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one for the bikers


colin lad
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WD40 does make a mess but Colin, but I use it along with GT85. It doesn't dry so a quick wipe over with a rag and you get a nice shine.

 

Greece is a no no for me as it just attracts all the dirt, dust and grime to the chain and it sticks!

 

What the gent said about the heat wax is the best job.

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Definitely NOT WD40, not thick enough. I use an aerosol chain wax. Seems to do the job and the fling's not too bad I think some is inevitable. I have to say, if I was still doing big miles I'd have another Scottoiler fitted. Slightly more mess but chains last AGES!!! My VFR was on the same chain after 4 years, 2 sprockets and about 40,000 miles.

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As mentioned-a Scottoiler would be the best long term but with such short distance I would think that any decent quality chain lube should do-during winter wash it down every month with wd40 or gunk and reapply the lube. Many modern chains are O ring sealed type and don't need the deeper penetrating oils of yesteryear. If washing it off your swing arm is such a chore you might find comfort in the fact that its stopping the dreaded rust.

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As mentioned-a Scottoiler would be the best long term but with such short distance I would think that any decent quality chain lube should do-during winter wash it down every month with wd40 or gunk and reapply the lube. Many modern chains are O ring sealed type and don't need the deeper penetrating oils of yesteryear. If washing it off your swing arm is such a chore you might find comfort in the fact that its stopping the dreaded rust.

yeah very true i have just ordered some chain wax so will apply that once a week or so when i get home from work so chain is warm don't mind washing bike down in the warmer weather it's just getting out there in the winter when i could be sat in the warm on pw hehe

 

colin

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The spray-on waxes and oils don't really penetrate the chain rollers. The technique with Linklyfe (and the Putoline boiling wax that is on e-bay) is to heat the chain in the tin until the air and steam bubbles stop, let the stuff cool down (but not solidify) so that it penetrates the rollers, then hang the chain up to drip the excess lube back into the tin overnight.

This way you get full lubrication of the chain with minimal fling.

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The spray-on waxes and oils don't really penetrate the chain rollers. The technique with Linklyfe (and the Putoline boiling wax that is on e-bay) is to heat the chain in the tin until the air and steam bubbles stop, let the stuff cool down (but not solidify) so that it penetrates the rollers, then hang the chain up to drip the excess lube back into the tin overnight.

This way you get full lubrication of the chain with minimal fling.

that sounds the ideal way

 

colin

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that sounds the ideal way

 

colin

It might be if you can remove your chain without cutting/breaking a link. I couldn't on mine.

 

It's also overkill IMO. It was fine and valid for the old plain link chains, but modern O/X-ring chains are designed to hold lube behind the ring, you are protecting the visible faces primarily nowadays.

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It might be if you can remove your chain without cutting/breaking a link. I couldn't on mine.

 

It's also overkill IMO. It was fine and valid for the old plain link chains, but modern O/X-ring chains are designed to hold lube behind the ring, you are protecting the visible faces primarily nowadays.

Exactly, we don't know the model of bike but if it's anything over a 125 it's probably got an O or X ring chain and probably riveted with no master link. All the chain wax does is lubricate the outside of the chain and the sprockets.

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