Wildfowler Posted March 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2013 I spent a bit of time today looking into the spreader chokes. Looks like they were popular in Vietnam, also known as duckbill chokes. http://www.shotgunworld.com/bbs/viewtopic.php?t=156821 Im not sure how this particular design would work with steel shot though! This one might work a little better with steel though... http://photos.imageevent.com/ricklarson/gunparts/large/DB2.JPG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildfowler Posted March 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2013 I spent a few hours out in the workshop yesterday on the punt. I finally got around to putting the last latches on the wash boards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildfowler Posted March 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2013 Now we're ready for the fishing season! If and when the decent weather arrives i'll get it out of the workshop and start getting the mast and rigging set up... Then we'll be set for some sailing too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rustybucket Posted March 31, 2013 Report Share Posted March 31, 2013 Just found this thread and all I can say is amazing! Really looking forward to seeing the gun being made. I just wish I had the know how to make something similar. Best of luck and looking forward to future instalments Rustybucket Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kev56 Posted March 31, 2013 Report Share Posted March 31, 2013 I spent a bit of time today looking into the spreader chokes. Looks like they were popular in Vietnam, also known as duckbill chokes. http://www.shotgunworld.com/bbs/viewtopic.php?t=156821 Im not sure how this particular design would work with steel shot though! This one might work a little better with steel though... http://photos.imageevent.com/ricklarson/gunparts/large/DB2.JPG Any idea why the top one is shaped like a figure 8, the bottom one seems like it would do the job Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildfowler Posted March 31, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2013 (edited) I don't 'know' but I would imagine it stops or at least minimises the number of stray pellets to the side. If you look at the pattern the figure of 8 gives, it's very uniform whereas i would imagine the one with cut aways to the side gives more of a tapered pattern... As I say, I don't know but that would be my guess. Hopefully I'll find out soon and I can share the results with you guys... Edited March 31, 2013 by Wildfowler Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Mat Posted March 31, 2013 Report Share Posted March 31, 2013 Out of curiosity, what shot will you be using in the cartridges? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildfowler Posted March 31, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2013 I plan on using steel or ITM, different ends of the spectrum I know but steel for the obvious reason of cost, but if ITM proves to be vastly superior when i pattern the pair then I'll use that. As the shot will be BB or larger it limits what is available! I'll pattern a few different options and see what the results are like... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Bb Posted March 31, 2013 Report Share Posted March 31, 2013 Now we're ready for the fishing season! If and when the decent weather arrives i'll get it out of the workshop and start getting the mast and rigging set up... Then we'll be set for some sailing too! Sailing too! Truely a boat for all seasons. So, lee-boards or a keel of some description & what about a rudder? Gunter rigged? This just gets better by the day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildfowler Posted March 31, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2013 Ill use Lee boards if I have to but I know a few guys that don't even bother with those... I've got some parts for the rudder but I need the pintles and gudgeons. I need to get some stainless strips cut for the stem and stern before I can put the rudder on, I did start cutting them by hand but it was eating blades so I'll get them lazer cut out! I've got a gaf rigged mirror mast as the sails, etc are easy to get hold of, but with minor mods I would like to have the ability to make it suitable for a lug to for those lazy days... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildfowler Posted April 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2013 I haven't had much time to spend on the project for a while now but i did find a rotary phase converter on ebay... the seller removed the listing just before it ended! i was gutted! Just hoping another one comes up soon. In the meantime I've been cleaning the machines up so they are looking tip top. My youngest son came out and got stuck in last weekend which was really nice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandspider Posted April 10, 2013 Report Share Posted April 10, 2013 Just stumbled across this topic, and read it through from end to end. Wow! What a project, and what skills. I love the look of the bare wood of the punt skeleton. I sometimes go to a pub in the Norfolk Broads which has an old punt gun on the wall. It was slightly spoilt for me when an old bloke told me it was made from scaffolding pipe for wall decoration! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fruitloop Posted April 12, 2013 Report Share Posted April 12, 2013 (edited) why don't you make a rotary phase converter you look a handy chap all that it in one is a 3 phase motor and some capacitors to get the motor going Edited April 12, 2013 by fruitloop Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildfowler Posted April 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2013 (edited) I have started collecting parts to make one but to get them for a reasonable price will take some time. So I plan to buy one and get the machines set up and working, use it to make the gun etc and in the meantime make a new phase converter, then I can sell the one I've bought. If I get a decent second hand one it shouldn't loose much value... And this way I can get started! Edited to add: I'm pretty poor at electronics so if anyone can give me a list of the capacitors I need and maybe a good place to buy them from, it would be a big help! The largest motor I need to run is 5.5kW so I planned on using a 7.5kw slave motor (which I can hopefully get from work)... Any advice welcomed! Edited April 12, 2013 by Wildfowler Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catweazle Posted April 12, 2013 Report Share Posted April 12, 2013 The rotary conversion method works better the more motors you have running from it. For example, you might be able to use a smaller slave motor to start a lathe and then start the mill from those two. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildfowler Posted April 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2013 Yesterday evening i changed the consumer unit in the workshop to allow for the extra MCB required for the rotary phase converter, i've also uprated the one in the house consumer unit for the garage feed... I've run seperate cables to the spot where the converter will sit so it was all ready... And the rotary phase converter arrived late this afternoon!!! So after work i wired it up, wired up both the lathe and the mill and switched it all on! I mixed up some fresh coolant and we we're away! All working perfectly!!! Now i need to get a DRO for the lathe and the material to start making the gun! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TIGHTCHOKE Posted April 20, 2013 Report Share Posted April 20, 2013 That's a cracking set up you have there W.F. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hornet 6 Posted April 20, 2013 Report Share Posted April 20, 2013 Why a DRO for the lathe ? I may consider one for the mill, although I spent many years earning a living without one. But I see no real gain in fitting one to the lathe, I'd rather spend the money of materials and tooling. Neil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildfowler Posted April 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2013 Just because I prefer using a dro over dials... If it was a dro or material then I'd agree with you but I'll get material and tooling as and when I need it regardless so I might as well get it. Not having one at the moment certainly won't stop me cracking on with the gun that's for sure! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penelope Posted April 25, 2013 Report Share Posted April 25, 2013 Good to see the project still rolling on . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
la bala Posted April 25, 2013 Report Share Posted April 25, 2013 good to see you on track. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildfowler Posted April 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2013 Thanks for the comments... I've been spending the evening this week cleaning up the mill and getting the DRO working. When i bought them the guy said the DRO didnt work bot didn't know what was wrong with it. I was expecting it to be the power board which is a common fault on the Heidenhain units but once i had power to the machine the dro unit started up perfectly... it was obviously the linear scales not working. Usually one wouldn't contemplate taking apart glass scales but i figured it doesn't work as it is so it cant get any worse! So i took them apart and the glass itself was covered in dirt... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildfowler Posted April 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2013 I put it back together but still no joy... On further investigation of the reader head, it was apparent that the light had come dislodged where the 4 tiny AV mounts had broken where the rubber has gone hard. A small dab of glue later it was all back together Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildfowler Posted April 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2013 I had to adjust the reader head and now it works perfectly. Then i went through the whole process again with the Y axis... I spent some time getting the coolant working too and cleaning the bed up... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildfowler Posted April 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2013 The next thing is to clean up the turret... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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