margun Posted November 30, 2014 Report Share Posted November 30, 2014 I recently treated my stock with Danish oil because the oil finish was wearing in places. Have applied 2 thin coats already, with the most recent one having spent 3 days in the airing cupboard. Still tacky though and want to go shooting!!! Have read about using white spirit / meths / fine wire wool to 'knock the surface back'. Or should I just be more patient? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnphilip Posted November 30, 2014 Report Share Posted November 30, 2014 that should have dried in a couple of hours i would knock it back again with what ever you have then stick it under the tap and let it dry then give it a coat not to thick and leave it for a while give it a rub with fine wire wool or 600 grit paper and repeat the last few coats should not need knocking back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
margun Posted November 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2014 Thanks johnphilip, not sure why it isn't drying. Perhaps the wood is saturated? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welshwarrior Posted November 30, 2014 Report Share Posted November 30, 2014 Sounds like it's sitting on top of the old finish, which may not of been oiled or was a hard varish type oil like tru oil. It needs removing white spirt and wire wool remove your sticky oil and then you can work out what your doing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scully Posted November 30, 2014 Report Share Posted November 30, 2014 Sounds like it's sitting on top of the old finish, which may not of been oiled or was a hard varish type oil like tru oil. It needs removing white spirt and wire wool remove your sticky oil and then you can work out what your doing. This one. Have applied more Danish oil than I care to remember but never on a gun stock. As WW says above, something is inhibiting the oil from penetrating the wood. Once you've got an absorbent surface apply it in a thin veneer and than rub it down with a cloth. Don't keep your oily cloths indoors, bin them outside. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gunman Posted November 30, 2014 Report Share Posted November 30, 2014 Never known it to be successful on gunstocks and yes I have tried it as I have tried many other oils and finishes , ever adding a drying agent such as terabine . If I were you I would get some thinners and clean it all off and use a traditional oil preparation that will be much more forgiving to being applied to previously treated surfaces . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welshwarrior Posted November 30, 2014 Report Share Posted November 30, 2014 (edited) Never known it to be successful on gunstocks and yes I have tried it as I have tried many other oils and finishes , ever adding a drying agent such as terabine . If I were you I would get some thinners and clean it all off and use a traditional oil preparation that will be much more forgiving to being applied to previously treated surfaces . Glad you said that it's not worked for me but heard people claim it's great. Edited November 30, 2014 by welshwarrior Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptainBeaky Posted November 30, 2014 Report Share Posted November 30, 2014 Also, there's Danish Oil and Danish Oil - not all are the same. Cheaper ones tend to have less Tung oil and more man-made resins. The better ones have a much higher Tung oil solids content - over 50% is what you're looking for. This is basically Tung oil in turpentine, as used on gun stocks for ages, with a few dryers added (like the terebene mentioned by Gunman). As Daf said above, it sounds as if your oil is sitting on top of the old finish, which needs stripping off first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
margun Posted November 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2014 Thanks for the replies all. I have removed the sticky oil with wire wool and white spirit. Not sure how to remove the old finish, what I'm after is a semi gloss, deep oiled finish. Quite nice figuring which id like to emphasis. Will get some photos up when I can Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
team tractor Posted November 30, 2014 Report Share Posted November 30, 2014 Heat won't dry paints, oils etc on it's own. You need air circulation . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnphilip Posted December 1, 2014 Report Share Posted December 1, 2014 B&Qdo a varnish remover its in a white plastic bottle . the good thing about it does not stink .give your stock and forend a coat then leave it for a while ( it will tell you on the bottle) it may need a second coat . do not leave it to long you should start to see it work . then get some fine wire wool and water and rub it of . to remove the rest if you have the nerve to do it is use an old stanley blade . what you are going to do is scrap the rest of , its all about the angle of the blade . it will remove it all faster than sandpaper or wire wool . get a piece of wood to pratice on you are wanting to scrape without digging in . you will soon get a feel for it. best to start pulling towards you .good danish oil does work . as you have said the beauty is all ready there in the wood , you are not looking to dye it. just to bring out the grain.on the checkering when you are using the stripper use an old tooth brush . and when removing from the checkering same thing . it takes time to get it right the hardest bit is the prep the rest is easy if you take time and dont rush it or cut corners . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnphilip Posted December 1, 2014 Report Share Posted December 1, 2014 here is a video on scraping Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobba Posted December 1, 2014 Report Share Posted December 1, 2014 B&Qdo a varnish remover its in a white plastic bottle . the good thing about it does not stink .give your stock and forend a coat then leave it for a while ( it will tell you on the bottle) it may need a second coat . do not leave it to long you should start to see it work . then get some fine wire wool and water and rub it of . to remove the rest if you have the nerve to do it is use an old stanley blade . what you are going to do is scrap the rest of , its all about the angle of the blade . it will remove it all faster than sandpaper or wire wool . get a piece of wood to pratice on you are wanting to scrape without digging in . you will soon get a feel for it. best to start pulling towards you .good danish oil does work . as you have said the beauty is all ready there in the wood , you are not looking to dye it. just to bring out the grain.on the checkering when you are using the stripper use an old tooth brush . and when removing from the checkering same thing . it takes time to get it right the hardest bit is the prep the rest is easy if you take time and dont rush it or cut corners . Good advice above. I have done two this way to good effect. The only difference in approach is that I have used a pack of new Stanley knife blades carefully until they dull; and I use car bar wet and dry paper rather than sand paper as it is extremely fine and can be be used with water to wash off the stock. If you go down this route please remember to remove all metal from the woodwork!! i.e remove stock from the action and forend locking mechanism. I then finished mine with CCL traditional stock oiling kit (the three bottle kit). Good Luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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