-Mongrel-

Nowadays I'd tend to agree with you, although I sea and fly fish and occasionally combine the two! ...but I came from a coarse fishing background, went through phases of match fishing, carp fishing, specimen hunting and back to general scratching before eventually selling off all my carp and most of my coarse gear. I suspect you will probably have started off roach bashing or similar purely because it's the cheapest, easiest, most accessible form of angling and where most fishermen start. I'd encourage anyone to do it initially rather than struggle with something a bit more technical and getting put off for life.

Do yo know how big the carp run to? IF they are up to 6-7lb then your 6lb mainline will suffice, just remember to set you reels clutch ( and set it to your hook length not mainline strength. Really you need to decide whether you want to target the carp or wait and see what picks the bait up, especially if the carp are substantial. You will catch more the lighter your set up but that also means you have to perhaps ignore the carp, alternatively target the carp and scale up accordingly. Just bear in mind that carp fishing can involve quite a few blank sessions. If I were you I'd go for whatever swims past with a light set up and maggots for hook bait, you may still hook the odd carp which will be a heart rate raising experience as well.

Fantastic offer which I'm pretty sure that most people struggling for permissions would jump at. I certainly would if it was local to me! Good on yo Waterside to offer it, ignore the knockers mate, nobody's forcing people to PM you.

Unless you are pike fishing, hell yes! If you're after 'big' fish, like good bream or carp etc then 6 lb should be enough, if you are roach fishing , then I'd say 2 lb or less. You're very unlikely to catch a 2lb Roach!

I stick with my 'put it in the right place and it makes no difference' comment, if it's dead with a .177 then a .22 won't make it any more dead. As for the heavier pellets, personally, I shoot whatever's most accurate through the gun. My Ultra likes Bisley Magnums, my Air Arms S400 liked Air Arms fields which are a significantly lighter pellet...they still kill rabbits though.

Citroen Xsara estate for family use, one of those utterly uninspiring cars that does everything it should really well. Good economy, dogs and kids all fit, easy to drive etc, etc....I use it very rarely. I'd rather be in my 2.8td SWB Pajero.

In my experience it matters very little what size pellet you fire into a rabbits head within the perceived 'normal' ranges. If it's on target it will kill the rabbit. It doesn't matter if the pellet stops in the head or passes straight through, I've yet to see a rabbit brain shot be it through and through or not, that has been able to run away! The important thing is that you are accurate at the range that you are shooting out to, with whatever calibre and gun you use. By accurate I mean 1" groups. Personally I find it much easier with a .177 to be accurate from 8 yards out to 50 yards. Less faffing about with drop, but you still need to learn how much you need to aim off by over that spectrum. Master that and compensating for the wind and you'l be deadly. As a point of interest I have killed cleanly at a measured 62 yards with a .177 so there is plenty of energy available at even that range (even if my range estimation wasn't up to scratch that day!). In my opinion you probably shouldn't be shooting live until you are very consistent on your groupings on paper because it's rarely as easy a shot in the field as it is at the range.

Excitable? Blinking bonkers more like!

This is the issue mate, and I'm fairly sure the CDTi is common rail. Will run fine on bio-diesel though.

That'll learn ya for listening to R4 woneit!

Second hand BSA Lightning, or if you get lucky an Ultra. Good, accurate, reliable guns that you'll sell on for nigh on what you paid.

I owned an Air Arms S400, great gun but it was sold on to help fund an multishot for hunting It was a good gun but I felt it was compromised in the field. I haven't used the Ultra in anger in the field but suspect it will be very adequate, in which case a dedicated HFT gun is called for. I can't afford a Steyr et al so a Weirauch sounds like a good choice and is renowned for exceptional accuracy.

Most modern diesels will run on biodiesel but not veg oil, most older diesels will run on either. There are issues with veg oil, not least being ring gumming, caused by burning oil in a cold engine. The resolution to this is a twin tank system and heat exchanger to maintain viscosity when it gets cold! There's loads of info out there, try http://www.vegetableoildiesel.co.uk, stacks of info. I've run my Pajero on WVO for a while now but you MUST ensure it's filtered well and de-watered. I'm about to start producing Bio diesel, for £400 you can get set up and be producing bio diesel for as little as 40p a litre. Won't take long to get your money back if you do significant mileage. I have to laugh at those that keep saying "With the price of veg oil in the shops, it's just not worth it"! I can get oil at £1.00 a litre, that's 40p or more a litre less than diesel, and yet these are probably the same people who travel 5 miles to fill up for 2p a litre less than locally!

Does for me.

Agreed, maybe ring HfH and if they don't know of him a follow up call to the local plod.

2 bar hot is not set in stone, 1.8 is fine, 2.2 is also fine, you don't want it going over 2.5 really, once again that would suggest a problem.

Funnily enough I've just picked up a Bowkett tuned Ultra, seems a nice piece of kit and with a synthetic stock it's SO light! Perfect hunting gun. I'm now looking at a HFT gun and as such I may well get a HW100, no need to lug it very far and they are so accurate and reliable. The R10 is a great gun but does seem to need a bit of Bowkett attention to get the best out of it.

Check the pressure when the rads are cold, it's the only way you can get like for like readings, any heat will cause a pressure increase to some degree. Cold pressure should be between 1 and 1.5 bar and it should always come back to the same cold pressure. If it's regularly dropping then you have a leak somewhere. Don't worry too much if it loses a little bit of pressure over the first week or two, it's normal. The boiler has an automatic bleed valve and will clear any residual air in the system, however bleeding air out is bleeding pressure out too. If it's only a slight drop I'd wait and see how it settles down.

DeLonghi is fine and about right price wise. With regard to the inhibitor, count how many rads you have and ascertain if any are exceptionally large (if the 1200 is the largest then no they aren't), if it's 10 or less then 1 full litre, if it's more than 10 or you feel you may have larger than average rads, put 2 full litres in. You don't have to worry about overdosing it but under dosing is a bad thing. LOL! Don't get me wrong,every day's a school day!

I wouldn't, if you want to maintain flow rates then 25mm minimum. A lot depends on how much pressure you have on the supply. Less than 3 bar and it would have to be 25mm in my opinion, close to 1 bar, you may want to consider 32mm. Don't get me wrong, you CAN supply a place with 20mm, but you won't be fitting power showers or similar and expect water starvation issues with more than one outlet open.

What is the filtration set up on the unit. External box filters, sump(s), or (shudder) internal filters? ..or did you try to go natural and allow the living rock to process everything?

You'd hope I'd be there or thereabouts after making a living out of it for nigh on twenty years now...but thanks.

Well, it would have been rude to have not sent him a message through his FB page wouldn't it, nothing rude, or insulting, just questioning his reasoning. especially reading through some of the quotes on his wall... Actually, cancel the friend request. Just answer me a question. As per your quote of 'Its simple. Love one another. Hate no one.', how do you reconcile that with your recent letter in the local rag suggesting that shooters be paraded through St Albans while being punched and knifed? Hypocrite? Probably. Shouting for the sake of being heard? Even more likely. In a whole world of trouble as the local shooting fraternity are now most likely looking to communicate with you personally (and lets face it, it's not hard to find you), oh yes, I do believe so. Good luck fella.

How much more heat output will I get out of a double VS single? Assuming you get one with double convectors( fins in between) you can reckon on a 60%+ increase. The Boiler is a Vaillant EcoMax 824 if that matters and will it be noticeable. Boiler will cope and as long as the rad gets fully hot, top to bottom, then the new one should throw twice as much heat out, but... The room is 3Mx4M but also have the main stairs in the room. Therein may lie your problem, the stairs will funnel much of the heat upstairs, you should improve the situation, but also look at how much heat may be going up and if you can reduce it keeping upstairs doors shut etc. Can the people in the know recommend a good brand and what sort of £££ I'm looking at? Anything to Eurpean standard/kitemarked will do the job. Myson, Stelrad are a couple of names but most heating engineers will use a heating merchants own brand. If I get a double will the connections be in the same place or do they come with narrower brackets to facilitate replacing a single with a double? I'm hoping to not have to redo any pipework. A double rad has to be deeper, you're unlikely to get any rad that won't require some alteration to the pipes, however, if the pipes are into a suspended wooden floor, you MAY have enough movement in the pipes. Is there anything you can recommend that I can put behind it to reflect off the wall and keep the heat in the house? The insulated foil that sticks on behind the rad is allegedly effective, never used it myself so can't confirm. Last question I know I'll have to drain the system down before replacing it but once it's replaced can I just take the cap off where the bleed screw is housed and replace the inhibitor there or does it need to go somewhere else? Doesn't matter where you put it back in the system so long as it goes in.

Saw it at the weekend with 3 others, they all enjoyed, and classified it as 'Good'. I thought it was Ok, but nothing special. It's not a bad film by any stretch, but it's not a great film either in my opinion. Worth seeing? I'd have waited for the DVD had I known.