ditchman Posted November 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2015 just to remind you ..this is what i started with..................1st post !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Farma Geddon Posted November 3, 2015 Report Share Posted November 3, 2015 (edited) Who ever would have thought a Landy diesel lump could look so good , tempted to say beautiful! I don't mean the old dirty pic . Edited November 3, 2015 by Farma Geddon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted November 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2015 no landrover or any other engine should look that bad...............................just a lack of "cant be bothered...maintenance" and driving everywhere like you stole it..!! this is the turbo-desiel i have in the landrover at the moment....i power wash it once every 4 or so mths....never leaks dosnt use any water and i top it up with oil once a mth....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TIGHTCHOKE Posted November 3, 2015 Report Share Posted November 3, 2015 Smashing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike737 Posted November 3, 2015 Report Share Posted November 3, 2015 That's posh, having a proper piston ring compressor, I used to make do with an opened-up baked beans tin for my motorcycles and the wife's Minis... Keep up the brilliant work - excellent feature ditchman! Mike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpringDon Posted November 5, 2015 Report Share Posted November 5, 2015 What seal is used for the flywheel housing? If it's the old style gallon of sealant, I have started using the 200 tdi gasket (err1440) that comes with ready bonded sealant and is much cleaner to use (and seems to work better) Never tried it with the o ring type housing but see no reason why it wouldn't work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted November 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2015 What seal is used for the flywheel housing? If it's the old style gallon of sealant, I have started using the 200 tdi gasket (err1440) that comes with ready bonded sealant and is much cleaner to use (and seems to work better) Never tried it with the o ring type housing but see no reason why it wouldn't work. i am using the press in seal on the housing...and the #5 journal has the "l"seals on it...see previous post...i will apply a little hylomar to the casing and press the seal in..i will also apply some silicon to the area around #5 journal prior to bolting together..oil leaks/drips out for several reasons.... crankcase breather...getting blocked seal face on the crank needs cleaning and smoothing off not degreasing when applying sealant poor installation of L seals on #5 dont forget that the oil level is BELOW all these joints/seals...so any oil that comes out starts off as a vapour in the sump/crankcase...the clue is in the title....oil seal....not gas seal...........every now and then ...maybe every 6 mths take the rocker box breather off and wash it in petrol....you will be surprised at the ammount of gunk that comes out........ im getting ready now to put the timing case on....and just checking i have all the bolts...i am missing 2 as these broke off from the donor engine...all the bolts will be going back in with copperslip.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted November 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2015 sump bolts...x 22....and timing case bolts... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viking Posted November 5, 2015 Report Share Posted November 5, 2015 now your just showing off with that last picture Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted November 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2015 now your just showing off with that last picture call me old fashioned....i just like to assemble everything and screw the bolts in with my fingers...then tighten up............i hate having to put a socket or a spanner on stuff ...just to crew them in....what was a bind becomes a pleasure..................... i used to have blokes doing this for me ....dedicated "bolt an' screw cleaners"....sadly i have to do it myself now ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpringDon Posted November 5, 2015 Report Share Posted November 5, 2015 L seal failures usually leak across the top of the sump gasket, rear crank seals leak into the flywheel housing and flywheel housing to block leak down the front of the housing. I agree that it's below the static oil level but when the engine is running, oil splashes all over the place . Indeed the landrover manual recommends using thread sealant on the housing bolts because there is so much chucked about. That joint is the most common leak point I've seen. Even landrover had 3 goes at it (4 if you count the early 10j) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
la bala Posted November 5, 2015 Report Share Posted November 5, 2015 Is that a magnetic dish ditchman, i know they are not much use for stainless bits, but i do find them useful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodp Posted November 5, 2015 Report Share Posted November 5, 2015 (edited) Is that a magnetic dish ditchman, i know they are not much use for stainless bits, but i do find them useful. Also not a lot of use on a defender wing Ask me how many times that point has been proven Edited November 5, 2015 by rodp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted November 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2015 L seal failures usually leak across the top of the sump gasket, rear crank seals leak into the flywheel housing and flywheel housing to block leak down the front of the housing. I agree that it's below the static oil level but when the engine is running, oil splashes all over the place . Indeed the landrover manual recommends using thread sealant on the housing bolts because there is so much chucked about. That joint is the most common leak point I've seen. Even landrover had 3 goes at it (4 if you count the early 10j) certainly right about that leak.....i think i have cracked it tho' as none of mine leak..........i cant stress enuff to degrease using acetone ...it has got to be spotless and use a proper landrover sealant.............i never use a sump gasket.........trouble is as it sticks so well it is nigh impossible to separate...as it sticks like poo to a blanket !! the other thing is DONT OVERFILL THE SUMP....i have in the past toyed with making the sump bigger and altering the oil pick up pipe....but what i do now is to slighty underfill it...and change oil every 6-7000 miles or at least bang a new filter on............ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpringDon Posted November 5, 2015 Report Share Posted November 5, 2015 What do you use instead of a gasket for the sump? And acetone possible to get in bulk? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted November 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2015 What do you use instead of a gasket for the sump? And acetone possible to get in bulk? i just use acetone...i can get a tin of it from glass fibre places...1litre tin...and i just use a tube of that black silicon sealer from JSF...and you get it right you need a hammer and sharp chisel to split the seal on the sump...NO GASKET............ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viking Posted November 6, 2015 Report Share Posted November 6, 2015 just read all this again from the beginning and i have to say its the most interesting post iv read in my 8 years on PW, and i dont even understand half of it nice one ditchman, keep up the good work, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted November 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 6, 2015 just read all this again from the beginning and i have to say its the most interesting post iv read in my 8 years on PW, and i dont even understand half of it nice one ditchman, keep up the good work, im looking forward to you getting your chassis back...and the re-build starting....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loriusgarrulus Posted November 6, 2015 Report Share Posted November 6, 2015 (edited) http://forums.pigeonwatch.co.uk/forums/uploads/monthly_11_2015/xpost-11401-0-72958600-1446729700.jpg.pagespeed.ic.IISaGaKEqq.webp Looks like a giant kilner jar seal. Edited November 6, 2015 by loriusgarrulus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted November 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 6, 2015 http://forums.pigeonwatch.co.uk/forums/uploads/monthly_11_2015/xpost-11401-0-72958600-1446729700.jpg.pagespeed.ic.IISaGaKEqq.webp Looks like a giant kilner jar seal. Typical girl................ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted November 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 6, 2015 cant do anymore to the engine at the moment until i get into norwich to pick up a few bits an' peices....so i thought i would clean up the sump pan.... WORD OF WARNING...in pic #3 there is the wire brush i use...this is A VERY DANGEROUS TOOL....wear gloves and eye protection cause it will eat you.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted November 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 6, 2015 whilst cleaning it i came across a fault in the steel..........this i think is a result of the steel rolling mill....slag inclusion.....the sump was pressed out then anodized....but it eventually after 30 years rotted out....so we need to clean it and braze or silver solder it....the steel is nearly 3mm thick so there is plenty of meat to play with Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord Geordie Posted November 6, 2015 Report Share Posted November 6, 2015 cant do anymore to the engine at the moment until i get into norwich to pick up a few bits an' peices....so i thought i would clean up the sump pan.... WORD OF WARNING...in pic #3 there is the wire brush i use...this is A VERY DANGEROUS TOOL....wear gloves and eye protection cause it will eat you.... Your not wrong either! I used one in my grinder to clean up a steel box, I have dress pants on at the time and I could feel the bristles hitting my legs! I never thought for one minute I would spend nearly an hour pulling the bristles out of my legs I first noticed when trying to remove my pants! They snagged on the things and I was in a air bit of discomfort for days afterward. I remember once using a grinder cutting a threaded rod, no PPE and the disc exploded in my face! Cut my eye brow my cheek and split my lip! Luckily I never lost an eye or anything! So wear goggles as a minimum! Oh and thick pants like jeans would help too :lol: :lol: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted November 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 6, 2015 cleaning it up and starting to braze with the oxy/acety....which is difficult as the anodizing has gone deep into the steel........be careful of the fumes it gives off......cyanide gas..............it will make you feel sick and "flu'y".... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord Geordie Posted November 6, 2015 Report Share Posted November 6, 2015 whilst cleaning it i came across a fault in the steel..........this i think is a result of the steel rolling mill....slag inclusion.....the sump was pressed out then anodized....but it eventually after 30 years rotted out....so we need to clean it and braze or silver solder it....the steel is nearly 3mm thick so there is plenty of meat to play with Had to fill the filler neck of my WagonR after trying to source a new neck! The original had a gaping hole in below the return pipe, fuel return was spilling out and I couldn;t fill the car without losing a good 10% under the car! I found one in a scrappy for £15 and took it home, cleaned it up "al la ditchman style" wire brush on a grinder, and it showed pock marks like your sump, in 3 areas it had holed, biggest being about 3mm. I cleaned it all back and fluxed the holes and used plumbers solder to repair the holes! Worked a flippin treat! Been on over a year now and I still get that reassuring HISSSS when i open the fuel cap to refil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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