sitsinhedges

That's what I've been doing for the last few weeks, tucked in near a few sitty trees. No massive bags but a box or two of cartridges each time without any set up. This is what has made me loathe the drudgery of masses of decoying equipment.

Giving up humping a ruddy great sack around the countryside and taking half an hour to set up only to find the pigeons are elsewhere or just ignoring me What's the minimum amount of kit I could decoy with

Where's the photo's then, this being the sporting pictures section an' all EDIT: They're there to see now, well done

That'll sink in the mud

God I hate cold blueing kits, they are all absolute **** and don't last, usually turning to rust in no time. What actually happens is that the solution contains copper solution that attaches to your guns metal and this is what is actually blued. look in the Yellow Pages for a local metal finisher that does industrial blacking just like those nuts and bolts you buy and he will do your trigger guard properly for a few pounds. I understand Sandwell Field Sports also provide this service very cheaply too. Don't waste yuour cash on the cold blue ****

Yes, always yes

Shot a few yesterday with crops full of rape leaf, for the first time this year. Maybe the berries are running out now

Anyone tried that with pigeon (or any other type of bird)

No he didn't He got paid a small fee last year by mistake and returned it :blink:

Add something to the breech end of the tube to raise your head so you are looking down below where you normally would point the gun. I added a small block maybe 12mm wide and 6mm tall by about 35mm long that resembles a rib when aiming and I can now shoot bang on target rather than try and guess. You could use an upturned U section that wont rock on the tube, but I am lucky to have the kit to form a radius on the underside of a sold piece of ally and then I just stuck it on

http://www.peterlawman.co.uk/

Don't do it It will never be any good, but I believe several firms such as Sandwell Field Sports can get it done properly for a nominal sum

I just got some powder from him, he does seem hard to get hold of sometimes, I think he has a proper job too but he is kosher. You should have nipped over when you picked up the shotmaker

A 20g is more versatile (than a .410) by a country mile and far lighter than a 12 to carry about. The cartridges are much cheaper than a .410 but not as cheap as a 12, but it will compete with a 12 in most disciplines. 20g subsonics is my preferred choice for general rough shooting, very pleasant to use and very effective. I would be undergunned in a lot of situations if I only had a .410 and wouldn't be able to afford to pull the trigger too often at £7+ a box either.

AFAIK, a barrel only needs reproofing if you structurally weaken it, and only then if you sell it. Obvously you can have it done any way for your own piece of mind if you want. If you cut a barrel down, as long as it remains over the minimum of 24" you haven't actually weakened the structure, just made it shorter and so I can't see any reason to reproof it. Of course if you thread a barrel or port it etc then that potentially does weaken it and would need a reproof before selling at the very least.

I would like some thoughts on how to open up chokes on a fixed choke shotgun. I have heard of two possible methods so far which are either use an expanding reamer to get to the required size or shorten the length of the barrel by a small amount to take it back to where the choke is the required size. Any thoughts or other ideas :blink:

I have posted an Ad in the 'other' for sales section for a couple of surplus shotmaking pots. Might be useful for anyone contemplating having a go. A proven design that I'm sure Kdubya will vouch for, he has the ones that went with my shotmaking set up and they are exactly the same. Cheers Sitsinhedges

I have a couple of spare shotmaking pots for anyone who is thinking of making a shotmaker. They are unused and made of stainless steel and are drilled for up to 6 nozzles. They are from a proven design and each one would be capable of aroung 25kilos of shot per hour when running correctly. They are made out of stainless because it is stronger than the usual aluminium ones and they don't suffer the same temp fluctuations. unlike mild steel they will not corrode and block the drippers with rust either. They are a matched pair but I will sell individually for £60 each, a lot of work went into these. PM me if interested

Best bet is a pump, which I am working on as we speak I do know that Hatsan 20g autos cycle 23g subsonics and so, IMO, it would make sense to moderate a 20g auto and put relatively heavy loads thru it rather than light loads thru a 12g because it would be more likely to cycle properly. I think

Thanks, but from experience they are very reluctant to talk to anyone that they don't consider to be 'trade'. Very frustrating trying to hold a conversation with them thru a third party

Having had another look it seems that the thread on the pump tube isn't as good as it should be and doesn't grip the nut well enough Anyone know how to remove it from the breech, it seems to be screwed in but we aren't sure if there is a locking pin or suchlike. Secondly has anyone got a price list for spare parts for these

What it does do is create far less disturbance and make shooting far more pleasant, there isn't an earsplitting boom with every shot and anyone hearing it would think it farther away than it actually is

Well don't keep it to yourself

http://www.siarm.com/index.php?cPath=1_115 HTH

I know the endcap was steel and I assume the bit it screws onto is ally so it would be favourite that the ally part would be the part that is worn I would think. I believe the guns is 4 or 5 yrs old, were they having problems with guns produced around that time