CaptainBeaky

You'll need to message the seller via GunWatch, as they aren't a pw member.

There's an idea - just had a look on YouTube, and it looks relatively easy to do. I have some metallic grey goatskin left over from another job which would easily re-stain black, so I'll have a try with that over a solid pad.

The stock is actually cut for a pad with the top nib, like the Silver's No4, although this would require a bit more grinding down to fit. Am I going to get a lot of stick if I choose a black pad? Not keen on the red option, and the "Best London Orange" looks hideous

Be patient, have a steady hand, keep the tool clean, and be very patient! If you are recutting worn chequering, go over all the lines lightly before you start cutting to full depth. If you cut all the lines in one direction first, you may find you lose some of the lines going the other way :(

May just be my phone acting up...

Can't see any photos, unfortunately, but serious kudos for actually attempting the job in the first place!

I was planning on replacing it with a Silvers pad or similar, rather than grafting on a replacement wooden section, so it shouldn't change the balance.

You're right about the pad - it's an old Pachmayr White Line, possibly late 70s/early 80s. It's on the list for replacement with something more in keeping, but at the moment, it fits fairly well, and I want to get out and shoot with it.

Hi all I bought this late last year from a member here, as a winter project, with a view to sprucing it up and possibly selling on. However, I discovered I liked shooting it, so... Made in 1922 by WW Greener in Birmingham: Lots of battle scars on the woodwork Chequering in a right old state - mostly worn almost flat, and not actually very even. A vertical crack through the head of the stock appeared to have been glued before, but without de-oiling, so hadn't held. De-oiled, drilled, pinned and glued. Many years worth of cack inside the action was gently removed. The safety was really stiff to use, due to the aforementioned cack, and had worn almost smooth, making it even more difficult. Serrations recut with needle files, cleaned and lubricated - much smoother now. The safety actuator rod was also worn - a piece had been brazed on sometime in the past to repair it, but this had also worn down, so I removed the repair, making it a manual-only safety. I will return it to auto the next time I have the tig welder out. Re-chequered and refinished with Tung oil. Apologies for the poor mobile phone photos - new phone arriving soon, hopefully! Thanks for looking Peter Out and about

Yup, had this one yesterday, just purporting to be representing Barclays, and with a different fake name at the bottom. Filed under F-off, naturally.

Perfectly put. A sad loss to humanity.

Piano, guitar, trumpet, tuba, and learned to play the accordion somewhat for the Dad's Army stage play last year. Mainly play in folk clubs and pubs. Now brushing up the brass in preparation for a local production of Return to the Forbidden Planet, hopefully happening next year.

Beaten to it! A lot of the cheap 18650 cells ARE recycled laptop batteries, and do not have the protection circuits that a decent cell has (removed when the laptop battery is stripped down). Unprotected cells can, and do, go bang if overcharged.

Loved it! Kudos to your good lady for hatching such a brilliant present, and to OF for providing the necessary. Now waiting with bated breath for the next episode...

I'd be slightly surprised if your longer barrels are as long as 30". The shorter pair are probably skeet/skeet or cylinder/improved cylinder, and the longer pair are most likely full and ridiculously full. Bores are chrome lined, and choke adjustment is usually done by shortening the barrels.

That sounds like a 628 - o/u, I take it? A Baikal 627 (also classified as an IJ27), sold with two sets of barrels. From the serial number, it is pre-1987, but more I couldn't say. Try asking on the Baikal owners sub-forum on shotgunworld - a chap going by the handle of Humpty Dumpty is quite an authority on the subject.

Yup :(

Concur. If I'm shooting clays with my auto, I always check the gun is clear before I turn to leave the stand - bolt open and locked back. It only needs a turn of the wrist and a downward glance to check - you'd check to make your cases had ejected with a break action, wouldn't you?

Welcome to pw, from another Kentishman

Wasn't the Feinwerkbau 300 the first match quality air rifle with a fixed barrel and side lever? I remember the Original 75 coming out, as the update to the break-barrel 66, using the same opposed-piston recoilless system, and in direct competition with the FWB 300. Very nice rifle, but too expensive for me at the time to trade up from my 66

If it cooled down slowly, it's unlikely to have hardened. More likely you will have taken the temper out of the face, and it will now dent whenever you hit anything with it :(

Another one who would definitely be able to do it is a chap on the British Blades forum who goes by the user name of Longstrider. I think I have his email address somewhere...

Our exercise your Google-fu for "two-brick forge" - that's what I use, total cost about ten quid.

Sorry!Heat it up to red/orange - check by touching the piece to a large magnet. When the steel is no longer attracted to the magnet, that is the critical temperature. Keep it at that point for 30 seconds or so, then quench it as above, and test with a file. If it does prove to harden sufficiently, then you need to anneal it do it can be worked: heat it as before, hold at the critical temperature for 30 seconds, then leave to cool as slowly as possible. When cold it will be as soft as it will get,, and ready to cut/file.

The two pieces of kit go together -one of the hoses on the demand valve has a quick release connector to go onto the spigot on the breathing tube on the ABLJ. This is to inflate the jacket (to adjust buoyancy) direct from your suit tank.