Amazon Whetstone

[Farmboy91]

I brought one of these and it turned up today, I've watched a couple YouTube videos and done a bit of googling but I can't for the life of me make the knife take an edge.

Has anyone else had one from there? It's 8000/3000 Grit which going by their guide was roughly what I needed. I can't work out if the Whetstone just doesn't work, the knife won't take an edge because it was cheap or I'm just ham fisted 😂 (possibly a combo of the 3).

I know there are some master knifesman on here (ditchy) is it worth perserving with this one or is there one you lot can recommend? 

[Bazooka Joe]

You need to get the angle on the blade first, the grit 8000/3000 won't removed much material especially the 8000 which will just polish the edge.

To give you a better idea have a look at one of my threads;

https://forums.pigeonwatch.co.uk/forums/topic/368902-knife_sharpening_jig/

 

[Farmboy91]

2 minutes ago, Bazooka Joe said:

You need to get the angle on the blade first, the grit 8000/3000 won't removed much material especially the 8000 which will just polish the edge.

To give you a better idea have a look at one of my threads;

https://forums.pigeonwatch.co.uk/forums/topic/368902-knife_sharpening_jig/

 

Thanks alot I'll give it a read 👍 

Could mods possibly move this to guns and equipment as that's where I meant to post it 🤔 

[panoma1]

I know it's obvious.....but did you soak it for an hour or so prior to use?

[wymberley]

I have the same one and they are very good. Joe has the answer in as much as they work on a previously sharp edge which has become dull but retains its profile and needs some work to restore that edge. You may well need a more coarse grit stone to restore the profile before using the whetsone.

[Farmboy91]

1 hour ago, panoma1 said:

I know it's obvious.....but did you soak it for an hour or so prior to use?

No not for an hour, I was going by the packaging, it said when the bubbles stop coming out its ready to use. 

 

12 minutes ago, wymberley said:

I have the same one and they are very good. Joe has the answer in as much as they work on a previously sharp edge which has become dull but retains its profile and needs some work to restore that edge. You may well need a more coarse grit stone to restore the profile before using the whetsone.

Thanks, I did have a look on fleabay and found a cheap coarse one for a couple quid, I'll give that one a go and then try and move on to the finer one. 

I have run the same knife through the Sharpener I use on the kitchen knifes with brings them up ridiculously sharp but it won't touch this knife nor my mora. 

[fitzy]

You need a loupe or magnifying glass and a sharpie marker pen, without which it's very hard to determine the angle. You shouldn't rush to reprofile the angle until you can see what you're doing.

Edited January 2, 2019 by fitzy

[Farmboy91]

 

1 hour ago, fitzy said:

You need a loupe or magnifying glass and a sharpie marker pen, without which it's very hard to determine the angle. You shouldn't rush to reprofile the angle until you can see what you're doing.

Thanks, I've tried to take my time with it anyway just so it anything I don't make it worse. 

[Gunman]

That a razor stone . Great on your cut throat . Question to ask is do want a scalpel or a cutting edge ? There is a difference . 

[Farmboy91]

1 hour ago, Gunman said:

That a razor stone . Great on your cut throat . Question to ask is do want a scalpel or a cutting edge ? There is a difference . 

I just want it suitable for breasting etc, the mora was spot on for a while I'd be happy if I could get that edge back then just maintain it. 

[Stonepark]

1 hour ago, Farmboy91 said:

I just want it suitable for breasting etc, the mora was spot on for a while I'd be happy if I could get that edge back then just maintain it. 

If you haven't been abusing the edge by running it against solid objects, steeling the edge should bring back the sharpness of a mora, as the loss of the edge is often edge being rolled by hitting bone rather than wear removing material to leave a blunt edge.

[Mr gen]

It is definitely about getting the right degree of angle on the blade to the stone different blades have different profiles if your getting nowhere with a shallow angle just keep adding to it. as you get better at it you will start to feel the bite. 

[Farmboy91]

6 hours ago, Stonepark said:

If you haven't been abusing the edge by running it against solid objects, steeling the edge should bring back the sharpness of a mora, as the loss of the edge is often edge being rolled by hitting bone rather than wear removing material to leave a blunt edge.

What seemed to kill the mora was using it on the Sharpener i use for my kitchen knifes, hopefully the rougher stone I've brought will help bring it back. 

 

6 hours ago, Mr gen said:

It is definitely about getting the right degree of angle on the blade to the stone different blades have different profiles if your getting nowhere with a shallow angle just keep adding to it. as you get better at it you will start to feel the bite. 

Yeah I've not rushed trying to do it, I'll keep practicing on the knives I've got as they didn't cost the earth so I'm not at too much of a loss if I end up ruining them. 

[TIGHTCHOKE]

I would suggest you have changed the profile of the blade by using the kitchen knife sharpener.

You need to remove a small amount of metal to sharpen a blunted knife, but to re-profile a blade it will require more metal to be removed, then you need to stick to the profile to maintain the edge.

Edited January 3, 2019 by TIGHTCHOKE
Addition of tables.

[Stonepark]

2 hours ago, Farmboy91 said:

What seemed to kill the mora was using it on the Sharpener i use for my kitchen knifes, hopefully the rougher stone I've brought will help bring it back

Yes, that would do it, Mora blade angles for their scandi blades are in region of 11 degrees per blade side (22 to 23 degrees total), your bog standard kitchen knife sharpener is 40 to 45 degrees total.

[Stonepark]

For the wifes kitchen knives (cheap generic stainless) i keep the below handy as it is adjustible for chopping knifes paring, butcher, filleting and boning knives (and i always leave it on the chopping knife setting as that is what my wife normally uses it for) but even this only goes down to 14 degrees per side at best as illustrated.

 

 

[Farmboy91]

3 hours ago, TIGHTCHOKE said:

I would suggest you have changed the profile of the blade by using the kitchen knife sharpener.

You need to remove a small amount of metal to sharpen a blunted knife, but to re-profile a blade it will require more metal to be removed, then you need to stick to the profile to maintain the edge.

Thanks for posting that, going by some of the videos I'd watched I'd gathered around 20 degrees was roughly what I needed, think I'll get a few different stones to as going by that the first one I brought might be a bit much for what I was trying to do, thanks again. 

1 hour ago, Stonepark said:

For the wifes kitchen knives (cheap generic stainless) i keep the below handy as it is adjustible for chopping knifes paring, butcher, filleting and boning knives (and i always leave it on the chopping knife setting as that is what my wife normally uses it for) but even this only goes down to 14 degrees per side at best as illustrated.

 

 

That looks a handy bit of kit then, why did it come from? I'm thinking that it might be better to use that to start with then get a stone reflecting the graph TIGHTCHOKE posted to keep them tip top.