cdb Posted January 2, 2010 Report Share Posted January 2, 2010 I bought a new hard-wired oven, exactly the same style, shape and size as the old one. I simply unwired the old one and wired up the new one in the same way. The new oven works fine. The wife mentioned something about having to get a qualified electrician to fit major appliances. Does anyone have any experience of this? Would you fit a replacement hard-wired oven yourself or would you get an electrician in? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philm Posted January 2, 2010 Report Share Posted January 2, 2010 I'd do it myself. I contract on a LNG terminal Working on 100 bar gas equipment and pipework, then they tell you you have to be corgi registered to work at home (1 bar) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulf Posted January 2, 2010 Report Share Posted January 2, 2010 Im not sure if it does as you are not actualy altering the wireing, no different from changing a light switch faceplate. No doubt someone will have a definitave answer. Personally I would just change it asuming the wireing is modern and the oven the same spec as the one it is replacing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cannon Posted January 2, 2010 Report Share Posted January 2, 2010 The only issue you may encounter is voiding the warranty. Some of these manufacturers cover their backs by stating that you have to get a qualified electrician to install the appliance. Personally though, I'd do it myself (I actually did do it myself not that long ago). No different from wiring a new socket Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fullbore Posted January 2, 2010 Report Share Posted January 2, 2010 AFAIK only qualified electricians can work in the kitchens and bathrooms of houses Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RC45 Posted January 2, 2010 Report Share Posted January 2, 2010 I have done it! I'm sure you won't be the last. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cdb Posted January 2, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2010 Im not sure if it does as you are not actualy altering the wireing, no different from changing a light switch faceplate. No doubt someone will have a definitave answer. Personally I would just change it asuming the wireing is modern and the oven the same spec as the one it is replacing. That's what I thought. I didn't need to go near the cooker ring or mess around with the dedicated isolator switch, so as you say, it was just like changing a socket. The only issue you may encounter is voiding the warranty. Some of these manufacturers cover their backs by stating that you have to get a qualified electrician to install the appliance. Personally though, I'd do it myself (I actually did do it myself not that long ago). No different from wiring a new socket Not fussed about that as we'll be selling up and moving on soon. Can't see the the thing breaking down before then. Thanks for all the posts. I'm going to just leave it in there and not bother with an electrician. The thing works fine and I can't see how I could have created a H&S issue. Knew I could count on the PW Forum for a friendly ear. Cheers chaps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peck Posted January 2, 2010 Report Share Posted January 2, 2010 (edited) "" AFAIK only qualified electricians can work in the kitchens and bathrooms of houses "" what a load of tosh. Edited January 2, 2010 by peck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stealth Stalker Posted January 2, 2010 Report Share Posted January 2, 2010 You'll have no problem with that just don't tell anyone SS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fullbore Posted January 2, 2010 Report Share Posted January 2, 2010 "" AFAIK only qualified electricians can work in the kitchens and bathrooms of houses "" what a load of tosh. Pray enlighten us with your undoubted wisdom, what is part P about then? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yellow Bear Posted January 2, 2010 Report Share Posted January 2, 2010 The regs on houses in many ways are a money making issue - I work with an Electrical specialist, fully qualified to switch HV, Instal, fully test, and certify instalations of any type in any building including the likes of Hospitals (but not houses), but because he has not taken the £800 course for domestics he can't officially even rewire his own home. Stupid or what - we have a newly qualified "spark" who has done the course and scraped a pass that can - go figure :yp: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pegleg31 Posted January 2, 2010 Report Share Posted January 2, 2010 part p is like corgi,it's good in theory but it's also a load of tripe. as long as your competant in electrics you'll be fine.but it should be done by a part p qaulified spark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guinea Fowl Posted January 2, 2010 Report Share Posted January 2, 2010 Pray enlighten us with your undoubted wisdom, what is part P about then? Plumbers with Part P defined scope can work in bathroom and kitchen for elec shower unit`s and the like`s. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fullbore Posted January 2, 2010 Report Share Posted January 2, 2010 part p is like corgi,it's good in theory but it's also a load of tripe. as long as your competant in electrics you'll be fine.but it should be done by a part p qaulified spark Absolutely, I concur, but AFAIK kitchen and bathroom DIY electrics is a big no no. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apache Posted January 2, 2010 Report Share Posted January 2, 2010 Like for like replacements are not notifiable (even in a special location) and you can tell who you like what you did because it's all legal and above board! See the full part P document if you are interested! The problem comes when you upgrade the item and the circuit is unable to cope with the added demand. The classic is buying a replacement electric shower and upgrading from 7.5KW to 9.5KW increasing your load from 32.6A up to 41.3A, could overload the wire and the circuit protective device (MCB). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fullbore Posted January 2, 2010 Report Share Posted January 2, 2010 Plumbers with Part P defined scope can work in bathroom and kitchen for elec shower unit`s and the like`s. AFAIK only qualified electricians can work in the kitchens and bathrooms of houses Isn't that what I said? Part P defined scope would see him as qualified no? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badshot Posted January 2, 2010 Report Share Posted January 2, 2010 Like for like replacements are not notifiable (even in a special location) and you can tell who you like what you did because it's all legal and above board! See the full part P document if you are interested! The problem comes when you upgrade the item and the circuit is unable to cope with the added demand. The classic is buying a replacement electric shower and upgrading from 7.5KW to 9.5KW increasing your load from 32.6A up to 41.3A, could overload the wire and the circuit protective device (MCB). Thats what I thought it was but I am a colourblind farmer not a sparky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom&Dexter Posted January 2, 2010 Report Share Posted January 2, 2010 Simple job Turn leccy off change like for like No part P or Electrician required Job done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJN Posted January 2, 2010 Report Share Posted January 2, 2010 it'll only be a problem if someone gets electrocuted by the appliance, if we followed all the b.s. rules firms like BQ would not sell any electrical parts. I today replaced a fused switch plate in the kitchen as the fuse holder had blown cost 5.98 had I had to call the sparkie it would have had to wait a week or more and cost 100.00 ! M. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apache Posted January 2, 2010 Report Share Posted January 2, 2010 it'll only be a problem if someone gets electrocuted by the appliance, if we followed all the b.s. rules firms like BQ would not sell any electrical parts. I today replaced a fused switch plate in the kitchen as the fuse holder had blown cost 5.98 had I had to call the sparkie it would have had to wait a week or more and cost 100.00 !M. Yes, but the sparky would have found the fault with the connected appliance that caused the fuse to blow in the first place Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
myzeneye Posted January 2, 2010 Report Share Posted January 2, 2010 (edited) part p is like corgi,it's good in theory but it's also a load of tripe. as long as your competant in electrics you'll be fine.but it should be done by a part p qaulified spark wrong. part "p" is actually a qualification. (not a very good one,but still).... corgi (which is no longer the governing body and holds no authaurity whatsoever) is (was) merely a registration scheme which was manditory for anyone who worked with gas. yes granted you have to be qualified to become a member, but corgi itself, or gas safe as it is now, is not a qualification... whislt both schemes are a bit of a joke, their intentions are good.... their objective at the end of the day is to try and offer some level of proof of basic competance to the consumer. what they are not however, and are often completley mistaken for is a proof of high skill level or quality of work or high level of knowledge/technical ability etc.... I'd do it myself.I contract on a LNG terminal Working on 100 bar gas equipment and pipework, then they tell you you have to be corgi registered to work at home (1 bar) not having a pop mate but there inlies the point..... you may well work on commercial gas installation daily...doesnt mean you know squat about domestic gas legislation... for instance... you say you have "1 bar" at home :yp: if you have1 bar , which i seriously doubt you have, then you should perhaps have someone take a look... hahaha... a typical domestic gas installation would have a working pressure of around 21 millibars.... thats a pressure equal to 0.021 bars........................not even nearly one bar. whilst i know the score with joint making, and the carachtoristics of combustion of gas etc etc , i know nothing at all about commercial gas saftey, testing pressures etc etc ...and would not presume myself competant to work on it... not having a go mate, honest but i know i myself as a domestic gas fitter would struggle in a commercial setting as i can clearly see that you yourself are unclear on the domestic scale of things... gas rates, ventillation, regulations etc etc...which are all there, not to waste the paper they are written on, but to prevent tradgic incidents happeneing... when these incidents do happen, they have usually been caused by someone with blatent disreguard to the regs. Gas Safe (corgi) is there to "try" and protect. i dont like paying the fee's as much as anyone, but i do see their point. as for the cooker.....hahaha....if you are gonna do it yer self... makes sure all the terminals are bloody tight. this is the biggest cause of house fires etc.. a diy'er will usually cause when doing work them selves... Edited January 2, 2010 by myzeneye Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjimmer Posted January 2, 2010 Report Share Posted January 2, 2010 Absolutely, I concur, but AFAIK kitchen and bathroom DIY electrics is a big no no. I think any house electrics is a no no for DIYers nowadays. Changing a lightbulb or a fuse is OK, I think. You even have to be qualified and go through building regs to install a woodburner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proud dad Posted January 3, 2010 Report Share Posted January 3, 2010 Apache has got it spot on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apache Posted January 3, 2010 Report Share Posted January 3, 2010 wrong. part "p" is actually a qualification. (not a very good one,but still).... No it's not. It's a building regulation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slug Posted January 3, 2010 Report Share Posted January 3, 2010 No it's not. It's a building regulation. Yep and so it goes on.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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