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Splitting Non Toxic Wads


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Personally I've found splitting Non Toxic Wads a right Pain in the Bottom.

Yesterday i decided to try and make the job easier. I hacked Sawed 4 splits into a Tube that was a snug fit inside a 12ga Wads spot welded a Stanley blade into the splits broke a Stanley blade in half spot welded those 2 half's into the other splits.

Opposite end of blades with Liquid Metal/Putty fitted a 6mm bolt inside the tube then bolted the Wads Cutter to my Cartridge finishing Press.

Not pretty BUT works a treat cuts 4 even parallel splits

IF i still had access to a Engineering Workshop the Wads Snitter could/can be made with easy changing Blades and No Blades sticking out as mine.

It works it's easy and I've still got all my fingers

post-22823-0-28727700-1464439736_thumb.jpgpost-22823-0-10909600-1464439768_thumb.jpgpost-22823-0-83839400-1464439782_thumb.jpg

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Looks like it does a good job , it is a pain in the **** to split loads especially the tougher wads like the sam 1s.

Don't sam 1 do ready split?

 

Why are plastic wads split? Is it just so they open and separate early (on leaving the barrel) from the shot charge, Or is there a ballistical reason for splitting wads? I just cut them 4 ways 3/4 of the way down (as accurately as I can by hand) with a Stanley knife! They seem to work!

A simple, safe well engineered wad cutter for different gauges would be on my shopping list though!

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Don't sam 1 do ready split?

 

Why are plastic wads split? Is it just so they open and separate early (on leaving the barrel) from the shot charge, Or is there a ballistical reason for splitting wads? I just cut them 4 ways 3/4 of the way down (as accurately as I can by hand) with a Stanley knife! They seem to work!

A simple, safe well engineered wad cutter for different gauges would be on my shopping list though!

Not anymore I believe they did at one stage certainly the last three lots I have brought have all been unsplit .

 

More to do with patterns than ballistics obviously a unsplit wad is going to leave the barrel much like a solid slug for a distance where a split one will start to distribute the shot much sooner.

 

I spit my wads right to the base and they seem to pattern better for me like that , if you want a tighter pattern at long range then splitting three ways can help.

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I know nothing about loading carts and won't pretend I do,so just out of curiosity can you re-use plastic wads

Been at mid wales SG after a big trap comp and the field is white with wads ?

 

No they cannot be reused for loading.

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Looks like it does a good job , it is a pain in the **** to split loads especially the tougher wads like the sam 1s.

Thanks FB i done a 250 bag of LBC in minutes.

So far it's worked very well on 2-3/4" B&P and LBC - 3" B&P and LBC and 3-1/2" TPS ( 6 i tried off my father as I don't use 3-1/2" ).

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You can buy a tool for the job OMV make one, however it is always nice to DIY, does not look to difficult to copy the OMV one.

http://www.omv.it/kit-taglia-borre/

Thanks never realised that. Before I reloaded for my 12ga a few years ago a Gent on the Wildfowling Forum made a very good one.

Yes you are right IF you have access to the Tools and a bit of knowledge they are easy enough to make

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The reason for splitting is to allow the wad to stop in-flight rather than turn.

 

If you leave it uncut, shortly after leaving the barrel, the wad will turn with pellets still inside making it, in fact a slug ... with all the added dangers.

 

The wings you create, will help the wad losing its speed faster than the pellets, allowing all pellets to leave the wad; hence allowing the air resistance to stop it.

 

to avoid the pellets touching the barrel you should not cut the wad to its full length but leave part of the bottom half uncut; the theory is to calculate 1/3 of the internal diameter; this will be the length of uncut wad you should have, but 2-3 mm will do as well.

 

I'd always try and pattern one shell each to make sure which cut patterns best.

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Guest cookoff013

Does splitting them not allow steel shot to contact the barrel along the cuts?

 

no, can i give you a technical response?

the 12 chamber is about 800thou, the barrel is alot less, the forcing cone feeds the wad into the barrel diameter which is smaller than the chamber.

the funnel effect squeezes the petals close. no shot should be able to come through, although different brandings / models etc (some are better than others)

 

when i bought some wads i rodded them through my 12gauge to see how tight they were, i can tell you they are "tight".

 

coo

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