mick miller Posted March 18, 2016 Report Share Posted March 18, 2016 (edited) Firstly, as the yoot of today say, massive props (not a clue what that is but anyway) to Old No7, without whom I couldn't have got this off the concept table. Without his advice, circuit diagrams, coding and support I would have been stuffed! This is my first case annealer. LCD read out, 60rpm case turntable, accepts two sizes of cases everything from 17 hornet up to 308 and possibly bigger. Easily adjustable torch height, adjustable speed. lightweight and can run off either a wall PSU 12v or lithium battery (portable). I designed all the parts in 3D and printed the supports and boxes etc. then got the plates laser cut from my 3D design. Watch as I try and clumsily film myself loading it one handed and burn my thumb twice! Edited March 18, 2016 by mick miller Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rem708 Posted March 18, 2016 Report Share Posted March 18, 2016 Excellent Job :good: One suggestion. I found using propane/butane too cool to get more localised anealing so I have been using MAPP gas instead. The burners don't produce such a needle heat source but the increase heat does stop heat traveling too far down the case body. Next batch I do I will use Oxy Propane as that is even hotter. Is that centre stepper motor geared? The reason I ask is the steps on the motor can be fairly large and you might loose registration if the load gets high or something drags especially as I can see no position sensor. Keep up the research! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mick miller Posted March 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2016 The spindle floats when the power is off so registration is set before powering up. There should be no drag as the surface is smooth and the plate is floating 3mm off the surface. I'll have a look at registration though so thanks for the suggestions. I had read NOT to use MAPP gas as it was considered to be too hot, I'll do a little more research, using tempilaq the heat isn't transferred more than about 5mm below the shoulder on 243 case, which sounds about right doesn't it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted March 18, 2016 Report Share Posted March 18, 2016 where is the water bath for the cases to drop into ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mentalmac Posted March 18, 2016 Report Share Posted March 18, 2016 where is the water bath for the cases to drop into ?? Looks like it's underneath, they fall down into it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mick miller Posted March 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2016 You don't need a water bath, just a tin underneath to catch the cases, there is a low baking tin underneath. Quenching in water doesn't do anything really, although you could argue that it would stop any heat wicking down to the head. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mick miller Posted March 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2016 This has some good info: http://www.massreloading.com/annealing.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted March 18, 2016 Report Share Posted March 18, 2016 that is a cracking machine you have put together..............its just that i was under the impression that brass and copper need to be quenched in water to retain the softness once it has reached the required heat........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mick miller Posted March 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2016 Nope. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harnser Posted March 18, 2016 Report Share Posted March 18, 2016 Much more advanced than putting cases in a bowel of water up to the necks and using a blow lamp on them and then tipping them over into the water . Harnser Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dougy Posted March 18, 2016 Report Share Posted March 18, 2016 Looks very nice And the question is Will you be going into production ? and, how much ? and, can I have one please ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1066 Posted March 19, 2016 Report Share Posted March 19, 2016 Well done Mick, excellent job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mick miller Posted March 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2016 Thank you, but without the invaluable help and tips from Old No7 I would have been stuffed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old_n07 Posted March 21, 2016 Report Share Posted March 21, 2016 You shouldn't need to register the disc fo the ammounts a home loader does in one sitting, I looked at using an optical sensor to index the disc an set the initial position but I found that once set the disc held position for over 30 minutes constant which equated to over 200 .308 cases being processed, the only time it gets out of sequence is if a case gets stuck and doesn't drop out of the disc hence the knocker that is visible in Mick's video and photo's although mine is not in direct line of fire from the torch. Cracking job Mick, yours is deffinitely tidier than mine on the underside Glad I could help out, it's been interesting to see how you have modified the initial idea to suit your skills and available resources to build your system , I think I need one of your LCD mounts to tidy up the top siide of mine now Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mick miller Posted March 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2016 Finisher? I'm sure I can do that and supply a cut-out print out. I concur about registration. I was a bit concerned after the point was raised and last night ran 200 22 hornet round as a test. It didn't lose registration once. Provided the turntable is set at the correct height it shouldn't catch. That does take a little fiddling but once set it stays put. The only improvement I could think of would be to have the turntable start when the case is central over it, rather than constantly rotating. Not sure if its really worth doing though. As for the kicker, well, it looks like its in the line of fire and should get hot, but it isn't. The discolouration is from when I first fired up the torch (with it set too low) and then wandered off to find some small hornet cases, when I came back it was a little hot I have to admit! But normally it sits just under the flame when annealing a 22 hornet. I might swap it out for a clean one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dekers Posted March 21, 2016 Report Share Posted March 21, 2016 Compliments! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave-G Posted March 21, 2016 Report Share Posted March 21, 2016 Brilliant piece of workmanship there again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
malkiserow Posted March 21, 2016 Report Share Posted March 21, 2016 Ace Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mick miller Posted March 29, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2016 I've made a few small adjustments. Replaced the burnt case kicker, changed the central drilled disc drive and added a thumb screw so that the position of the disc can easily be fine tuned. I've successfully annealed all my old 243 brass and the 22 hornet brass resized to 17. Tomorrow I'll be designing and printing Neil's LCD screen finisher and then I'm going to make another one! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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