Brixsmaid Posted February 10, 2017 Report Share Posted February 10, 2017 Just happened upon this Magic Bore Shotgun cleaning system, can't decide if its any better than normal/traditional cleaning gear! Mind you not cheap the Hand Kit cost £60.00 plus £10.00 P&P and a lot of it is consumable!! Maybe its aimed at the "all the gear, no idea types" then again maybe its brilliant. Still undecided on Napier Ultra Clean cleaning system over conventional, mainly because I'm too tight to buy some and try it! Any thoughts peoples? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon R Posted February 10, 2017 Report Share Posted February 10, 2017 At first glance it appears to be a Paradox type bore cleaner with a bronze brush stuck on the end. Looks expensive for what it is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brixsmaid Posted February 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2017 Pretty much my thoughts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TIGHTCHOKE Posted February 10, 2017 Report Share Posted February 10, 2017 People are constantly trying to re-invent the wheel too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sportsbob Posted February 10, 2017 Report Share Posted February 10, 2017 A boresnake on a stick for £70, yeah right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sportsbob Posted February 10, 2017 Report Share Posted February 10, 2017 A Napier mega mop without the brush on the end http://www.avalon-guns.com/avalon/Napier-Mega-Mop.html £15.14 or an evilbay for about £18 delivered. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fortune Posted February 10, 2017 Report Share Posted February 10, 2017 Mind you not cheap the Hand Kit cost £60.00 plus £10.00 P&P and a lot of it is consumable!! "all the gear, no idea types" I noticed that he used what sounded like a scotchbrite pad on the action (bad) and then wiped both the metal and wood with the same oil! This should be mineral oil for the metal and vegetable oil for the wood. If that is considered to be cleaning a shotgun barrel I would like to have a go at them with a phosphor bronze brush and Ed's Red and bog roll. All of this just pulling something though a barrel a couple of times just takes the loose top dirt. The black that comes out from the barrels is a lot. Nothing compares to elbow grease you might have to get your hands dirty though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sportsbob Posted February 10, 2017 Report Share Posted February 10, 2017 (edited) I noticed that he used what sounded like a scotchbrite pad on the action (bad) and then wiped both the metal and wood with the same oil! I also noticed that and commented to the wife who replied "he didn`t seem to know what he was doing" Edited February 10, 2017 by sportsbob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
figgy Posted February 10, 2017 Report Share Posted February 10, 2017 Napier ultra clean and cleanzoil or ed red is all I need. Cleans my guns in no time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon R Posted February 10, 2017 Report Share Posted February 10, 2017 Someone posted the DIY formula for Ed's Red a few days ago - anyone remember what it was. From memory:- One part acetone One part ATF One part ? ??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrowningB525 Posted February 10, 2017 Report Share Posted February 10, 2017 Someone posted the DIY formula for Ed's Red a few days ago - anyone remember what it was. From memory:- One part acetone One part ATF One part ? ??? One part white spirit One part paraffin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Westley Posted February 10, 2017 Report Share Posted February 10, 2017 I just use a clean cartridge, makes gun cleaning very easy ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon R Posted February 10, 2017 Report Share Posted February 10, 2017 BrowningB525 - thanks for that. My memory must be going - I'm sure someone said it could be made from three rather than four ingredients. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fortune Posted February 10, 2017 Report Share Posted February 10, 2017 It was me, I think, I'm not well. Anyway have a stir through this lot. The short bit is at the bottom. >> As a general bore cleaner, plastic wad remover, and carbon solvent the following formula, a creation of C.E Harris, and dubbed "Ed's Red" works quite well. In fact many folks claim it is better than anything they've tried. The original formula is: 1 part Dexron II, IIe or III Automatic Transmission Fluid - GM Spec D20265 or later 1 part K1 Kerosene 1 part Aliphatic Mineral Spirits federal spec TT-T-2981F (CAS# 64741-49-9) or Stodard Solvent/Varsol (CAS#8052-41-1) 1 part Acetone (CAS#67-64-1) Formula Addendum It has been reported that methyethylketone/MEK (CAS#78-93-3) can be satisfactorily substituted for the acetone if desired. It has been reported that Turpentine can be satisfactorily substituted for the Mineral Spirits if desired. The original Frankford Arsenal formula upon which Ed's Red is based used turpentine rather than mineral spirits which were substituted for lower cost. Turpentine also tends to leave a gummy residue. It has been reported that Kroil penetrating oil can be satisfactorily substituted for the kerosene if desired. It has been reported that the lower numbered "JP" jet fuels can be used in place of kerosene. It has been reported that Goo-Gone (a commercial citrus based solvent) can be satisfactorily substituted for the mineral spirits if desired. It has been reported that commercial automotive "engine flush" can be substituted for the ATF (but you lose the red color). For each gallon of Ed's Red produced you can also add 1 pound of anhydrous lanolin (CAS#8006-54-0), which helps to neutralize fingerprints but it's really not necessary and current formulations generally omit it. You can also leave out the acetone but then it doesn't remove plastic wad fouling or penetrate as well. Store in airtight chemical-proof containers as the acetone, if used, will evaporate. Two sources for bulk anhydrous lanolin are http://www.selectoil...SO-Lanolin.html and http://www.thesage.com/ . According to Ed, "Ed's Red" will flow at -65oF and won't carbonize at 600oF. It has seen use by both the FBI and the Army Marksmanship Training Units. MIXING INSTRUCTIONS Mix outdoors, in good ventilation. Use a clean 1 gallon metal, or chemical-resistant, heavy gage NFPA approved plastic gasoline storage containers. Do NOT use light weight, thin, high density polyethelyne (HDPE), which is breathable, because the acetone will gradually evaporate. Don't use PVC containers as they will dissolve. A possible online source for metal 1 pint and 1 quart screw top metal containers suitable for storing Ed's Red is http://www.taxidermy.com . This site appears to be some sort of frames based design that does not allow you to link directly to containers, but you can find them via the following site links Products | Molding and Casting | Containers, Cups and Tools. The Blitz USA line of approved gasoline containers can be obtained at Auto Zone, Home Depot, Walmart, Target, and other retailers and are what I use. (www.blitzusa.com). Add the ATF first. Use the empty container to measure the other components, so that it is thoroughly rinsed. You can divert a small quantity, up to 4 ounces per quart of the 50-50 ATF/kerosene mix for use as an "Ed's Red-compatible" gun oil. This can be done without impairing the effectiveness of the mix. INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING a) Insure that the firearm is unloaded and that all magazines are removed. Cleaning is most effective when done while the barrel is still warm to the touch from firing. Saturate a cotton patch with Ed's Red, wrap or impale on a jag and push it through the bore from breech to muzzle. The patch should be a snug fit. Let the first patch fall off and do not pull it back into the bore. b) Wet a second patch, and similarly start it into the bore from the breech, this time scrubbing from the throat area forward in 4-5" strokes and gradually advancing until the patch emerges out the muzzle. Waiting approximately 1 minute to let the bore cleaner soak will improve its action. c. For pitted, heavily carbon-fouled "rattle battle" guns, leaded revolvers or neglected bores a bronze brush wet with bore cleaner may be used to remove stubborn deposits. This is unnecessary for smooth, target-grade barrels in routine use. d) Use a final wet patch pushed straight through the bore to flush out loosened residue dissolved by Ed's Red. Let the patch fall off the jag without pulling it back into the bore. If you are finished firing, leaving the bore wet will protect it from rust for up to 30 days. If the lanolin is incorporated into the mixture, it will protect the firearm from rust for up to two years. e) Wipe spilled Ed's Red from exterior surfaces before storing the gun. While Ed's Red is harmless to blue and nickel finishes, the acetone it contains is harmful to most wood finishes and it could damage some plastics if left in prolonged contact. f) Before firing again, push two dry patches through the bore and dry the chamber, using a patch wrapped around a suitably sized brush or jag. First shot point of impact usually will not be disturbed by Ed's Red if the bore is cleaned as described. It has been reported that when Ed's Red is used exclusively and thoroughly, that hot water cleaning is unnecessary after use of Pyrodex or military chlorate primers. However, if bores are not wiped between shots and are heavily caked from black powder fouling, hot water cleaning is recommended first to break up heavy fouling deposits. Water cleaning should be followed by a thorough flush with Ed's Red to prevent after-rusting which could result from residual moisture. It is ALWAYS good practice to clean twice, two days apart, whenever using chlorate primed ammunition, just to make sure you get all the residue out. Thanks to Jim Dodd for the above instructions An unusual use for Ed's Red. Several correspondents report that an application of ER to an ant hill, especially fire ants, kills 'em dead. Also, Ed's Red is very penetrative and makes a superior penetrating oil for loosening rusted parts. In fact in some testing by a machinist's magazine a couple of years ago it beat all the commercial products by a wide margin. A dedicated ER penetrating solution can be made by just using a 50-50 mix of ATF and acetone. A historical note about Ed's Red. When Ed Harris first cooked it up, it exceeded the then current Mil Specs for bore cleaner and CLP. Ed and a cohort were able to test it at a defense contractor's quality lab after hours with chrome-moly and stainless samples provided by Kreiger. Edit To simplify all of the above basically it is acitone mixed with automatic transmission oil and white spirit. God that shifts fouling of all sorts out of the barrels. If you're using one of those bore snake things and you think that the barrels are clean you would have a shock if you used this stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psycho Posted February 10, 2017 Report Share Posted February 10, 2017 Use napper ultra clean but put a small amount on an old brush..just need a little bit works a treat and conserves the cloth...works a treat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fortune Posted February 10, 2017 Report Share Posted February 10, 2017 (edited) I don't think that until anyone has used Ed's Red and a phosphor bronze brush that it becomes apparent how dirty the inside of the barrels are with plastic and powder residue. When cleaned with this and about six patches of double sheets of bog roll they are clean. The patches come out BLACK and I mean like paint. Edited February 10, 2017 by fortune Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brixsmaid Posted February 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2017 Napier ultra clean and cleanzoil or ed red is all I need. Cleans my guns in no time. Do you just use the Napier ultra clean material on a normal jag or have you got the extra long Napier ultra clean jag? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
figgy Posted February 10, 2017 Report Share Posted February 10, 2017 Will have to check as not sure I bought the Napier jag but could be wrong, I know mine is a white plastic jag that's the same length as the ultra clean is wide so it works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theshootist Posted February 10, 2017 Report Share Posted February 10, 2017 Well I've bought one of the half length drill kits. I use a paradox cleaning rod stuck in a drill to remove the build up from plastic wads after I've put a case through the gun. The problem is that on the cheaper rods the heat generated melts the glue holding the cleaning material on the rod. This one seems much better made and the 4" long brush on the drill bit is very firm, looks like it will shift anything. Reinventing the wheel? Possibly, but it does seem well put together and thought out. Like the fact that the rod has a plastic sleve. Only got it last week so I'll update once it's been used more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brixsmaid Posted February 11, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2017 Will have to check as not sure I bought the Napier jag but could be wrong, I know mine is a white plastic jag that's the same length as the ultra clean is wide so it works. Thanks, pretty sure the ultra clean jag is brass, looking at the adds, but if yours works why spend more! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
figgy Posted February 11, 2017 Report Share Posted February 11, 2017 Thanks, pretty sure the ultra clean jag is brass, looking at the adds, but if yours works why spend more! No the ultraclean jag is a long plastic jag in a gold colour looked at one today. I just use a normal plastic jag with the Ultraclean. The Napier jag is vey long compared so will give three times more scrubbing surface. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brixsmaid Posted February 11, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2017 No the ultraclean jag is a long plastic jag in a gold colour looked at one today. I just use a normal plastic jag with the Ultraclean. The Napier jag is vey long compared so will give three times more scrubbing surface. Thanks for that, never actually seen one in the flesh, so assumed it was brass. Think I may give the ultra clean gear a go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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