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Audi A4 Avant 1.9tdi


margun
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Does anyone have experience with this engine? It's fitted to many many cars (Golf GT TDIs, Passats, various Audis). I'm looking to buy an 03/04 A4 Avant, to be used for motorway cruising (75miles per day)

 

Apart from the dual mass flywheel, is there anything that would stop this engine going for 200k+ miles with regular maintenance? I'm fed up of buying cheap tat that breaks down all the time :oops: so looking to spend up to £5.5k for the right car, a 3 year keeper. It looks like I can get one in good nick for my budget with FSH and 100-110k miles. Am I mad?

 

Also manual or auto? I love autos and don't mind the extra fuel consumption, but I'm confused about multitronic/tiptronic/CVT gearboxes, as I've heard that the multitronic is actually a CVT transmission and is rubbish? Is there a way to tell which auto box is fitted or should I just get a manual?

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I had an 2003 Audi Avant 1.9TDi, I loved the car to bits, only major problem I had was with intermittent clutch judder (common fault) had a new clutch and engine reprogramming to cure it all under warranty.

 

Because it’s a Pump Duse engine the ejectors are expensive to replace compared to normal injectors should they go down.

The belt needs changing at 60K intervals and its a front off the car job, the plastic impeller and tensioner needs changing at the same time (it’s not a cheap job so check when the next one is due).

 

Check the electrics as well, the bulkhead drain holes fill with leaves and water comes in through the micro filter causing all kinds of electrical woes due to water damage. Had this happen to mine but luckily no damage just a car full of water, I had a recall letter to fix this problem sometime after I sold the car though so it’s a common issue.

 

The coolant temp sensor has a fault (black) and they brought an updated one out (green one is the updated one) I changed mine without draining the system in less than 10 mins for about £12. The EGR valve can clog up but it’s not difficult to clean.

 

Overall a good car and I would have another, I did try the auto when buying mine, it seemed ok to me but I went for the manual due to the deal so not much experience with it.

 

:good:

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Id stick wih manual and there great cars, look after it well and it will easily do 300k+

 

Atb

 

at that kind of mileage it's not if but when it fails the manual would probably be a more sensible option even if you have to fork out for a dual mass flywheel ( and you almost certainly will )

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Thanks for the replies chaps, I think I'll be looking for one seriously then, a manual 1.9tdi with the service history an important factor. I plan to put around 100k on the car (motorway mainly so not too strenuous) so it would be over 200k when I got rid in 3 years time. I love that shape though with the rectangular grill, the B6 model I think it is.

 

My budget allows a 100-120k car, the diesels obviously hold their value better than the petrols, but if these things are as strong and well built as their reputation suggests it shouldn't be an issue.

 

at that kind of mileage it's not if but when it fails the manual would probably be a more sensible option even if you have to fork out for a dual mass flywheel ( and you almost certainly will )

 

I'm going to budget for the cam belt, water pump and dual mass flywheel (DMFW is ~£300 from Euros, v quick search, mate's Auntie Stella rates to fit), so if I account an extra £500 on the purchase price of the car, job should be a good'un.

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Every one for there own personally i do 1200 miles a week can't justify spending good money on a motor for when i'm done with it goes to the scrap yard i only use it for work and shooting pugs 306 diesel do the business for me last one i done 240,000 :) got another one paid 450 for it had it 3mths done 23,000 already

Cheers Mark

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Every one for there own personally i do 1200 miles a week can't justify spending good money on a motor for when i'm done with it goes to the scrap yard i only use it for work and shooting pugs 306 diesel do the business for me last one i done 240,000 :) got another one paid 450 for it had it 3mths done 23,000 already

Cheers Mark

 

I see your point but I've tried 3 cheap cars and they always seem to break on me. The 2 decent cars I've bought have been much more reliable. Part of it is also that I love cars as a whole and my commute is an hour each way, which over a month tots up a nice 40hrs or so in the car (an extra working week), so the toys and comforts of a nice car are very appealing.

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Every one for there own personally i do 1200 miles a week can't justify spending good money on a motor for when i'm done with it goes to the scrap yard i only use it for work and shooting pugs 306 diesel do the business for me last one i done 240,000 :) got another one paid 450 for it had it 3mths done 23,000 already

Cheers Mark

Tell me about it :(

I have had 3 306d turbo's, 2 nice ones and the last one was a runabout, but a very economical and reliable one.

It went year to year passing MOT's not needing a single new part.

I thought I would treat myself to a 'better' car so bought a Golf Mk4 TDi 130

14 months later it has had: dual mass flywheel/clutch and slave/replacement exhaust and cat (front to back)heater sensor/glow plugs/crank sensor/fuel filter and it still has an intermittent starting issue (and needs a clutch master cylinder IMO)

In future I would Google issue before buying rather than after and see the number of hits you get.

I would also consider buying the full version of VAG Com to decode and reset the ecu errors yourself.

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I thought I would treat myself to a 'better' car so bought a Golf Mk4 TDi 130

14 months later it has had: dual mass flywheel/clutch and slave/replacement exhaust and cat (front to back)heater sensor/glow plugs/crank sensor/fuel filter and it still has an intermittent starting issue (and needs a clutch master cylinder IMO)

 

Dear oh dear. VW are supposed to be reliable too. So the DMFW and clutch are the common issue here.

 

The problem with modern cars over old ones is the cost of repairs. I had a mk3 Golf GTi, 2.0L 8V and in 2 years, 60k miles all that went apart from the tyres was rear NS shock absorber (£22 from Euros on my mates trade account) and the ignition coil (£26). Both were easy repairs on my driveway. Eventually the chocolate gearbox gave up and rust killed it but I loved that car.

 

Someone at work has VAG-com downloaded from Rosstech free, would this do or is there somewhere else to buy a 'proper' version?

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I <think> the freeware version lets you read the codes only it can't write back?

TBH that is all you need most of the time, I got mine read last week that pointed me at the crank sensor, which has helped massively if not completely resloved the starting problem.

MK4 Golfs aren't reliable in the traditional sense I knew that before I bought it so I only have myself to blame.

 

http://www.honestjohn.co.uk/carbycar/volkswagen/golf-iv-1998/?section=bad

 

Actually reading that reminded me that the boot lock also failed so I had to speand a day stripping that down only to find the washer fluid had leaked into it and rusted it all up..

 

I bought a Golf despite all this as I really like them, I had 4 or 5 years ago as company cars and put 1000 miles/week on all of them no problems at all.

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I had vag com, it is very good, that’s how I knew the temp sensor was gone.

I used it to retrofit a factory Cruise control for about £200 in parts also beep when the alarm was armed and a few other things.

 

On the B6 you can buy a cheap cable off ebay & use the free version, or as I did buy the licence in conjunction with the cheap cable off Ebay, this is a lot cheaper than the official cable and gives you full functionality.

 

On the newer versions (B7) you have to buy the official cable as it uses HEX-USB+CAN Interface but this does included a licence.

 

VAG com is made by Ross Tec so that's the best place to get it from.

 

Ask any questions you want to know about it here TSN

I used to post a lot on there but it’s been a while since I have been on because my Audi has gone.

:good:

Edited by timps
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You mentioned the diesel pugs, we were in the garage looking at a new cars and while talking to the bloke he had a taxi driver who bought his 406 1.9 NA in for a service, 465,000 miles !!!!! and nothing major ever done on it just had regular services. As for the A4 very nice car and reliable but my friend had one and it has gone wrong a couple of times, not broken down just electrical faults or warning codes but every time he aint got change from £500.00, it is the 2.5 quattro so more to go wrong than the standard 1.9.

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Good engines but if I were you I'd swap out the water pump for one with a metal impeller and I'd replace the coolant sensor on the back of the head. The original water pumps are utter garbage, having a plastic impeller on a metal shaft which weat loose. Coolant doesn't get circulated properly which you'll hardly notice because the engine is thermally efficient and the dodgy coolant sensors weren't up to much. First you'll notice is a low coolant warning indicating coolant system being overpressurised by a blown head gasket. Don't let this put you off, they are great engines but like most, they have a couple of things to watch out. Oh and in case you didn't know, use VW PD rated oil.

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swap out the water pump for one with a metal impeller

 

Oh and in case you didn't know, use VW PD rated oil.

 

I was speaking to a colleague today with the 115bhp version of this in his Alhambra, when he changed his water pump he said the same thing - the plastic impeller was loose and spinning around on the shaft :yp:

 

I guess the VW rated oil is a special from Audi / VW?

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I was speaking to a colleague today with the 115bhp version of this in his Alhambra, when he changed his water pump he said the same thing - the plastic impeller was loose and spinning around on the shaft :yp:

 

I guess the VW rated oil is a special from Audi / VW?

 

Yep it's quite common and can be disastrous if you don't notice in time.

 

The VW spec for fixed service intervals is VW 505.01, it specifies oil that is capable of withstanding the very high loads the unit injectors run under. Lower spec oils will suffer VI improver shear down resulting in a rapid loss of viscosity i.e. it won't be protecting your engine. Using lesser spec oils in a PD is a sure fire way to reduce it's lifespan.

 

Take a look here for examples http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-751-vw-50501-oil.aspx

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I bought a Audi A4 2.0lt s-line saloon year 2005 on the 9th of dec 11, ive only had it 3 weeks and the power steering has failed, contact the dealer i bought it from, and they said take it to a independant garaged to get it inspected, booked in my local, and they priced it at £650, turns out the power steering rack has failed, turns out to be a big job.

 

phoned my dealer and they are collecting the car from my local. Now waiting to find out when i get it back, good job it covered by warenty

 

I will say its a very nice car very quick and good on fuel if you take it steady, mine cost £70 to fill the tank and will do 560miles on it.

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Now that's bang tidy tom&dexter, ack-ack has a nice one in mars red :good:

 

Still not flogged yours then Rob?

 

No fella but I must admit I'm not exactly trying very hard :sad1:

 

thats a proper car :good:

 

Wish i still had my old one 40k on it from new and still in og paint

 

dextersnow026.jpg

 

Love VW and Audi Iam currently thinking of a Avant S Line

 

:drool: :drool: Cracking ride fella. I love the subtly molested look :good:

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If the engine uses the KKK turbo then they can be a weak point. I run a Fabia vRS with the PD130 engine in it and haven't had any issues with it at all. Cam belt change cost £300 including metal water pump at an VAG specialist.

 

For parts I find the best place for service items is http://www.vwspares.co.uk/ 5l of oil is £25 and the Quantum stuff they sell is the same stuff the dealer uses.

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