impala59 Posted March 27, 2017 Report Share Posted March 27, 2017 Does anyone have any tips on turning or milling nylon rod or bar? I'm guessing slow speeds and very gradual increments. What type of cutting tools are best? Any advice gratefully received Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SurreySquireler Posted March 27, 2017 Report Share Posted March 27, 2017 I have turned HDPE on a wood turning lathe with great success. I made the blank from melting down milk bottles, and then turned it round. It turned really nicely, very smooth cutting but i needed quite a high speed ans sharp chisels. It produced really long shavings when I got it round, and was very satisfying to turn. What are you planning to turn? I have heard of people using High Density Polyethylene, Ultra high molecular weight polyethylene and machining plastics like Delrin before and they make great bushings, but I have never heard of anyone machining nylon. It should be interesting anyway! Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
impala59 Posted March 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2017 (edited) I have ordered (from the US) some nylon recoil buffers and when they arrive I intend to try and duplicate to avoid expensive re-orders. From what I have read, nylon 6 has better impact properties than nylon 66 which has better slide characteristics. Engineering grade nylon rod (6 and 66) is readily available on-line in various sizes, I shall give it a go! Edited March 28, 2017 by impala59 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SurreySquireler Posted March 27, 2017 Report Share Posted March 27, 2017 Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Walker570 Posted March 28, 2017 Report Share Posted March 28, 2017 Speed is not such an issue in my experience but having a very sharp cutting tool makes a much better job. Also support the piece in any way you can because unlike steel, nylon/plastic materials will give, even in large diameter pieces. Don't be in a hurry but there again that relates to milling/turning anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
webber Posted March 28, 2017 Report Share Posted March 28, 2017 Fast speed and high rake angles. webber Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
impala59 Posted March 28, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2017 Thanks gentlemen:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R1nut Posted March 29, 2017 Report Share Posted March 29, 2017 Hss tools with high rake Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
impala59 Posted March 29, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2017 Sorry to be a pain, any pics or diagrams would be very helpful. I have a clarke wood turning lathe with a 4 jaw chuck and a collection of wood turning blades/chisels. would these be suitable for this material? I have adapted my Clarke post drill for simple milling with an X Y moving vice and locking depth gauge. I have been relatively successful with aluminium so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bazooka Joe Posted March 29, 2017 Report Share Posted March 29, 2017 Avoid high speeds, it cause fiction/heat & plastics melt/adhere to the cutting tool, therefore tolerances are awol. Check the link, plenty info. https://www.directplastics.co.uk/tips-to-machine-engineering-plastics.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
impala59 Posted March 30, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2017 Great link thank you, I guess it's suck it and see time, will report back in due course Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveboy Posted March 30, 2017 Report Share Posted March 30, 2017 I have turned HDPE on a wood turning lathe with great success. I made the blank from melting down milk bottles, and then turned it round. It turned really nicely, very smooth cutting but i needed quite a high speed ans sharp chisels. It produced really long shavings when I got it round, and was very satisfying to turn. Hi I'm very interested how you melted down the milk bottles?. Could you pour it into a mould ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeadWasp Posted March 30, 2017 Report Share Posted March 30, 2017 (edited) Just as a (related) aside I know that Yakult bottles have been dissolved with acetone I think and recast. It's used in the far east to make inexpensive artificial limbs by soaking cloth in the mix and winding it around wooden forms. A bit like a polymer papier mache. You can also make machinable wax by dissolving milled polythene into normal wax. The polythene is cut up in a cross cut paper shredder. Edited March 30, 2017 by LeadWasp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
impala59 Posted March 30, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2017 Never cease to be amazed by the PW knowledge bank! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SurreySquireler Posted March 30, 2017 Report Share Posted March 30, 2017 (edited) This video link runs through most of the technique: although if you have access to a vacuum of any sort then it is well worth doing as it makes your life a lot easier; as it removes all the air bubbles while melted though the plastic is very viscous and difficult to pour, so you can't really pour it into a mold other than a square Edited March 30, 2017 by SurreySquireler Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landy george Posted March 31, 2017 Report Share Posted March 31, 2017 Like ever body has said, high spindle speed & sharp tools, try not to let it get too hot. Bit doughy & moves about, try & do it with one cut as the second cut it will push away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
impala59 Posted May 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2017 OK , so attempt # 1 has produced 2 buffers which, as can be seen from the pic I have tried and they both fit. (the original is on the right) I found that short bursts of cutting worked for me with an interval of trimming the swarf with a sharp craft knife. Not the prettiest of jobs but functional and a lot cheaper than buying from the US. I am sure that with a little practice I can get the quality up too. Thanks to all those whose advice helped me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave-G Posted May 10, 2017 Report Share Posted May 10, 2017 Acetal bar is much nicer to machine, only costs a tad more and is not hygroscopic so it doesn't expand as it absorbs atmospheric moisture in the way nylon does. I only discovered this by accident as my first batch of night vision DSA's were nylon - the tubes grew in diameter which affected a friction fit component. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subsonicnat Posted May 10, 2017 Report Share Posted May 10, 2017 High speeds are NOT THE WAY TO GO.. It causes friction and the nylon will melt to the tool,Medium speed and small cuts,slowly.. But you will find that out for yourself when turning it.. Turned it for years at work and sometimes now at home.. Slow and steady, you will get it right..B O L. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mice! Posted May 10, 2017 Report Share Posted May 10, 2017 Something I do when turning nylon is put a groove in first using your parting off tool, this way you can turn into fresh air and avoid cutting material off by hand or if you can get in do the groove then back turn it so your cutting away from the chuck and finished piece. Just leave enough for the finish cut . Would try to get the Acetal though much nicer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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