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Advice on chainsaw please


herby
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U have never said wot size of timber ur cutting?

 

A 365 is a proper mans saw, not cheap but very good saws, possibly to good for an occasional user. I use saws a fair bit but stil bought a cheap efco 40cc thing for just knocking about with/occasional use tp save my bringing out my bigger saws

 

Most pro users rarely use a bar bigger than 18" for normal work, i have dropped some very big trees with 15 and 16" bars.

Different story if ur butting off hardwoods all day but thats a more specialised job anyway and even a 24" will often struggle

 

I'd say buy the bar/saw combo that suits wot ur cutting best. If u only ever cut stuff 1ft wide timber stick to a 13-15" bar and a nice lightwieght saw esp if on 325 chain.(the husky 353 is a cracking lightwieght but gutsy little saw)

If ur doing bigger stuff buy a bigger bar/saw but no point running a big saw/bar to cut fresh air on the other side of the log, just wasting fuel and buying dear equipment thats not really needed.

Ur also just asking for an accident by having a bigger bar than needed,far more chance of u catching something on the far side of log whie ur watching the cut and getting kickback, or cutting into things u weren't expecting as ur not paying attention to tip of bar.

Even just working the saw be far nicer to work a smaller nimblier saw than some big heavy 1 with a muckle bar that is not really needed, just tires u out and horrible to use

 

Even if u occasional get a bigger log u can cross cut it from both sides anyway so a 15" bar will log almost 30" logs, its a pain but it will do it if needed.

 

I'd also 2nd getting some training esp if running about with a 24" bar

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I have a Husqvarna 136 and its over 5 years old, it has had literally tons of use and is a fantastic little saw. During the winter I cut loads of wood for burning and just tidying around a paddock and wood that I own, this little beast copes with anything and everything I throw at it. Seriously, you won't go far wrong with a Husqvarna. I personally put them on par with Stihl, actually better on the smaller models.

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Did I hear someone mentioning a 'Proper Mans Saw'.? Here is my Old Girl. Seen a lot of Work but Still Runs Well. I think Santa may be bringing me a New Baby version with a 16" Bar.

Apoligies for being sacrilegious bringing up Stihl on a Husqvarna thread. :lol:

 

 

 

WP_20161016_17_00_15_Pro_zpspdha2sgc.jpg

 

WP_20161016_17_01_39_Pro_zpsalaly9ye.jpg

 

I have the same saw its an absolute beast, great saw but not for a novice

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Thanks everyone for your sound input.

 

I am going to be using it for disking felled trees occasional work use but wanted a fair size decent saw that has got the power if needed and length as no body likes to lend out a chainsaw.

 

I ordered the 365 with 20 inch bar and will order a 16 from the link above.

 

Also looking for a 14-16 inch second hand saw I can use for normal use and cutting roots with old bar and chain to remove stumps since my mac 842 gave up.

 

For about the first time I have ordered all the gear, normally cut in jeans t-shirt and steel toes. After my friend pointed out how the trousers and gloves work as I thought they were just padded and they actually stop the chain!!

 

Link for those not seen it before

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Did I hear someone mentioning a 'Proper Mans Saw'.? Here is my Old Girl. Seen a lot of Work but Still Runs Well. I think Santa may be bringing me a New Baby version with a 16" Bar.

Apoligies for being sacrilegious bringing up Stihl on a Husqvarna thread. :lol:

 

 

 

WP_20161016_17_00_15_Pro_zpspdha2sgc.jpg

 

WP_20161016_17_01_39_Pro_zpsalaly9ye.jpg

 

I have the same saw its an absolute beast, great saw but not for a novice

 

Totally agree. Apoligies to the OP for the interuption.

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Huskie for me, I have a 136 13" bar, which gets as much work as anything, a 55 with a 15" bar which is nearly 20 years old and and works very well, a 372 with a 24" bar for big stuff. The only thing any of them have had is plugs, filters, chains and bars but they are cleaned and checked regularly. Do a course and learn to maintain your kit and keep safe, it will pay for itself over a few years.

 

David.

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As a former tree surgeon and production feller I can fully endorse scotslad.

 

Avoid the 24" bar it's too much for the saw, especially if even slightly dull. I run my 390xp on a 24 and that's about the perfect combo at that size IMHO.

 

You would be amazed at what a decent saw with a 15" bar can do.

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When i'm felling outsiders (oversized trees to big for harvesters) it usually just with a 15-18" bar and very rarely do i need to put a larger bar on my 372xp.

 

I would say the same as above, esp if ur cutting mainly hardwoods (and esp so if already dead and drying out,) a 24" bar will be to big (unless u dropped ur chain size) i run my 372 on an 18" bar 95% of time and thats cutting softwoods with a saw with a bit more grunt than ur looking at, but it absolutely flies throu timber

 

Really worth being shown how to handle a saw either on a course or by a decent pro user that shows u the correct safe ways (not neccessarily how he does it) and even how to sharpen a chain properly, makes a massive difference to ur cutting, the difference between a sharp and blunt chain is massive be like doubling the cc of ur saw

 

My advice to anyone wanting a saw would be look at wot u cut most and buy a saw/bar combo that suits 80% of wot u cut, and buy the saw with that sized bar in the middle of its capabilities/range, rather than always having a saw struggle with a bar far to big for it. I always ran 50-60cc saws up to about 16" bars and 72cc 18-22" bars

Even if u regularly cut/disc big hardwoods, unless u have a tractor/machine available, a 3-4ft disc takes some man handling about so ur as well blocking pieces with a smaller bar anyway

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Is the '5' series not all computerised and non adjustable carb's? Some have primers too which can be a good thing but do get ate by mice or pricked by branches etc, and ur saw won't go.

Must admit never looked at those saws as too inbetween sizes for me so not really sure which is best, but most of the XP saws are excellent

 

They brought a new 575 out to replace the old 372 but still make the old 1 as it is sooo good and demand is still high for it atlest in my local saw shops.

A lot to be said for good old fashioned saws with adjustable carbs and parts u can fix without needing a laptop.

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560xp is a powerful felling saw, although of the new generation and subsequently less robust than the older 3 series.

 

As scotslad says it's got an electronic carb, so you cannot adjust it.

 

Be aware that husqvarna uk are not covering their 5 series xp saws under warranty unless used with xp 2 stroke oil.

Edited by Sussex gardener
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560xp is a powerful felling saw, although of the new generation and subsequently less robust than the older 3 series.

 

As scotslad says it's got an electronic carb, so you cannot adjust it.

 

Be aware that husqvarna uk are not covering their 5 series xp saws under warranty unless used with xp 2 stroke oil.

Another reason to use Aspen. Husqvarna run saws up in factory on the stuff

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I take it Aspen is covered on the warranty then??

 

I have heard with aspen u can't chop and change back to petrol as it reacts or something and really corrodes fuel lines, is that true??

Must admit never used the stuff

 

I think running saws on there own 2 stroke mix is just another scam, that cheapish Efco saw i just bought says the exact same and have to use efco 2 stroke and its just a normal basic saw/carb.

Althou seemingly it needs synthetic 2 stroke, not sure wot my normal stuff is usually just buy a gallon off decent quality stuff.

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I take it Aspen is covered on the warranty then??

 

I have heard with aspen u can't chop and change back to petrol as it reacts or something and really corrodes fuel lines, is that true??

Must admit never used the stuff

 

I think running saws on there own 2 stroke mix is just another scam, that cheapish Efco saw i just bought says the exact same and have to use efco 2 stroke and its just a normal basic saw/carb.

Althou seemingly it needs synthetic 2 stroke, not sure wot my normal stuff is usually just buy a gallon off decent quality stuff.

If they do use it in the factory (seems logical as machines can sit on the shelf for years) most use normal fuel so can't see a problem chopping and changing. It is just fuel made from the fumes of normal petrol so more refined. That is just my humble opinion btw

Edited by herby
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Sounds like a way of getting you to buy their 2 stroke or riddling out of a warranty repair. I have bought a litre just to get me started till I can find a cheaper replacement oil.

 

Unfortunately husqvarna are doing a lot of warranty work on seized up saws of late, the newer xp saws are not upto the mark of the old screamers and they will wriggle out of it if they can.

I've heard talk of the carbs being lab tested to ensure it was running husqvarna 2t at point of seizure.

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A friend told me he knew someone with a new Husky that seized but his Stihl was never right from new and been back to Stihl a few times and they can't fix it and told him it was the way he was using it. I watched as he cut through a log and took the power off and it just cut out, near enough every time.

 

I just looked at the manual that came with it and states Husqvarnas own or a good quality 2 stroke oil to be used.

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Must admit never seen the logic in paying good money on a decent saw then scrimping on either 2 stroke, bars or chains. Look after ur saw and chain and it will look after u.

 

Really buttons in comparision, even for a pro user, so a hobby user would never notice any difference by saving a few quid on inferior oil or chains, really a false economy.

 

Must admit i used to be quite precise when measuring my 2 stroke mixes but in recent years i've started to add extra 2 stoke to the mix after advice from a decent 2 stroke mechanic and it doesnae make ur saw smoke muh more, but mibee different with these fancy electronic carbs and fancy saws.

 

Plenty of saws sieze no matter wot colour/sticker is on it, sometime operator error (probably mainly) but sometime bad saw/model

The husky 357xp was the best advert for stihl could ever have had, working it hard in woods lucky to get 8 months out of them, unfortunately it replaced the near indestructable 254xp, 1 of best saws ever made.

Most top end husky's or stihls are really decent saws, but u do get the odd bad model, i've heard the new stihl climbing saw is a heap of junk too? again a newer version replacing on the undesputed best climbeing saw ever made the ms200.

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