henry d Posted January 25, 2008 Report Share Posted January 25, 2008 Have you ever undersealed a car/4x4, was it sucessful and worth the effort ? I hope to get a new car soon and wondered, as the roads here are salted from Oct to April, whether it was worth the effort to underseal it or just to get a power washer ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al4x Posted January 25, 2008 Report Share Posted January 25, 2008 on a new car I'd not bother unless you are keeping it for years and years, the underseal on most new cars will be fine for 10 years. Its only really worth while if its an import or a landrover Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
henry d Posted January 25, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2008 Cheers, I`m looking at 2-4 year old cars with lowish mileage and my present/last car was a Vitara(P-reg 137K) and is dissolving so fast that it is not worth repairing. I didn`t want the same happening if I do get the 4x4(jimny seems to be the best deal) as it will get a fair amount of off roading as well as daily commuting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gully Posted January 25, 2008 Report Share Posted January 25, 2008 I'm getting mine steam cleaned and waxoyled next week. £250 its a no-brainer. Most cars now come with the bare minimum underside protection, especially Land Rovers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
henry d Posted January 25, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2008 Gully, thanks for the reply, how long should the waxoyl last and is it a repeatable treatment ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
njc110381 Posted January 25, 2008 Report Share Posted January 25, 2008 Have a look at this site http://www.before-n-after.co.uk/ He's supposed to be very good and will at least give you an idea of what's available Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gully Posted January 25, 2008 Report Share Posted January 25, 2008 To be honest, its the first time I've done it. there was some waxoyl on the car when I bought it and I thought it was time to do it properly. In a perfect world, I would strip my chassis back to bare metal, treat with phosphoric acid and then paint with POR15 which I think works well then paint ensis fluid all over that. However, this would mean spending a week underneath it and the existing waxoyl would be a killer to get off. I looked at before-n-after and rustmaster and decided to use rustmaster for £500 but then got chatting to a local guy who will do the same job for half the price. I'm hoping it will last a couple of years, and then all you need to do it jetwash the mud off and spray on a top up of a light waxoyl solution heavily diluted with parrafin or something. If you put more wax on top of old you get a hard thick coating that cracks and peels off, the aim is just to soften and top up the existing wax and get any cracks or scars to 'heal' Its being done on Tuesday, I'll try to take some pics but its a busy weekend ahead - last of the season and all that. Have a look at the old car / land rover forums and you'll hear mixed reports but anything is better than nothing in my book. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvoCars Posted January 25, 2008 Report Share Posted January 25, 2008 (edited) hammerite "schultz with added waxoyl" for the entire underneath, chassis arches ect ect will stop new rust and kill old rust, the standard waxoyl is only realy a cavity wax and wont stand up tp much on the underisde and will wear off realy easily, but is perfect for rust proofing the insides of door bottoms, sills wheel archs, its thin and will creep round into all the gaps, when you get your chassis done, amke sure its really cleana nd dry and that the entire chassi gets coated, not just the bits you can see, its messy and awkward, but theres no point waxing its not done properly http://www.hammerite-automotive.com/ rust proofing section, explains the use of both the waxoyl and the schultz with waxoyl under body sealer Edited January 25, 2008 by EvoCars Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hunter Posted January 25, 2008 Report Share Posted January 25, 2008 I have the Hammerite stuff. About to spray my Suzuki SJ once I have finished the welding. I used heavy duty pressure cleaner underneath, and blew all the crud off. It took two such washes, and a wire brush clean to get it ready. Like with painting, prep is everything for good results. Luckily I have recently over time bought all the kit to do the job myself, which will save a good bit of money. I bought 12 cans (12 liters) so I just need to get thst plate mig welding sorted Got plenty to spray inside the chassis, and pannels too which will help. The plastic layer will be useful under the wheel arches where most of the work is being done. It will help conceal all the work I have done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Country_est Posted January 25, 2008 Report Share Posted January 25, 2008 I did my frontera a couple of years back with the waxoyl spray and a tin of underseal paint. Have done aprox 20k miles on road as well as a few off road bits as well. The underside is still a lot better now than it was before I did it. Will probably have another doing of it this summer / Spring time. Well worth the dirty saturday spent claening the underneath and then spraying and painting the stuff about. Trev Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auto culto Posted January 25, 2008 Report Share Posted January 25, 2008 (edited) Henry wait till the summer as you will do more harm than good at present. What you dont want is to be trapping moisture between layers. I have done a fair few wax oiling jobs for customers but point blank refuse untill i can be sure that the vehicle is bone dry. I normally pressure wash then send it away for a few days to dry thoroughly then have it back in on the ramp for the wax oil application. A good quality wax oil will last a good few years but it also depends on how much stubble you drive over in the summer as the wax oil goes thin with heat and the stubble acts like a wire brush and removes it. I would recommend a wax oil / underseal mix for you as this is more hard wearing. If you can, pay someone to do it as its a nasty job. I allways use disposable overalls and have an full face air fed mask as the pure wax oil is carcinogenic so i,m told. Edited January 25, 2008 by auto culto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul1966 Posted January 25, 2008 Report Share Posted January 25, 2008 Have a look at this site http://www.before-n-after.co.uk/ He's supposed to be very good and will at least give you an idea of what's available had my landrover disco done by him. he does a very thorough job but be prepared for a possible late night. mine was booked in for an afternoon slot but he was running late and did not finish until 10.30 pm. i then had a 2 hour drive home. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShaggyRS6 Posted January 25, 2008 Report Share Posted January 25, 2008 Henry, I was looking for the same info. You need a cup of coffee when you read this thread, but it will hopefully point you in the right direction and also allow you to learn from others mistake. Click here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ROBLATCH Posted January 25, 2008 Report Share Posted January 25, 2008 Cheers, I`m looking at 2-4 year old cars with lowish mileage and my present/last car was a Vitara(P-reg 137K) and is dissolving so fast that it is not worth repairing. I didn`t want the same happening if I do get the 4x4(jimny seems to be the best deal) as it will get a fair amount of off roading as well as daily commuting. H.D i am a great beleiver of undersealng any vehicle. it not only preserves the metal work but also reduces the noise inside the vehicle.i use shultz spray form with compressor. i would recomend undersealing ! great stuff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lurcherboy Posted January 25, 2008 Report Share Posted January 25, 2008 Don't even bother unless it is 100% clean, free of any dust and grease and then you need to make sure you can access all chassis members etc from the inside. Use waxoil if you decide to go ahead with it H LB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
petersclan Posted January 25, 2008 Report Share Posted January 25, 2008 lots of people read the hammerite can with its rust prevention categories...... big mistake for a chassis as will hold water betwen the paint and chasis and cause more damage. good wire brush and clean then wax oil.... must try and spray as much way oil inside the chassis as on the outside if poss but is a real messy job worth it though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobt Posted January 26, 2008 Report Share Posted January 26, 2008 Have a look at this site http://www.before-n-after.co.uk/ He's supposed to be very good and will at least give you an idea of what's available had my landrover disco done by him. he does a very thorough job but be prepared for a possible late night. mine was booked in for an afternoon slot but he was running late and did not finish until 10.30 pm. i then had a 2 hour drive home. Chris Parkinson is one of the most diagreeable people I have ever met, he could start an argument with himself, and his guarrantee isnt worth much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord Geordie Posted January 28, 2008 Report Share Posted January 28, 2008 I was warned NOT to use underseal on any car as it retains moisture between the Underseal and the chassis and can cause rust. Waxoil is by FAR a better choice when protecting the underside of the car. Next year up on a lift jet wash and re-apply. :unsure: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
henry d Posted January 28, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2008 Cheers guys, looks like I`ll be getting down and dirty in the summer :unsure: Many thanks for the replies ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvoCars Posted January 28, 2008 Report Share Posted January 28, 2008 cheap underseal is ****, ground up old tyres mixed with bitchumen, hence it has zero rust protecting properites, the hammerite underseal is just a tougher version of waxoyl (hammerite make waxoyl) , and does protect and kill rust. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gully Posted January 28, 2008 Report Share Posted January 28, 2008 Underseal is stonechip and is rubbery - it should only be used on clean, dry, new, cold or hot galvanised metal. I've got a classic car which, while I'm not into councours stuff (or washing it even!), I wanted to keep original so stonechip was applied then overpainted the same colour as the car. It does what it says, stops chips starting rust. If it lifts a bit you get water behind it which is bad news. They started using it in the 70's which is why a lot of 60's cars have lasted better than 70's ones. I've spoken to the place that's doing my waxoyl tomorrow - they steam clean it then leave it for a couple of days to dry before waxoyling it so that the bulk of the moisture is gone. Waxoyl will disperse water but only so much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvoCars Posted January 28, 2008 Report Share Posted January 28, 2008 underseal and stone chip are differnt things mate, stone chip is a rubbery paint, that drys and can be over painted as you say, cheap underseal is bitchumen based and usualy used for bodging up rusty old bangers for mots, and cant be painted over Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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