Cannon

ECP were also caught with bottles of counterfeit engine oil, but they have cleaned up their act since. Just keep your invoices from purchasing and fitting. Then if there are any issues, you have a paper trail to fall back on.

If you're asking for advice on what brand and where to buy etc, then a Luk 3 piece from Euro Car Parts would be as good as any. Just use one of their recurring discount codes when ordering and you'll get it at around trade price. The only thing to look out for is whether the flywheel is dual mass, and if it is still within tolerance. Would be costly if you fitted a new clutch only for the flywheel to give up a short time later.

In fairness you can't disagree with what I have said. The code didn't tell you that the wire in the MAF needed cleaning, did it? If I were to cut the MAF signal cable where it enters the ECU, you would still get a load of fault codes relating to the MAF. No amount of carb cleaner is going to fix that problem. What you have done is guessed the fault, and been lucky that the solution was the one that you first opted for. I diagnose faults with cars on almost a daily basis, so I know that code readers can give you a bum steer. Take crankshaft and camshaft sensors for instance. You could get a fault code relating to a crankshaft sensor, but the fault could actually be the camshaft sensor. The ECU expects signals from both when the engine is running, but either could manage to send signals with the engine off if they were faulty. The ECU then throws a fault code for the sensor that isn't sending a signal, because it expects a signal from both sensor, even though the working sensor isn't supposed to be sending a signal with the vehicle off. That is just one example of how a code reader could cost you a fortune in parts, by leading you to replace sensors that aren't actually faulty. You really need to go to oscilloscope level to do any in depth diagnosis, whereyou are able to physically see the signals. As for the OP, it is unusual that your boost pressure (or MAP) sensor should fail. The MAP sensor communicates the boost pressure to the ECU, where it is interpreted and compared to upper and lower limits. If the boost deviates beyond either of these limits, the vehicle will go into limp mode. What your garage would have had to do I establish exactly why the MAP sensor was sending a faulty signal. Most times it's because of an air leak, vacuum leak, sticking variable geometry turbo vanes/actuator or a faulty boost control solenoid. I am presuming of course that the garage has done the proper investigation into the route cause.

You could buy a code reader, but would you know what to do with it? Unfortunately 99.9% of the time it isn't as simple as resetting the fault code, as someone alluded to above. A code reader doesn't tell you what the problem is. It simply gives you a clue as to what to look out for. Then you have to use your head and other test equipment to diagnose potential causes of the problem. If it does turn out to be the DPF, don't take advantage of any garages offer to remove it. New laws coming into effect soon will mean your vehicle will fail its subsequent MOT. As for rotating the DPF, in certain circumstances it might be possible, but it would be highly inadvisable. The DPF is designed in such a way to compliment exhaust gas flow. If you rotate it, the engine would have to work harder to overcome the cause of the restricted flow. This could damage your engine, and will undoubtedly lead to illumination of your EML, and a very noticeable reduction in power. Best bet is to let the garage work their magic, as we would all just be guessing the cause of the fault on here.

Finally lol

D8 to G8 If Bishop takes Queen, then move D7 to B6 for checkmate If Bishop takes Knight, King takes Bishop and checkmate

I'll get it yet lol

D8 to F6 Bishop must move Depending where the Bishop moves to, the Queen could move from either F6 to C6, or F6 to A6

Hmmmm...

A5 to A6 E6 takes D7 C8 takes D7 Checkmate

White cannot win if it puts the black king in a position where it cannot move other than into check, if it isn't currently in check. Black would have to be in check first. There also isn't a white queen on the board (yellow bear).

That would be stalemate Harry

3.41 pence per mile, before you factor in the cost of fuel. Not the best value for money. The government has very little concern about the environment. As long as the money keeps flowing and they are perceived to be doing something about global warming and diesel emissions etc, and they meet the criteria on their hypocrital lists, then they will continue to rip off the general public. The idea of paying extra at the pump is one I strongly disagree with. There is absolutely no reason why our fuel has to be so expensive, other than governmental greed.

There isn't much to a starter motor. Most light vehicle are pre-engaged types, so the pinion gear should be thrown out and spin when the solenoid gets energised. First check to see if you're getting full battery voltage to the main starter terminal. It should always have battery voltage present even with the ignition off. Then you need to check that the solenoid is getting power. This must be checked during cranking. If you are getting roughly 12 volts here then you need to check the earth connections. Are they clean and secure with no damage present? Starters can be overhauled quite easily, and it is often the case that the commutator is contaminated or the brushes are worn. Overhauling them is certainly not beyond the remit of a competent DIY'er, though a half decent multimeter is essential for resistance tests on the internal components. There are plenty of guides online and on youtube. The above is assuming that the associated fuses and relays are functioning as they should be.

Just to touch on a point made earlier on. You can wire a car wiper motor up so that it spins clockwise or anticlockwise. It just depends on how you connect the positive and negative up on the appropriate wires on the motor, or the battery. The vast majority of spindle nuts are righty tighty, so if your spindle is pointing to the sky, an anticlockwise rotation would undo the nut in a matter of moments. You can use castellated nuts with split pins to prevent this if you wish. Depending on the wiper motor, you may be able to wire it up at one of three different speed settings (or more). Find the common earth, then connect the battery positive cable to whatever cable produces the speed you want. Ideally you should fuse the motor, with the fuse located close to the motor. If the motor starts to overheat, it will blow the fuse and save the motor from burning itself out. Variable speed controllers are simple enough to install. Make sure to use the correct components, and ensure they are high quality if you want the controller to last. They really are simple devices to make. Motorcycle batteries are cheap and easy to transport, so you could have a few on them at hand and easily change them as needed. Golf cart batteries are better again.

It's a giant Oreo

DPF's are a really good idea. On paper they are fantastic, but in reality they are a total nightmare. I am told that accoustics may play a part in DPF testing next year. If it's empty, you'll be able to tell by the sound of it when tapping with a test hammer/tool. I also suspect that vehicle manufacturers will have to provide technical information on regen procedures etc to MOT centres. Some of this information is already available on AutoData.

Either a replacement sump, or you can buy a sump repair kit that includes the necessary drill bits, thread tools, inserts and plugs. It's not unusual for a new hole to be drilled and tapped in the sump near the original. You would need to make sure the metal was thick enough to accept at 3 threads of the new bolt at the very minimum. I would personally try to rethread/chase the threads of the existing hole. If this couldn't be done, I would drill and tap the hole for the next available size.

I don't know about you, but my interpretation of the word 'obsessed' is considerably different from yours. It appears that flashman has demonstrated an element of obsession. I have merely offered an opinion, and have demonstrated no obsession with your national anthem whatsoever.

I thought you'd finished yapping, but obviously not. Pot calling the kettle black comes to mind. We live in a democratic society, yet you seem to think that the opinion of others doesn't matter. Talk about hypocrisy.

Didn't anybody ever tell you not to start a sentence with 'And'? Your hypocrisy knows no bounds. You can't be taken seriously anymore after that one.

Aside from the fact that your grammar leaves a lot to be desired, waiting for me to make a spelling mistake so you could jump in and deliver your weak punches is quite petty. Come back to this thread when you've wised up a bit.

Everyone is entitled to their opinion. Democracy sees to that. I'm not going any further with an Irish politics debate. It'll get us nowhere.

The good friday agreement allows me to be british or Irish. My nationality is Irish, therefore your arguement is pointless. On that note, are you a british subject, or a british citizen? If you see yourself as a british subject, then you are also part of the problem, and ignorant to the fact as well. By definition, a subject is a person who has been brought under control by another person or organisation, typically by forceful means. I don't know about you, but I would never allow anybody to deem me less of a person than they are through the use of belittling methods. One such method is the use of the english language by the upper class, royals and arostocrats to elevate themselves above all others.