Centrefire scope on rimfire?

[Houseplant]

It seems like I may have got some bad advice when I bought a scope for my CZ452 .22LR. I wanted something reasonably decent, so went for a Leupold VX1 3-9x40mm. I'm pretty happy with the results, good groupings at 25, 50 and 75 metres, but the occasional shot does seem to go astray and I've missed the odd bunny when I was convinced it was in the bag, so it got me thinking.

 

I emailed Leupold and they confirmed that the parallax is set to 150 yards, way beyond 75 metres which is my comfortable shooting distance. Questions are:

 

1) Do you think parallax is that big a deal?

 

2) If I replaced it with an adjustable objective "centrefire" scope would this solve the problem? Would there be any other issues with this kind of scope on my .22LR?

 

3) This is just out of interest, for those shooting 100 metres plus with a rimfire, say a .17HMR, what parallax setting do you go for?

 

Please correct me if I'm wrong, I don't think this is about "rimfire scopes" versus "centrefire scopes", it's just a matter of where the parallax is set. I understand there may be issues with putting a rimfire scope on a centrefire rifle with respect to recoil/durability, but my interest is in the other way round.

 

If I end up replacing the Leupold, I'm not too concerned as it will go on a centrefire rifle which I will buy in due course.

[Hendrix's rifle]

I set my parallax to when ever it is crisp through the scope on my Hawke. Get on target, turn objective lens until clear, work out range and happy days usually

[Houseplant]

OK, so that's an adjustable objective scope. Unfortunately the VX1 is fixed.

[neil w]

Put a 6×42 on it. Good for 80 yard shots on vermin,or on paper the world is your oyster.

[Bangbangman]

OK, so that's an adjustable objective scope. Unfortunately the VX1 is fixed.

Many scopes can have the parallax adjusted: have a Google:

 

eg. http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=94809

 

If, while pointing at a target at your most commonly missed range, the point of aim appears to move when you move your head then you may have a problem with parallax. So many other things can cause occasional fliers...

Edited March 26, 2016 by Bangbangman

[kyska]

VX1 on a HMR is fine, stop worrying,

[Houseplant]

VX1 on a HMR is fine, stop worrying,

I wouldn't if I was shooting longer ranges with a HMR, I'm not though. Shooting shorter ranges with a .22LR

[neil w]

 

I wouldn't if I was shooting longer ranges with a HMR, I'm not though. Shooting shorter ranges with a .22LR [/quote

The range you quote, that you shoot.And one or two goes a stray is it the scope that's at fault .Or it could be you.

[Houseplant]

Or it could be you.

 

Absolutely, just want the odds in my favour as far as possible.

[Underdog]

I have a Leopold on my wmr. Not noticed any issues with P error.

Dodgy old and fat syndrome is worse for me!

[Guest]

Parallax is certainly worse at closer ranges than further (out several hundred yards). That said its not so much of a problem as to make you a whole animals head.

Unfortunately I would assess the problem to be something else. I would be looking at duff rounds given you reported flyers, or simply more practice?

Edited March 27, 2016 by Guest

[welshwarrior]

I think your just missing it happens. The man who has never missed has never shot

There are two types a shooter those that miss and liars.

[team tractor]

I think your just missing it happens. The man who has never missed has never shot

There are two types a shooter those that miss and liars.

This is to true

[Houseplant]

OK, so consensus so far seems to be stop worrying. I can live with that!

[team tractor]

Crank the mag down if it goes blurred

[kent]

Parallax can be minimised by using no more objective than you need and by looking directly down the tube centrally. I use a 6x 42 s+bender used to use a 3-9x40 leupold

Never missed as a result of parallax

[Kalahari]

It might help (this is free advice and worth what you pay for it) to move the scope about a bit to really make sure it suits you eye position when you are comfortably welded to the stock. Sometimes we don't get that quite sorted and this makes things a bit more difficult. A fairly cheap solution if it works.

 

Best wishes,

 

David.

[rwade545]

Why don't you check to see if parallax is present? The closer and greater the magnification the more it affects you.

If I have scope at 25x mag and a target 25 m away with the scope set to infinity I can move the poi by a few inches by moving my head. Turn magnification down and it dramatically reduces.

If you put a target at 80 yards, put the gun on a stable platform, eg bipod and a rest at rear to keep it on target, and set magnification to max. If when you move your head side ways/ up down and the cross hairs move then there is some parallex.

Ways of fixing it are to ensure you scope is mounted with correct eye relief

Ensure you have a consistent cheek weld to the stock to stop your head moving

Practice

 

Hope that helps

[Savhmr]

I used to have a VX1 3-9 x 40 for a while on a rimmy and it was fine. If shooting close range, you don't need high mag. Leave it set to 5 or 6 x mag and keep your eye central to the Image and you'll have no worries. As Underdog has said, there's those that miss and those that lie. Its more probably you pulled a shot than missed by a few inches due to parallax. Try this. Set the scope at 6 x mag. Put up a target with a thick cross-hair drawn on it at 50 yards and some thick vertical lines an inch apart across the page. Look through the scope and move your head from side to side. You might see a little movement of the ret from the centre towards one side or other but it shouldn't be much, especially at 6 x. This will also help you focus on a consistent head position for each shot which is important. That should ease your mind. If it jumps a foot, then get worried (it wont).

Edited March 28, 2016 by Savhmr