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Convert S/A .22LR into B/A?


spandit
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Semi auto .22's tend to be noisier than their bolt action counterparts & I was speculating on what the effect would be if the bolt was locked (like a normal bolt action) on sound & accuracy. I'd presume if the gun could take it then more power would be transferred to the bullet which could lead to a flatter trajectory. I know there might be some extraction issues but pull back actions are available (the old cadet SA80 rifle for example, L98A1?)

 

Not sure how it would be achieved on my Anschutz 525 without some proper machining but I'm stuck away from home at the moment so my mind is free to wander

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To answer my own question, there are kits available to lock the bolt on a 10/22 but how similar the mechanism is, I don't know.

 

The 525 gets very mixed reviews, some love it, some hate it. Not having tried anything else, I can't really compare it but having a locked bolt would also lessen the crud that gets thrown into the action after each shot

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I saw a South African .22 a while back that could do this...either operate as a semi or a manual bolt action...

 

Also seen this system on the Voere

 

The 10/22 kits are relatively simple and easy to fit.

 

The way ahead would be to find a mate with a lathe/milling machine & see what you can come up with; all it'd need (on a VERY BASIC level) is a pin to lock the bolt in the firing position

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Not sure if more energy would be transferred to the bullet. Might be wrong here but I think the same energy would be imparted to the bullet, but there would be slightly more felt recoil. Newton's third law and all that...

Probably would be more recoil but the increased inertia of the whole rifle/me combo compared to the sliding bolt should mean more muzzle velocity. Difficult to test without a chronograph, I suppose.

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Thought I'd see if I could try mine with a locked bolt today. Trying to hold the bolt closed with gloves was both impractical & not very effective, so decides to get stuck in to some metalwork.

 

The bolt handle on my rifle just pulls out without having to take it apart so I made up a pin to sit in its place:

 

null_zpsce6be49d.jpg

 

The original is on the right. The piece on the left was made to hook over the injection port. A couple of test firings showed that although the effect on sound was noticeable, the piece bent after about three rounds and didn't hold the bolt closed so effectively.

 

On to Mark II:

 

null_zps5f26cdbc.jpg

 

The upper piece slots over the pin & sits in the rifle like this:

 

null_zps368e7685.jpg

 

It took a while to make as its to a pretty high precision (mainly hand filed). My rifle never had the ejection port deflector which would have gotten in the way had it been there.

 

Back out to the range where I'm happy to report the report was much quieter. Not sure about accuracy but with the piece removed, the rifle operates in semi-automatic mode as normal. In fact, it's easier to cock than before with the new pin! I tried making a sound recording but my iPhone cuts out without the piece installed so you can't actually hear it on S/A. I'll have another go in due course with a better mic.

 

Not a perfect solution but it means I can easily return the rifle to original condition as I haven't damaged any parts. A short walk around the paddock (got to within 15 feet of some rabbits, at 4:30pm - only saw them when they ran off!) proved it didn't fall out of the action

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Help me out here, what is the process for ejecting/loading with that length of metal holding the bolt closed, do you have to remove it for each operation?

You can pull it clear of the slot and it will hang on the bolt handle (or you can just take it right off). As I said, not a perfect arrangement but it does work. Will be interested to see how much cleaner it makes the action as it tends to get covered in stuff pretty quickly (especially with the ammo I'm using, which is really greasy)

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