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One for the woodworkers


Curly87
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I need to make up a small kitchen counter top from oak. 1500mm x 450mm x 55mm So currently have two 55mm air dried oak boards with waney edges that will need to be cut down, glued together, sanded and finished.

 

Have a few questions, and know there are some wood workers on here!

 

Do I need a different circular saw blade for cross cutting and ripping down the grain? Haven't got any at the moment.

 

Joining the two together, will just wood glue be enough (will have a metal supports running along the bottom with fixings but don't want the two to separate) or should it also be biscuit jointed or the likes of? Did see somewhere the mention of dumbbell fasteners but can't seem to find much more info on them.

 

Also any tips of clamping boards together that have both waney edges, so nothing square to clamp onto?

 

Then best finish for oak? Was going to used thinned linseed or wax.

 

Think that's all :) I'm a metalworker by trade so don't get to dabble in wood much!

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I would use a specific finish for kitchen worktops as I believe linseed is poisonous (although that could just be the boiled variety). Solid oak probably isn't the best material for a kitchen surface but if you do use it just be sure to thoroughly seal all the sides and underneath as oak will expand quite a bit if it gets damp so you risk ending up with a bowl rather than a flat surface.

I'm sure someone will give you proper advice soon. Good luck with it.

 

Edit: Oak will go black if you put damp metal on any unfinished or poorly finished parts so it is really important to get the finish right.

Edited by FalconFN
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First off joining two wide boards will lead to a total mess of a project, good practice would be to split these in to max 150mm boards and turn so the centre board is now opposing the outside two, this will prevent the board from cupping or twisting when joined to the other board that has also been split, same as the first 450 board.

 

On the underside small clamping blocks can be secured to the outermost boards and large sash cramps used to clamp the 900 board together from the underside leaving the waney edge on as desired.

 

Waterproof PVA glue should suffice with no need for biscuits, sanding and finishing oak is as hard as it gets, make sure all your tools are sharpened before you start and during the work.

 

Any good tungsten tipped blade will do, the more teeth the better finish and use the saw knife to prevent the blade jamming up and leaving a burn mark as its difficult to sand out totally, additionally prevent any water from the area as the steel clamps will react with the oak and result in a reaction to the contact area producing a blue indigo dye on the wood that is impossible to remove. (only oak does this)

 

As for the finish this will depend on what you are preparing on the surface, if it is food stuffs then a brand of wooden worktop oil is the safest all round, normally I use boiled linseed oil.

 

Chiefy

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I've done a few of these over the years, it's best to rip the boards down to a more manageable size as stated above, I usually cut a 4" plank on a 2" thick board and reverse every other board, i'm not sure if it actually works but I was told by my old gaffer that it helps counteract warpage. I would differ on the joints though, oak is a real bitch if it starts moving, all you need is a scratch or an unfinished edge and it'll go, I use a comb or finger joint depending on the thickness, and cascamite glue.

a good belt sander will help, with a final dust over with a random orbital sander. there are some good specific worktop oils out there, you'll need to rub down lightly again after the first coat.

as for cutting, I would use a medium toothed blade and take it slowly.

ta,

Paddy

Edited by Paddy Galore!
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Thanks all!

 

And thanks for the advice of getting it down to narrower boards, makes sense. Got enough to go with three 150mm, so will give that a bash.

 

Clancheif, the only bit I don't fully get is using a saw knife to prevent jamming? Can't say I've heard of such a thing.

 

Will post some pics once I've done the whole thing.

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Thanks all!

And thanks for the advice of getting it down to narrower boards, makes sense. Got enough to go with three 150mm, so will give that a bash.

Clancheif, the only bit I don't fully get is using a saw knife to prevent jamming? Can't say I've heard of such a thing.

Will post some pics once I've done the whole thing.

Riving knife, its already on your circular saw mate,

 

Atb

 

Flynny

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It's the curved bit that hangs down behind the blade to stop the cut closing up. Or get a joiner to rip them for you. I would use biscuits or Dominoes to reinforce the joint, also be careful if you use blocks underneath and clamps, as it will tend to curve the worktop by pulling underneath it only. I would pack the wany edges and clamp alternately top and bottom.

 

Hope this helps,

 

Mike.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Well thanks everyone who gave advice. Really happy with how it all turned out, as is the customer. Which is the main thing!

 

The brown oak wasn't too bad to work with and I now have all the tools in case I need to make another. Clamping was easy enough using a mixture of sash clamps and ratchet straps, leaving the bark on to save any damage to the wood.

 

1_zpsxqxa9pvo.jpg

 

 

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