idiot loading guide for utter beginners

[hoggysreels]

Im after reading a simplistic guide to.loading .410 cartridges ... and l mean simplistics .. as in at the start the items required are named and explained as to their function .. most topics lve read seem to start as if the potential loader hss an elimentary knowledge regards home loading .. l feel if there were an absolute basic explaination, starting from the ground up, it might entice people to consider participating into home loading .. l realistically would only need about 250 .410 carts per year .. say split between 6's-7's .. lm after a start from absolute scratch intro .. any points much appreciated .. even the individual names if speific items required l feel need explaining .. if this sounds dimmish, lm not going to apologise .. all new endeavours l feel are best acheived from absolute grass routes and upwards ..l watch video of the process, but ld like to get into home losd possibly buying a cheapo introductio kit, bssically to see if its for me ..lm not even sure lf l need buy new cart cases, or its possible to reuse once fired carts .. lve been saving my spent cases .. lve no idea on what ld need, where to obtain case or if old ones can be reused .. where to source primers/shot/wadding .. basically the whole shabang .. any help appreciated "think l need someone with patients, that likes helping out rather than a person that expects everyone to know as much as they do .. so a laid back relaxed helper preferred .. many tbanks

Edited January 4, 2015 by hoggysreels

[bluesj]

Would be interested in this myself

[MAB1954]

I can only tell you what I did when I started a few years ago.

 

First get a copy of Lyman Shotshell Reloading Handbook 5th Edition. Read it then read it again. This book will give you a good understanding of the process.

 

For the number of shells per year you plan to load a handloading method may be more cost effective than a press. You decide.

 

Watch some of the numerus youtube video's both handloading and with a press. Not all the content will be best practise but refer to Lyman book if unsure.

 

Have a look on suppliers websites including Clay & Game, FES, Siarm and Shotgunreloading, there may be others just use google. Plus its worth speaking to your gunshop/gunsmith. Decide on press or handloading tools plus a good beam or digital scale.

 

If by now you have found someone local to you who reloads you are off to a good start, if not ask more questions on here.

 

Good luck, be careful and enjoy.

[Tim Kelly]

It does seem like a black art which nobody wants to tell the secrets of. Is it really so tricky that it can't be simply explained?

[sitsinhedges]

It does seem like a black art which nobody wants to tell the secrets of. Is it really so tricky that it can't be simply explained?

 

It isn't a black art at all but you need to put some effort in instead of expecting it to be served up on a plate. There are no secrets but you can't expect others to write a book for you when the information is already out there. If you need help on specific points once you've done your own research I'm sure you will get the guidance you need right here

[Guest cookoff013]

It isn't a black art at all but you need to put some effort in instead of expecting it to be served up on a plate. There are no secrets but you can't expect others to write a book for you when the information is already out there. If you need help on specific points once you've done your own research I'm sure you will get the guidance you need right here

What he said.

Read up.

[fenboy]

For loading 200 or so a year , I would just hand load and RTO so the only outlay other than components would be a RTO tool and a decent set of powder scales.

[stubby]

for only 250 carts I'd buy them and not bother

[robbiep]

For loading 200 or so a year , I would just hand load and RTO so the only outlay other than components would be a RTO tool and a decent set of powder scales.

 

for only 250 carts I'd buy them and not bother

Both of those posts have a lot of merit.

 

For an idea of what is involved, with absolutely minimal tools and outlay, then have a look at these 2 pages :

 

http://forums.outdoorsdirectory.com/showthread.php/112231-Reloading-410-shotshells-without-a-press

the first post is his 'guide', and his photo guide (to be looked at with it) is :

https://plus.google.com/photos/111586335714667129881/albums/5722067605588799681?banner=pwa

[Andy H]

The book "Climbing the north face of the .410" has got the information dedicated to reloading the 410.

[sitsinhedges]

I haven't reloaded .410 for quite some time but this is all you need really. You can put a primer on a flat surface and push the case onto it to seat after decapping it with the punch and anvil.

 

[Tim Kelly]

 

It isn't a black art at all but you need to put some effort in instead of expecting it to be served up on a plate. There are no secrets but you can't expect others to write a book for you when the information is already out there. If you need help on specific points once you've done your own research I'm sure you will get the guidance you need right here

 

Whenever I've tried to read up on it it seems to be even more intangible. Every recipe calls for a different combination of cases, primers, wads, powders etc, so it seems impossible for a beginner to buy a simple set of stuff that can load a small range of cartridges. If you ask for a recipe you get directed to the same sort of information that expects you to have a dozen different types of each component. I'm sure someone must have a few recipes that would work to produce a few different steel wildfowling loads for example, but I've never discovered how to find it. I have a little basic lee loading press sitting in the garage unused as I've always given up on trying to find the right components, especially all from the same supplier!

 

The covern keep their secrets safe.

[sitsinhedges]

 

Whenever I've tried to read up on it it seems to be even more intangible. Every recipe calls for a different combination of cases, primers, wads, powders etc, so it seems impossible for a beginner to buy a simple set of stuff that can load a small range of cartridges. If you ask for a recipe you get directed to the same sort of information that expects you to have a dozen different types of each component. I'm sure someone must have a few recipes that would work to produce a few different steel wildfowling loads for example, but I've never discovered how to find it. I have a little basic lee loading press sitting in the garage unused as I've always given up on trying to find the right components, especially all from the same supplier!

 

The covern keep their secrets safe.

 

 

You need to decide exactly what you want to reload. Components aren't necessarily interchangeable from recipe to recipe so you need to be specific, same as you might be for cooking for example (so I'm told )..

Decide what you want and no doubt someone will give you an idea of what components to buy and then how to put them together. You can't just get a set that will do everything.

[Uncle Albert]

 

Whenever I've tried to read up on it, it seems to be even more intangible. Every recipe calls for a different combination of cases, primers, wads, powders etc, so it seems impossible for a beginner to buy a simple set of stuff that can load a small range of cartridges. If you ask for a recipe you get directed to the same sort of information that expects you to have a dozen different types of each component. I'm sure someone must have a few recipes that would work to produce a few different steel wildfowling loads for example, but I've never discovered how to find it. I have a little basic lee loading press sitting in the garage unused as I've always given up on trying to find the right components, especially all from the same supplier!

 

The covern keep their secrets safe.

 

The important bit is to decide exactly what you want to reload. It's no good trying to get bits here, bits there and hoping they will fit together. Believe me I've been down that route. It don't work.

 

Start off with a simple shell, say 28grm clay shell. You will need to source your materials, preferably from someone who knows what they are talking about. I started getting powder and some wads from one source and shot from another. It turned pout the wads were the wrong size and the powder was £35.00 for 500grm. I got put onto Folkestone Engineering Supplies ( www.####.co.uk ) by Cookoff, on here. Powder, wads, shot, all from the same source and most important of all, they fit. Fit what? You say you have a Lee Load-All. That machine makes good quality shells but does have limitations. It loads 12 gauge, 70mm hulls only. You can get conversion kits to load other gauges but you are adding cost. For the money though it is a very good machine (£55.00). The next one up would be the MEC at about £160.00 - £180.00.

 

It is important to get the shot column right (Powder, Wad length, Shot) so that when you crimp the case it goes together nicely, the crimps are flat and the shell looks like a factory shell. Wrong size wad, too much/too little shot and the petals of the crimp will bend inwards or won't even close.

 

Don't forget we are dealing with explosives so it's important to get it right. That is why people tell you to do your research before going any further. They are not being secretive or obstructive, they are thinking of your safety.

 

There are plenty of suppliers of powder but a lot of them are American and are twice as expensive as European powder. Have a look at the web site I indicated and get in contact with him for a natter. He also runs classes.

 

Dave

[Tim Kelly]

Thank you. It's not a lee loadall, it's a more basic one (Junior?). I got it to try to load some steel loads for duck and geese in 3" cases, but gave up after ages of googling to try and find some recipes that would work for a lighter load of 3 shot and a heavier load of BBs using the same components. There seem to be so few recipes that use the same cases, wads, primers and powers. I pretty much gave up and now with Gamebore Mammoth and Eley Lightening loads being available it hardly seems worthwhile. At the time it was a real job to get any steel loads.

[ChrisAsh]

Try Folkestone Engineering they run homeloading day course and can supply all you need

 

There is also a company selling a simular hand loading tool like the Lee Loader set for about £40.00 ideal for the numbers you are talking about

[ChrisAsh]

Found it http://www.lanesreloading.com/410.html

[motty]

Thank you. It's not a lee loadall, it's a more basic one (Junior?). I got it to try to load some steel loads for duck and geese in 3" cases, but gave up after ages of googling to try and find some recipes that would work for a lighter load of 3 shot and a heavier load of BBs using the same components. There seem to be so few recipes that use the same cases, wads, primers and powers. I pretty much gave up and now with Gamebore Mammoth and Eley Lightening loads being available it hardly seems worthwhile. At the time it was a real job to get any steel loads.

Honestly, it really isn't that hard. I started by buying a few reloading books and reading them - importantly heeding the advice. I've spent a lot of money on gear over the last 2-3 years and I have several very good and very reliable non-toxic loads that I use. Many recipes I use share the same components. It needn't cost too much, but I tend to go in with both feet and buy far more than I need. There is still plenty for me to learn, but the basics really aren't hard to master.

Edited January 6, 2015 by motty

[fenboy]

Honestly, it really isn't that hard. I started by buying a few reloading books and reading them - importantly heeding the advice. I've spent a lot of money on gear over the last 2-3 years and I have several very good and very reliable non-toxic loads that I use. Many recipes I use share the same components. It needn't cost too much, but I tend to go in with both feet and buy far more than I need. There is still plenty for me to learn, but the basics really aren't hard to master.

Putting a new primer in before the powder is pretty basic

[motty]

Putting a new primer in before the powder is pretty basic

Exactly! Showing someone these pitfalls at first hand is the right way to learn!

[fenboy]

Exactly! Showing someone these pitfalls at first hand is the right way to learn!

Ok , you may have a point as I did learn not to do that

[Uncle Albert]

Thank you. It's not a lee loadall, it's a more basic one (Junior?). I got it to try to load some steel loads for duck and geese in 3" cases, but gave up after ages of googling to try and find some recipes that would work for a lighter load of 3 shot and a heavier load of BBs using the same components. There seem to be so few recipes that use the same cases, wads, primers and powers. I pretty much gave up and now with Gamebore Mammoth and Eley Lightening loads being available it hardly seems worthwhile. At the time it was a real job to get any steel loads.

 

You will find that whilst you may use the same cases and primers, the length of the wads and the type of powder used will vary. For example, for a 28grm 7.5 clay shell I would use a 24mm wad but for a 32grm 6 pigeon shell I would need a 23mm wad. Look at the difference in sizes and you may ask, "What the hell difference is that going to make?" Believe me, a hell of a lot. The crimp will not close properly. This is why you have to do your research.

 

The type of powder is important as well. It is down to the speed with which it burns. I heard somewhere on the internet of someone using pistol powder in a rifle shell. It blew the barrel up. The post is further down the page. It is also important to get the quantities correct. Too much and the same thing will happen. Barrels can be replaced but faces, hands and what have you cannot.

 

There are plenty of people on here that are willing to help but you need to do your research first. Start simple and go from there. Don't jump in with both feet and expect to produce a cartridge that will shoot a gnats nuts at 1000yds straight away.

 

Dave.

Edited January 7, 2015 by Uncle Albert