sitsinhedges Posted October 31, 2015 Report Share Posted October 31, 2015 I was after some thoughts on reloading fibre on a progressive press. I've used a single stage for years but I really would like to use the Mec650 for these as well as plastic. It pumps plastic shells out so well once set up. The problem is trying to put an obturator and a fibre wad thru the wad guide, it just doesn't work very well and tends to crush the wad which leaves too much space in the case as they don't spring back like plastic wads do. I'm wondering if part of the answer is to remove the wad guide and put them in by hand which will be a bit of a pain. My second point is the crimps on fibre loads sometimes sinking over time, particularly in the summer when it's warm and the plastic is more pliable. I think this is caused by the fact that fibre wads don't spring back so when the shot settles and moves into the crimp folds etc it leaves space in the case where once there was none and warm weather in particular seems to encourage the crimps to then sink to the point of the shot falling out sometimes. Any ideas to help these problems out ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
figgy Posted October 31, 2015 Report Share Posted October 31, 2015 Do the same problems not happen with our usuall manufactured cartridges? Can you not use more wad so when it squashes it leaves you the correct amount of space for shot and crimping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snow white Posted October 31, 2015 Report Share Posted October 31, 2015 Do a roll turn shot can't fall out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sitsinhedges Posted October 31, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2015 Do the same problems not happen with our usuall manufactured cartridges? Can you not use more wad so when it squashes it leaves you the correct amount of space for shot and crimping. If I give the shell any more contents the case will collapse at the base. Do a roll turn shot can't fall out. I've done that in the past but it wont really work on a progressive press and there's also a debate as to whether the overshot card affects the pattern. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sitsinhedges Posted October 31, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2015 (edited) There is also an idea of putting a thin paper disc over the shot before crimping to stop it migrating into the crimp folds at a later date. Lot of trouble to go to though. Edited October 31, 2015 by sitsinhedges Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Farma Geddon Posted October 31, 2015 Report Share Posted October 31, 2015 If you rolled them , a plastic disc doesn't spoil patterns. You could set your machine to fold the crimp just flat and use a gaep head to finish , you would have to be careful still as you could easily crush the wad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coldweld Posted October 31, 2015 Report Share Posted October 31, 2015 I put 4 rice chrispy's on top of my shot, you can also use suger puffs ! to many and the case will swell above the brass. That will fill your case at a cheap price ( cheaper than over shot card ) and will not affect shot pattern. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest cookoff013 Posted October 31, 2015 Report Share Posted October 31, 2015 Having recipes that fill the hull is a godsend. Even still don't crush the wad. Change the wad guide to not crush. You can bodge the loader by taking off the guide. But that means virgin cases anyway. The wad can be crushed by final crimp. Makes eberytink tight. Forget crispies. It increases cost and makes the shells go snap crackle pop. Forget sugar puffs too. Sweet shooting though. Forget rto. A trillion rtos would take years. Paper under crimp? Un-nessa. I have in the past our plastic disc under cwimp but for steel onlly for the stack height and good crimp. I do good 70thou crimp. I use virgin hulls because of the this issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
panoma1 Posted October 31, 2015 Report Share Posted October 31, 2015 Why does the scenario you describe relating to sinking crimps not happen with commercially loaded fibre wad shells? How are they loaded differently? Could you not insert the obturator by hand after the powder drop (with the press is in the upper position) then insert the fibre wad with the press via the wad guide? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sitsinhedges Posted October 31, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2015 Why does the scenario you describe relating to sinking crimps not happen with commercially loaded fibre wad shells? How are they loaded differently? Could you not insert the obturator by hand after the powder drop (with the press is in the upper position) then insert the fibre wad with the press via the wad guide? It would seem the factory loaded shells have a looser fitting fibre wad that is inserted without any compression and then the shells are closed with a spinner. This suits new cases. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sitsinhedges Posted October 31, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2015 FWIW this is all relating to 20 gauge. The smaller gauges do seem to be more problematic compared to 12. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dipper Posted October 31, 2015 Report Share Posted October 31, 2015 Why does the scenario you describe relating to sinking crimps not happen with commercially loaded fibre wad shells? How are they loaded differently? Could you not insert the obturator by hand after the powder drop (with the press is in the upper position) then insert the fibre wad with the press via the wad guide? When I loaded felt wads with card wad the card would tilt sometimes to overcome this I glued card to wad .Would work with obturator a bit of a pain though you could also use cork over the felt wad to help it spring back. Could also use a polystyrene disk under crimp polystyrene can also be used for a RTO . Think I would stick with single stage press. Dipper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deershooter Posted November 1, 2015 Report Share Posted November 1, 2015 Use a piece of ally angle ( from B&Q ) as a guide, glue the over powder card to the wad one spot of super glue should do stack them up as you do them Job sorted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sitsinhedges Posted November 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2015 Thanks to everyone who has tried to help, by phone, text and PM as well as on this thread. I've found that changing the type of obturator has made a huge difference and that this and the wad go thru the wad fingers far more easily meaning the wad is squashed far less and the crimps are perfect Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbo33 Posted November 1, 2015 Report Share Posted November 1, 2015 Sits, if the wad guide is the same on your loader as it is on the Mec jnr, I found the fingers were the problem. The fibre wads get hung up on them ( not so on the Lee Loadall ). So I just nipped them off with a Stanley knife. Problem sorted and no compression dents in the wad. It seems your sorted anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sitsinhedges Posted November 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2015 Sits, if the wad guide is the same on your loader as it is on the Mec jnr, I found the fingers were the problem. The fibre wads get hung up on them ( not so on the Lee Loadall ). So I just nipped them off with a Stanley knife. Problem sorted and no compression dents in the wad. It seems your sorted anyway. The newer obturators that I'm using are .65mm smaller in diameter than the old ones so slide thru so much more easily. Getting great looking shells now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawkeye Posted November 2, 2015 Report Share Posted November 2, 2015 (edited) Can load fiber wads in my ponsness warren 800 no problem, but it is slower than using plas wads. but i always finish them with a number4 roll in drill makes a lovely crimp and it recycles in auto very well if needed.. Edited November 2, 2015 by hawkeye Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sitsinhedges Posted November 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2015 I loaded a good bucketful of shells this afternoon with 10kg of 5 shot I bought from John at FES a while ago when my homemade shot was in short supply. It's all working well now with the better obturators though I did notice an increase in crimp folds splitting on the pre crimp die. I think fibre loads thru the wad guide puts more pressure on the crimp and results in this but as long as they are noticed I can straighten them up with pin nosed pliers so they look right. Went out in the fog with the Husher to blow off the handful of rejects and got nine pigeons for my trouble, stood against a hedge on a flightline Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.