member of Nissan 4x4 owners club since owning it and have saved loads of money by finding out how to repair things myself. Touch wood, I've never had the EML come on my truck, but if it does i've got the diagnostic code reader and codes to tell me what the problem is. Edited April 6, 2013 by Mk1 Man Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
liam8223 Posted April 6, 2013 Report Share Posted April 6, 2013 I believe they have to come on with ignition and then go out. A light that doesn't come on at all is also a fail Wrong! In Vosa's infinite wisdom the RFR (reason for refusal) for non illumination was deleted with the addition of these latest RFR's. Regards, Your resident MOT tester. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pimpkiller Posted April 6, 2013 Report Share Posted April 6, 2013 the problem with warning lights is that they usually come on because the sensor is naffed not the thing thats supposed to be monitored so what im saying is its silly to fail on a warning light instead of the condition of the thing that should be checked. I get all sorts of lights in my FIAT, indicator failure, brake light failure, fuel filter frozen up, Engine failure light stuff all up with the car its just sensors playing up and unsurprisingly sensors cost a fortune to replace. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Marty Posted April 6, 2013 Report Share Posted April 6, 2013 oh good mine looks like a bingo board only need 1 more and its a full house first class Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richie223 Posted April 7, 2013 Report Share Posted April 7, 2013 Also steering stops must now touch when on full lock ,For hgv Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PWD Posted April 7, 2013 Report Share Posted April 7, 2013 (edited) Our local mechanic said he thought the test were going to get tougher...but re testing would be extended eventually to 2 years not 1..any truth in this. Edited April 7, 2013 by PWD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil82 Posted April 7, 2013 Report Share Posted April 7, 2013 Our local mechanic said he thought the test were going to get tougher...but re testing would be extended eventually to 2 years not 1..any truth in this. hope this stupidity never occurs, what you all need to know is how lax the pass standard actually is in this country, parts can be so bad that any normal person would replace them immediately but because they get a pass with advisories they think its safe for another 12 months, extend that to 2 years and I shudder to think what sort of condition it will be when its tested. Germany uses 2 year tests but the pass/fail standard out there would make your eyes water, also any repairs have to be done by a certified technician or inspected and signed off by one, I can remember when the tyre limit was raised to 1.6 mm, about 6 months after this a local traffic plod came in to ask how many people were taking notice of it, when he saw the tyres we were changing then most (if not all) would have resulted in points under the 1mm limit let alone 1.6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SPARKIE Posted April 7, 2013 Report Share Posted April 7, 2013 just fix it if theres a warning light on its for a reason.......now if that reason turns out to be something silly for instance say brake fluid level low but you know its ok and the senser is duff......instead of forking out for a whole new brake res and having all the brakes bled yada yada yada.....just wire the buld into one of the other bulbs take a feed from the engine management bulb then when that goes of bingo so does the brake and no mot tester will catch onto that..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Royboy Posted April 7, 2013 Report Share Posted April 7, 2013 Wrong! In Vosa's infinite wisdom the RFR (reason for refusal) for non illumination was deleted with the addition of these latest RFR's. Regards, Your resident MOT tester. Are you sure they have changed this ? I've not seen this in my special notices at work. I thought it was still a fail if ABS lamp was illuminated ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vince Green Posted April 7, 2013 Report Share Posted April 7, 2013 (edited) whats so wrong with actually getting the fault fixed? or is that too controversial? I have this great arrangement with my local garage. I drive the car there, he does an MOT and repairs anything that need doing. Then I drive it home again with a new MOT, it doesn't seem that complicated Edited April 7, 2013 by Vince Green Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westmids1987 Posted April 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2013 whats so wrong with actually getting the fault fixed? or is that too controversial? I have this great arrangement with my local garage. I drive the car there, he does an MOT and repairs anything that need doing. Then I drive it home again with a new MOT, it doesn't seem that complicated Sounds simple in theory however,with the wifes car it failed on a warning light that wasnt actually a problem just the sensor tripped it on so needed resting,the garage wanted minimum £75 to reset maximum £500, rather them £20 from bloke at another place? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mk1 Man Posted April 7, 2013 Report Share Posted April 7, 2013 whats so wrong with actually getting the fault fixed? or is that too controversial? I have this great arrangement with my local garage. I drive the car there, he does an MOT and repairs anything that need doing. Then I drive it home again with a new MOT, it doesn't seem that complicated How odd....That's exactly what i do at MOT time as well. Unless i can fix anything myself beforehand. I can't do with warning lights illuminated on the dash, so always make sure everything works as it should. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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