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Steel target thickness


Deiseboy
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Since I'm home next week with plenty time off ive decided to make some steel targets.
I was wondering what thickness metal would be good enough to withstand a .22 at 50-100 yards with subs and a hmr wmr at 150-200.
The targets will be hanging do I hope that will deflect some of the energy.
I will be using scrap metal from around a metal factory so it wont be ar400/500 but its free so it will do for now.
Would stainless be stronger?
Here's what I made up today and what im hoping to make something along those lines.
gongs 75, 125 and 200.. Ill make a few other sized ones to swap to aswel.
Using a bolt to hang them so they can be easily swapped.
isometric_zps1af08649.jpg
Drawingmeasurements_zpsdd11baa9.jpg
duellingmeasurements_zps9cac0e6e.jpg
Not sure if ye can see the measurements cos they're scaled for an A3 sheet but they're off slightly because the pieces are tilted down slightly to deflect the bullets.
Any opinions on anything I should do differently welcomed.

 

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I think you'll find the chains will make the plates dance all over the place when struck and a richochet could have an erratic flight. Why not substitute them for small exhaust clamps so the plate moves backwards smoothly and the bullet will be deflected downwards.

Edited by Imperfection
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I think you'll find the chains will make the plates dance all over the place when struck and a richochet could have an erratic flight. Why not substitute them for small exhaust clamps so the plate moves backwards smoothly and the bullet will be deflected downwards.

Funny you mention that, I actually taught of that today but not using an exhaust clamp. I was going to weld a nut of piece of pipe onto the top and hang them all off a metal bar so it can only swing backwards and forwards.

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Half inch is far to thick and heavy. You won't see it move at much past 25 yards. Instead of chain use a strip of rubber ( as mud flap off large trucks) Easy to cut in a strip. as wide as gong. Then fold one end over bar and bolt. The other bolted to gong with two bolts (this will keep it square to shooter) The rubber will take thousands of hits and one less chance of richochet. Works for center fire too.

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3 piece’s of tube with clearance on your main top bar say 50mm long each and a length of 40x6mm flat bar.

Cut and weld a tab along the axis of tube around 60mm long, drill a hole in the bar 30mm in and centre then you can leave those on the bar, then drill and bolt a length of the flat bar in place of your chain to your gong and bolt it to the tab.

That way it won’t twist like the chain….

 

 

TEH

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I'd be surprised if 4mm plate didn't last a good while, stainless will obviously prevent the old tin worm and as it work hardens may prove tougher in the long run.

 

That spinner of yours could have a plate welded to the rear two legs to put bullets into the ground, if it were a shallow enough angle to ensure its down as opposed to back your way. Or thick rubber - I've shot on ranges where rubber sheets were used as a backstop with a wall several feet behind, I can't see a .22 or HMR going far after hitting steel then passing through 1/2" of rubber. I also used to belong to a club who had two target holders for .22lr at 15yds that were simply a strong box (about 6mm) with an angled "roof" that deflected the bullets into a tray at the back.

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Cheers for the photo,

 

What I´ll do is get a few small waste cut pieces of different thicknesses and line em up and see which I´m happy with.

 

If it passes through 10mm steel at 100 yards im gonna have to push my fox shooting out to 200 cos it must be well capable :good::whistling:

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used 8mm steel plate at 300m this weekend gone by, suspended on chain. Hunting rounds dent it massivly, full metal jacket passes straight through

 

 

Calibre?

 

..suspended on a chain :hmm::hmm::hmm: that will help dissipate energy ...yeah, what calibre/s was this at 300 yards, my photo shows various rounds at 100 yards on 12mm steel (ok, mine is 50% thicker), FIRMLY supported and nothing went through, inc. FMJ!

Edited by Dekers
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Cheers for the photo,

 

What I´ll do is get a few small waste cut pieces of different thicknesses and line em up and see which I´m happy with.

 

If it passes through 10mm steel at 100 yards im gonna have to push my fox shooting out to 200 cos it must be well capable :good::whistling:

 

Am I getting confused here, are you talking HMR/WMR on 10mm Steel Plate at 100 yards?

 

If so it will hardly mark it!

 

You will not get any surface splash as in my pics using the bigger calibres and you will probably just see a few surface scratches! :good:

Edited by Dekers
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Am I getting confused here, are you talking HMR/WMR on 10mm Steel Plate at 100 yards?

 

If so it will hardly mark it!

 

You will not get any surface splash as in my pics using the bigger calibres and you will probably just see a few surface scratches! :good:

I was been sarcastic more than anything. im hearing off more people that it will pass through 10mm steel at 100 yards but these same people think the hmr wudnt kill a fox at that range.

 

I cant imagine it doing much damage either. not even to half the thickness you used at 150 yards.

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theres no risk of injuring a steel plate though :no:

 

found the very post, my memory serves me correct

http://forums.pigeonwatch.co.uk/forums/topic/122331-how-thick-does-my-protection-need-to-be/?hl=%2B10mm+%2Bsteel+%2Bplate&do=findComment&comment=1054989

post 7 from EE, nice chap see no reason why he would want to tell tails

 

now some time back i watched a guy on the range putting a .222 through steel plate dangling on a string at 100 yard plus, the plate didn't even twitch so i'd not be too surprised with what EE has said :good:

Edited by Paul223
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