malcolm Posted December 22, 2006 Report Share Posted December 22, 2006 Please help Anyone, A rather helpful friend overtigtentened the choke in my semi. Co-incidently Browning "stored" it for 3 months while they did a warrenty repair. And guess what....... I can't get the choke out now. I've tried keys with spanners for leaverage, gentle heat (just hand hot) but no joy. What do you suggest or what would a gunsmith do? Cheers Malcolm PS On the bright side its a 1/4 that stuck in So why would I want to change it eh? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
webber Posted December 22, 2006 Report Share Posted December 22, 2006 1. Soak the choke end of the barrels in a container of wd40 or similar for at least a week. 2. Try to undo. if no go. go to 3. 3. You need an electric hot air gun. Play the heat on the outside of the barrels at the choke end as evenly as possible. About 5 minutes should do. Then remove choke. If this fails, I have other methods. webber Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pin Posted December 22, 2006 Report Share Posted December 22, 2006 DOH! :good: First try lube, silicone based will probably work best, soak it so it can wick up and get into the threads. Then try removing it again it will probably come loose. You can add a little more force using something else attached to the wrench to give more leverage too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Finnclassic Posted December 22, 2006 Report Share Posted December 22, 2006 I had this problem with my Browning semi auto. Obviously oil it first as the others have said. Remove the barrel and hold it between your legs using the connection lug to prevent it rotating. Put the choke key in (hold it in position with the forefinger of your spare hand) and tap it repetitively using a light but solid steel bar (the handle of a 3/8 socket bar is about right). You shouldnt be hitting it hard enough to damage the choke lugs. Its is the repeated short sharp impacts that eventually break it away. Ive done it to a few guns now and it works for me. It took over an hour with one but it did work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mungler Posted December 22, 2006 Report Share Posted December 22, 2006 As long as the choke key is a good tight fit then try tapping the end of it with a heavy spanner or small hammer. I find that strong short sharp "taps" work better than exerted force (i.e. twisting). EDIT: Just seen Finnclassic's post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oly Posted December 22, 2006 Report Share Posted December 22, 2006 I had this problem with my Browning semi auto. Obviously oil it first as the others have said. Remove the barrel and hold it between your legs using the connection lug to prevent it rotating. Put the choke key in (hold it in position with the forefinger of your spare hand) and tap it repetitively using a light but solid steel bar (the handle of a 3/8 socket bar is about right). You shouldnt be hitting it hard enough to damage the choke lugs. Its is the repeated short sharp impacts that eventually break it away. Ive done it to a few guns now and it works for me. It took over an hour with one but it did work! I had this problem with the escort I bought recent from LG. I popped my head around the gunmsmiths door of a local clay shoot and he said exactly the above...then asked to see it briefly and removed it with gentle but sharp tapping with a light hammer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
malcolm Posted December 22, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 22, 2006 Many thanks everyone, I'll have a go and tell you how I get on. I was worried about using too much force or over heating it. Cheers Malcolm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
njc110381 Posted December 22, 2006 Report Share Posted December 22, 2006 As above really. Tapping will break the grip slightly and should knock it loose. It works on all sorts of stuff from rusted bolts to over tight bottle tops! Hope it comes undone for you in the end Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SPARKIE Posted December 22, 2006 Report Share Posted December 22, 2006 how a bout takein to the clay ground and shoot loads of clays then when the barrels is hot try to remove.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobby t Posted December 22, 2006 Report Share Posted December 22, 2006 1. go to gun shop 2. buy lots of cartridges 3. complain to wife "oh dear its broke i better go clay shooting to loosen it up, or the smith will charge me lots of the readies to get it out" 4. shoot lots of clays have a good time 5. sneak home having shot lots of cartridges creep into garrage and tap away at the choke as above until it comes free. 6. return to loving wife saying a few shots at the clays soon freed it up. everyone wins Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McF Posted December 22, 2006 Report Share Posted December 22, 2006 wrap a piece of fine grade emery paper around your choke key and tap it into your barrel then turn the choke key, the grit on the emery paper will give you extra grip inside the choke. it worked for me. McF Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
malcolm Posted December 22, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 22, 2006 Still stuck, I need some patience I suppose for the oil to soak in. Choke key tommy bar bent and plastic bits melted . I am starting to round the castellations Gun smith talked of oxy-acetelene. I think he had better do that. I will sent the final outcome Cheers Malcolm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mossy835 Posted December 22, 2006 Report Share Posted December 22, 2006 that hapened two me had two take it two the gun smith had it cut out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piebob Posted December 31, 2006 Report Share Posted December 31, 2006 Stand the choke-end of the barrel in a container of diesel for a couple of days then try to remove using your key. Worked for me when I overtightened one of mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
malcolm Posted January 1, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2007 Stand the choke-end of the barrel in a container of diesel for a couple of days then try to remove using your key. Worked for me when I overtightened one of mine. Thanks, I'll try that. Cheers Malcolm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
webber Posted January 1, 2007 Report Share Posted January 1, 2007 Malcomb Oxy-Acet, no way, far too hot for this job. The fine emery trick that Mcf has mentioned did work for him. It was carried out in my workshops. However I doubt that it would work for you unless an expanding mandrell was employed. It worked for McF because his Miroku is fitted with teague chokes which employ a taperes plug key. McFs choke was stuck and we had tried soaking and heating over a few weeks. We did not actually use emery paper, but used very, wery fine wet and dry paper which was wrapped around the plug key and then gently tapped into the choke. One turn and then hey presto. I did advise in my previous post, and others have also mentioned soaking, WD40, plus gas, penetrating oil, diesel, but it does need time. Good luck, but dont go anywhere near those barells with oxy-acet, unless the soaking and heat gun methods with an expanding mandrell have failed. The oxy-acet flame is extremeley hot, great skill and care would need to be excersised. I would go for hot oil, but be carefull, I would even hammer someone elses finger down the choke, before I would use the gas axe. webber Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sundodger Posted April 23, 2007 Report Share Posted April 23, 2007 So how did you get on Malc? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
invector Posted April 23, 2007 Report Share Posted April 23, 2007 All of the above emphasises the need for regular choke removal, and cleaning. With reference to the friction fit Teagues, now you know why I changed mine to Invector Plus! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr salt Posted July 31, 2009 Report Share Posted July 31, 2009 webber is right (post 3 ) wd40 and time scott mr salt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrispti Posted July 31, 2009 Report Share Posted July 31, 2009 (edited) webber is right (post 3 ) wd40 and time scott mr salt I think he might have it out by now buddy Edited July 31, 2009 by chrispti Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nial Posted August 3, 2009 Report Share Posted August 3, 2009 webber is right (post 3 ) wd40 and time scott mr salt Except WD40 isn't penetrating oil, you're better off with Plusgas or somthing similar. Mine have been stuck since I got my gun last September. I wondered about heating a small pan of diesel in a pan of boiling water (to limit the temperature) then sitting the choke ends on the barrel in this for a few minutes. I'll try the tapping method first though, isn't this how impact wrenches work? Nial. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr salt Posted August 7, 2009 Report Share Posted August 7, 2009 i did not read the date of the post,what a idiot! still think webber is right. wd 40 and time, but maybe not two and a half years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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