Sharpening stones

[chrisjpainter]

I need to bring a few knives back to sharpness. These aren't kitchen ones, more bushcraft/outdoor knives, but not sure where to begin with getting the right stone and how fine they need to be. I've already got the dents out of the blades, so we're now talking sharpening rather than repairing, but they are practically childproof blunt! So where's the best place to begin?

Also, any recommendations on what ones to actually buy would be great, especially if they tell you how fine they are I looked at a few and definitions of 'fine' for example seem to vary wildly when it comes to the grit number.

 

[ditchman]

start off with a decent carborundum stone...and lubricate it with parafeen or desiel....to get the meat off the edge ...then finish it off with a 360 and then a 600 diamond file/plate.....

[Ultrastu]

Forget stones they are very difficult  to use .buy a decent diamond " stone " 

I have a 2 sided trend one .300 and 600 grit .works brilliantly. 

[JTaylor91]

Stones are good if you can be consistent with your angle. If you can’t then have a look at the lansky sharpener.

Lansky Sharpeners Standard Sharpening System https://amzn.eu/d/7a4kGvC

[labstaff]

I've got a lansky  set, brilliant bits of kit

[Stonepark]

1 hour ago, chrisjpainter said:

I need to bring a few knives back to sharpness. These aren't kitchen ones, more bushcraft/outdoor knives, but not sure where to begin with getting the right stone and how fine they need to be.

120g to 240g for removing metal damage in blade (reprofiling)

240g to 400g for producing bevel

600g for primary sharpening of bevel (rough toothy edge), often all that is needed for bushcraft

1,000g for secondary sharpening (slicing edge), good for fine carving and food prep.

3,000g to 10,000g for finishing and 'honing' to razor sharpness and polishing bevel

 

Lansky or the less expensive Chinesium equivalent sets have the stones for the first 4 stages and guides so you can control the angle and would be a good starter.

 

Watching a few lansky type YouTube videos will get you on track quite quickly.

Most freehand sharpening isn't done by only sight as such but sound as well which plays an important part as the angle of the bevel to the stone will sound different if the place is correctly aligned or too steep or too shallow.

A lansky style set, simplifies this by ensuring each stroke is the same.

With a lansky type set, select the hole closest to the knife blades bevel or the bevel you wish to impart, start with 240g stone, bring first side to a burr and then switch sides and repeat, change to next finer grit 400g and repeat, then do 600g the same. Once final burr is done, alternate 10 strokes to a side with 600g or 1000g, then 8, 6, 4 2 and then lightly alternate stroke until happy burr has been removed.

 

At the end you should have a sharp blade.

[chrisjpainter]

27 minutes ago, Stonepark said:

120g to 240g for removing metal damage in blade (reprofiling)

240g to 400g for producing bevel

600g for primary sharpening of bevel (rough toothy edge), often all that is needed for bushcraft

1,000g for secondary sharpening (slicing edge), good for fine carving and food prep.

3,000g to 10,000g for finishing and 'honing' to razor sharpness and polishing bevel

 

Lansky or the less expensive Chinesium equivalent sets have the stones for the first 4 stages and guides so you can control the angle and would be a good starter.

 

Watching a few lansky type YouTube videos will get you on track quite quickly.

Most freehand sharpening isn't done by only sight as such but sound as well which plays an important part as the angle of the bevel to the stone will sound different if the place is correctly aligned or too steep or too shallow.

A lansky style set, simplifies this by ensuring each stroke is the same.

With a lansky type set, select the hole closest to the knife blades bevel or the bevel you wish to impart, start with 240g stone, bring first side to a burr and then switch sides and repeat, change to next finer grit 400g and repeat, then do 600g the same. Once final burr is done, alternate 10 strokes to a side with 600g or 1000g, then 8, 6, 4 2 and then lightly alternate stroke until happy burr has been removed.

 

At the end you should have a sharp blade.

Are the copycat versions effective? In myt experience the chinese copies are hit and miss ,but if these are a hit, then they look good. Thanks for taking the time to leave such a full reply. 

[wisdom]

29 minutes ago, chrisjpainter said:

Are the copycat versions effective? In myt experience the chinese copies are hit and miss ,but if these are a hit, then they look good. Thanks for taking the time to leave such a full reply. 

I have the copy set.Not had any problems with it.

I can certainly create a very sharp edge

I finish with a leather strop.Well it's an old leather belt I put in the vice.But it works.

[la bala]

Yep Lansky and strop, a finish you can shave with.

[Stonepark]

1 hour ago, chrisjpainter said:

Are the copycat versions effective? In myt experience the chinese copies are hit and miss ,but if these are a hit, then they look good. Thanks for taking the time to leave such a full reply. 

I have Lansky and copy set and in effectiveness the copy is probably 95% of the Lansky as there is not much in it for a beginner or amateur sharpener.

Had to reglue one of the Chinese stones as it came loose when new but both sharpen well and saying that I have reglued a Lansky stone in the past as well 9but has used it a fair bit).

 

No worries on the reply... and all from typing on screen on android phone....

[chrisjpainter]

3 hours ago, wisdom said:

I have the copy set.Not had any problems with it.

I can certainly create a very sharp edge

I finish with a leather strop.Well it's an old leather belt I put in the vice.But it works.

This is how Ray Mears does it and if it's good enough for Mears...

One copycat Lansky ordered. Many thanks, chaps