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Fabarm, did I get a bargain or a binner?


Red696
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Picked up a 1979 Fabarm O/U today at the bargain bucket price of £35.  It is not without it’s issues, but I bought it to learn..  known issues:

Bluing has been damaged, but no pitting or rust and otherwise very clean.

Top ejector locked solid.

Stock has small cracks at the top where it meets the rear of the action, when I say ‘meets’ I mean the stock arms appear to big ( pics show the issue )

 

The stock I’m sure I can make a good job of it and hopefully it will be difficult to spot.  The ejector will be a new challenge for me, but Youtube may be a useful aid, if that works out and shoots well I may have the barrels blued.

If only I could figure out what model she is, anyone offer any clues?


IMG_3667.jpeg.cf7c0f3da355a15465bc1fd30daabcab.jpegIMG_3665.jpeg.ec7bc15fcb8ee42696769d5a929ce471.jpegIMG_3666.jpeg.1fa30b790ecd1528e6b9c216841d88f7.jpegIMG_3669.jpeg.35d74fb7721853ba6ae96a11c46577ed.jpeg

 

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1 minute ago, enfieldspares said:

I think it is, sadly, worth the cost as a learning tool but I fear that its issues are too great. Cracked stocks at the head of the stock are never good news.


what would you say is the cause of the damage?

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It can be as simple as the thing wasn't headed up properly when it was made. But that should have shown early on long before you've acquired it. So that the metal doesn't spread its load, as it were, all over the wood but just a one point. Or it could be someone has taken the stock off (trying to sort out issues with the internals) and the damage was caused then or when it's been put back?

Edited by enfieldspares
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16 minutes ago, oldypigeonpopper said:

hello, £35 🤔 that seems a bargain, the ejector maybe just gummed up, stock should be easy to sort out, barrels blacked contact Paul Chell on the agf forum

Yeah I’ve seen PC’s excellent work, was thinking of Shaun @ ISP for the barrels as he has done some of my old Falcons.

5 minutes ago, enfieldspares said:

It can be as simple as the thing wasn't headed up properly when it was made. But that should have shown early on long before you've acquired it. So that the metal doesn't spread its load, as it were, all over the wood but just a one point. Or it could be someone has taken the stock off (trying to sort out issues with the internals) and the damage was caused then or when it's been put back?

Thanks for the info.

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I’ve found the cause if the ejector failure at least.


this little ****** is sticking, have it soaking in some pentrating fluid overnight so hopefully it will have freed up by the morning.

IMG_3672.jpeg.65182af30317693b26d1709efd948a72.jpeg
 

Double checked everything right back to these and no other issues.

IMG_3670.jpeg.d263a57f35648b3bc2693af8404cf0d6.jpegIMG_3671.jpeg.aa37e936f54cb3d41bc3e36764d6347e.jpeg

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You can get this issue when a side by side isn't stocked with the correct clearance between the rear end of the tang (the tail behind the safety) and the stock. The remedy I was advised was either to take wood off the stock that the tail impinges on to allow relief or to take metal of the "tail". As you gun has the same each side and I assume like the one you've seen on the internet it may be that the crack won't spread as it already has gone as far as it will ever go?

Edited by enfieldspares
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1 hour ago, Red696 said:

Now I am confused…. Ejector now functions well IF the buttstock is off but as soon as it is fitted the top ejector locks up.  
 

You've sorted what IMHO would have been the most expensive issue to fix. Whilst having that brew try and find a wax candle. Then use the flame to put smoky soot onto the ejector part that ypu think may be fouling on the buttstock. Reassemble the buttstock to the gun and try the ejectors. Then disassemble. Where the soot has been removed will show you what is fouling. It is then a decision as to do you remove metal from the piece that is fouling or wood from the buttstock that it is fouling against. I am not knowledgeable enough to say which you choose on an over and under.

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1 step forward and 3 back, servicing a PCP is so much easier 🤯

The actuating rod is not fouling inside the buttstock so went right back to the start, and

IMG_3678.jpeg.7b65642d23a867c9ebb574af37551bb0.jpeg
this little ****** was corroded and sticking despite an overnight soak, so althought the ejector was sliding fine in it grooves once the whole package was together it was still locked solid.  
 

After a little effort I’ve been able to clean it up, oil and refit it, the ejector slides nicely with plenty of force from the spring so all good at that point.  The pins in the forend move freely, the actuators in the action move freely by hand so that all seems good.

Although thenaction is very tight refitting and on breaking the action I’m not seeing any signs of it galling but still only the bottom ejectors fires.  
 

I’ve cocked the gun and then removed the butt, and can see that the actuator rod for the top ejector has not moved fully forward, if I manually push it then the top ejector fires.  That then brought about the next problem, the whole action is now locked open 🤬

 

so the question is what creates the movement on the actuator set up?IMG_3681.jpeg.1ad1508f1dfd04563b0cca1204ef5a3c.jpeg

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Have tried firing the gun yet to check the electors are working or are you using snap caps. If the latter are you sure the second barrel is firing it may need a bump on the stock to activate the second barrel. Just a thought  as you may have gone through the above already.

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11 hours ago, RCB56 said:

Have tried firing the gun yet to check the electors are working or are you using snap caps. If the latter are you sure the second barrel is firing it may need a bump on the stock to activate the second barrel. Just a thought  as you may have gone through the above already.


Thanks for the reply.  Only using snap caps but giving the stock a whack to fire off the second barrel, I’ve also tried the barrel selector and fired off the top barrel first.

Had another 1/2 hour on it this evening, everything is good with the actual ejector in fact if released it will fly right across the room now…  no longer anything sticking at that end.

So, cocked the action with the stock off to watch the actuators work and it helped me better understand how it operates.  The rod for the top ejector has clearly been worked on as it is polished along most of its length and on the end, whereas the ‘working’ one has not been touched.  Someone gave up by the looks of it and got rid.  I’ll have to source some replacement parts if I can get them at a cost that makes sense.

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2 hours ago, vmaxphil said:

Have a look at the ejector rods the faulty one might be a tad shorter due to someone fiddling with it 👍

Yes, checked on the digital gauges and slightly shorter with a different profile on the end also.

 

maybe someone else has used this gun as a learning tool 😂

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After spending a couple of days away from this one awaiting new rods & actuators I think I may have made progress.  I sat flipping the action for an hour just comparing the working ejector with the non working and noticed the working side had much more resistance berween the actuator & hammer.  Adjusted the other actuator in the vice with a bit of thumb pressure until it was close to matching, and ****** me it tripped the ejector first try 😳

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10 cycles and every one was a winner 😁  Replacement parts haven’t arrived, when they do I will give them a go.  Sadly can’t shoot this weekend so it’s another fortnights wait to take my first shot with it.

I need to find a rough shoot or it will just be clays every fortnight.

 

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9 minutes ago, London Best said:

Well done for your persistence!

I have to say, those internals look like they were made by a blacksmith.

Yes they are a little poor, my Laurona knocks it for six in terms of quality.

 

But good enough for a novice to learn on without wasting a load of cash, that’s gunsmithimg and shooting 😁

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