mikky Posted March 8, 2012 Report Share Posted March 8, 2012 last night my lad came home and said he had a slow puncture...yes i had to go out and show him how to change a wheel ( should be part of passing your test..along with checking oil etc....anyway..loosened nuts,jacked it up,removed the nuts....spent 15 mins trying to remove wheel...no chance the alloy had welded itself to the the brake drum........took it to the garage and it took the mechanic 5 minutes of continually whacking the inside of the tyre ( on the ramp )to get the wheel off......so i recommend anyone with original tyres that have been on for years with alloy wheels...go to your local tyre centre and get them to take your wheels off and put them back on again,,cos if you get a puncture you will have no chance of changing your wheel at the road side...this is if you have alloys and original tyres more than 3 yrs old..apparently its normal for older cars with alloy wheels...if we had a blow out on the motorway it would have been a nightmare..please take your car to the nearest tyre centre and get them to take your wheels off..they will do it foc mikky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ack-ack Posted March 8, 2012 Report Share Posted March 8, 2012 (edited) Bi-metallic reaction. Never had a tyre go more than 12 mths without needing a puncture repair down here. Always seem to pick up thorn, especially late winter when they are cutting the chuffing hedges and leaving it all in the load Edited March 9, 2012 by ack-ack Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilR Posted March 8, 2012 Report Share Posted March 8, 2012 I use copperslip on the face of the hub where it mates to the wheel centre to prevent that happening. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diceman Posted March 8, 2012 Report Share Posted March 8, 2012 (edited) Not just 3 years old...mate had a 6 month old Audi that had the same problem, had to go to the dealers as the AA gave up before they did any damage. Smear of grease on the hubs should prevent it. edit.. just beat me to it Phil! Edited March 8, 2012 by Diceman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WelshLamb Posted March 8, 2012 Report Share Posted March 8, 2012 crack the wheelnuts off, unscrew them a few turns, drive a few yards forwards and backwards. works every time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_b_wales Posted March 8, 2012 Report Share Posted March 8, 2012 crack the wheelnuts off, unscrew them a few turns, drive a few yards forwards and backwards. works every time Damn good tip that! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Asa Bear Posted March 8, 2012 Report Share Posted March 8, 2012 Can't see your local garage spending time taking your wheels off and refitting them foc when they charge £1 to inflate a tyre! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaun4860 Posted March 8, 2012 Report Share Posted March 8, 2012 crack the wheelnuts off, unscrew them a few turns, drive a few yards forwards and backwards. works every time "cracking" idea that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catweazle Posted March 9, 2012 Report Share Posted March 9, 2012 The "few yards forwards and backwards" tip is good, but won't work if you've done a bit of deep off-roading and the wheels are well corroded. Try loosening the wheel nuts a turn and driving around in circles until you hear them "crack" loose, sometimes even that doesn't work, in which case you need to pull the wheels off with a three jaw puller. My rangerover had a wheel well and truly stuck on, it took a three jaw puller into the middle of the wheel to get it off. The puller doesn't really want to grip inside the hole in the middle of the wheel, slip a 3/4" socket or purpose made round spacer over the puller screw to hold the puller arms out into the wheel and prevent them slipping inwards. Plenty of copperslip afterwards stops it happening again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Imperfection Posted March 9, 2012 Report Share Posted March 9, 2012 Bi-metallic reaction. Yeah,had that before in my yoof when i had hooligan cars with big fat alloys.The biggest problem is when you've jacked the car up you have to crawl under it so you can get enough swing and momentum to hit the inside of rim,but you need testicles the size of footballs because it just seems so wrong being under there clouting the wheel.A real anus twitching exercise! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StuC Posted March 9, 2012 Report Share Posted March 9, 2012 I wouldn't use copper slip on any part of a car. Someone already mentioned bi-mettalic reaction/corrosion. COPPER slip just adds a 3rd metal. Use something like Cera-Tec brake lubricant, but most importantly clean the hub and wheel surfaces. 'Mechanics' use copper slip as some sort of sign that they have worked on the car. How many cars leave the factory plastered with copper slip? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luvbus Posted March 9, 2012 Report Share Posted March 9, 2012 Problem is worse these days as most wheels are now 'hub centric' ie, the wieght of the car is taken by a tight fitting lip that engages the centre of the wheel rather than by the studs on older cars/landies etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al4x Posted March 9, 2012 Report Share Posted March 9, 2012 club hammer works well Had my mum with a puncture a few months ago, had some kind soul helping her got it as far as on a jack and nuts off but couldn't shift it, swore there was something he was missing and it couldn't be rusted on. Very embarrased when I drove the 45 miles there gave it one slap and off it came Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tam Posted March 11, 2012 Report Share Posted March 11, 2012 I wouldn't use copper slip on any part of a car. Someone already mentioned bi-mettalic reaction/corrosion. COPPER slip just adds a 3rd metal. Use something like Cera-Tec brake lubricant, but most importantly clean the hub and wheel surfaces. 'Mechanics' use copper slip as some sort of sign that they have worked on the car. How many cars leave the factory plastered with copper slip? :no: Copper slip is an anti seize compound & it works :yes: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StuC Posted March 11, 2012 Report Share Posted March 11, 2012 I don't disagree that it works and it has it's place, just not on a hub/wheel/brake assembly. It is also conductive, which can cause ABS/pad wear sensor issues on some modern vehicles (Mini IIRC). I know many people use it, but not for me thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david hunter Posted March 11, 2012 Report Share Posted March 11, 2012 took my old granada to have the tyres changed one wheel was stuck.the tyre fitter give it a whack with a hammer from the inside of the wheel and the central locking locked all the doors with my keys inside.so leave a window open. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.