Reeceknight Posted October 3, 2013 Report Share Posted October 3, 2013 ok so I'm not new to guns but being a young lad I might not be to good at cleaning them, and I feel now I'm using my aya no2 a fair bit and it's not a cheap gun I should start making not of an effort at maintaining it.iv also started watching others at the clay shoots cleaning there barrels etc and wiping guns down before putting the away. so................ bore snakes any good? what bits need oiling? What's the best oil or grease to buy? how often should I give it a clean? just need some advice to save me wasting money and what not. Thanks Reece Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TwoJackRussells Posted October 3, 2013 Report Share Posted October 3, 2013 Bore snakes are brilliant,oil any metal to metal moving parts, 3 in 1 or similar will do and clean it every time its used! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reeceknight Posted October 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2013 ahhhh yes every time it's used .........like I have been !? Ok so that's settled how often, my over under clay gun has grease on it because I bought it new but the side by side seems dry. is Napier grease any good? Just a small pot. that and a bore snake. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GingerCat Posted October 3, 2013 Report Share Posted October 3, 2013 (edited) They are useful not brillantx 3 in 1 at a push, same as wd40. Get some rods and brush with a jag, kitchen roll. Oil, scrub, jag with roll, scrub, clean bit of paper, squirt of oil and then wipe up with the mop. Take the chokes out, clean and grease or oil the threads , either will do, replace. Wipe the barrels over with lightly oiled cloth. Pit away. Takes minutes Grease metal on metal uf u like, sorry about typos, had a bottle if red. Look afterbit abd it will look after you. Edited October 3, 2013 by GingerCat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reeceknight Posted October 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2013 when I see people wiping down the outer barrels with a spray and what not is that simply for oily finger prints, in witch case won't just a microfiber cloth do? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reeceknight Posted October 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2013 They are useful not brillantx 3 in 1 at a push, same as wd40. Get some rods and brush with a jag, kitchen roll. Oil, scrub, jag with roll, scrub, clean bit of paper, squirt of oil and then wipe up with the mop. Take the chokes out, clean and grease or oil the threads , either will do, replace. Wipe the barrels over with lightly oiled cloth. Pit away. Takes minutes Grease metal on metal uf u like, sorry about typos, had a bottle if red. Look afterbit abd it will look after you. . Hahaha mate your writing got worse as I was reading further down, I can only imagine as you typed the last few lines you was finishing off the final drips from the bottle. Lol iv pieces it togeather thought . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r1steele Posted October 3, 2013 Report Share Posted October 3, 2013 when I see people wiping down the outer barrels with a spray and what not is that simply for oily finger prints, in witch case won't just a microfiber cloth do? No it's to remove the moisture and acids left by your fingers which causes rust. any bare metal should have a once over with an oily rag for this reason. Try putting a NapierVP90 (I think) sachet into your cabinet as well as this helps to protect against corrosion. Remember not to soak the woodwork with oil as it can swell and ruin it. A lightly oiled rag is enough for exposed surfaces and literally 1 drop where metal meets metal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnfromUK Posted October 4, 2013 Report Share Posted October 4, 2013 (edited) bore snakes any good? I prefer a conventional rod with a 'Payne Gallwey' bronze brush with a few drops of bore solvent/cleaner and a bristle brush or mop with a light oil, or Youngs 303. Bore snakes are fine, but in my view more suited to a quick clean (e.g. if you are going to use the gun again the next day etc.) than a proper in depth clean, oil and inspect. what bits need oiling? Moving parts and parts that need corrosion protection. Bits that move quickly under light loads should have light oil, buts that move slowly under heavy loads a light grease. The key is apply very sparingly (never have it running with oil and avoid any oil soaking into woodwork) - and wipe off and re-apply at every clean. This takes all the dirt and grit away. Wood is badly damaged by long term oil soaking in mineral or lubricating oils. Corrosion prevention is best achieved by a wipe with an oily rag with light general purpose oil, or an oil such as Rangoon oil. Should leve an invisible film that is very thin and doesn't run. If any oil runs down, then there is too much there. What's the best oil or grease to buy? Any of the well known brands. I use Youngs 303 for barrel internal cleaning, Parker Hale 'Express' for oil, and light general purpose grease. WD40 is a water displacement. Opinions differ, but I don't personally like it for either lubrication or corrosion prevention. how often should I give it a clean? Every time used, clean the barrels and breech face. Try and wipe off and replace very sparingly oil and grease. Make sure gun is gently dried thoroughly (wood doesn't like being hurried) when wet. Barrels are OK on/by a radiator, but wood is not. Best order is clean soot and residue away, dry, make sure fully dry, then lightly oil/grease whilst having a good look over for problems etc. Put away clean, dry and protected from corrosion. Occasionally give oil finish wood a very sparing 'feed' with some product like Phillips walnut oil or other type of oil specially for wood (NOT mineral or lubricating oil). Edited October 4, 2013 by JohnfromUK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackpowder Posted October 4, 2013 Report Share Posted October 4, 2013 As other posters have said clean after every use and placed into cabinet while holding a cloth or rag. Squares of kitchen roll for me, dry at first then a spray of 3 in 1 and vigourous bronze brushing of the bores. Do not over oil the working parts, after oiling the action wipe of with the cloth you are going to hold the barrels with. Store in the cabinet muzzles down so as that no oil can run back into the stock. Blackpowder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Churchill Posted October 4, 2013 Report Share Posted October 4, 2013 Don't forget to remove, clean and grease your chokes if applicable. I've seen some fun and games watching people trying to get them out once they've rusted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arjimlad Posted October 4, 2013 Report Share Posted October 4, 2013 My method : - Squirt of Napier down the bores 20 mins before cleaning, Remove multichokes. Pass through kitchen roll with a little Youngs 303 removes most of the muck. Clean multichokes at the same time. Phosphor bronze to removes any leading. Clean up with kitchen roll & repass phosphor bronze until leading all gone. Final polish with clean kitchen roll. Wipe the face of the action clean. Blast out the ejectors with Napier aerosol & wipe excess oil away. Reinstall multichokes with just a drop of oil on the threads. Wipe over all metalwork with oily cloth and put gun away muzzles down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dekers Posted October 4, 2013 Report Share Posted October 4, 2013 My method : - Squirt of Napier down the bores 20 mins before cleaning, Remove multichokes. Pass through kitchen roll with a little Youngs 303 removes most of the muck. Clean multichokes at the same time. Phosphor bronze to removes any leading. Clean up with kitchen roll & repass phosphor bronze until leading all gone. Final polish with clean kitchen roll. Wipe the face of the action clean. Blast out the ejectors with Napier aerosol & wipe excess oil away. Reinstall multichokes with just a drop of oil on the threads. Wipe over all metalwork with oily cloth and put gun away muzzles down. Everyone will favour their own method, but that's good enough for me, and as regards Bore snakes :no: , once again, everyone will have their own opinion..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danoi99 Posted October 4, 2013 Report Share Posted October 4, 2013 I grabbed a load of old polo neck t-shirts after my firm changed their name. Cut them all up into rectangles and use them as patches. Ram a patch or two down the barrels, a rigorous blast with the bronze brush, another patch, then a spray.......leave it for a weee while........another patch ( got plenty of um ) one more tiny squirt of Napier and pass the wool mop in and out. Then wipe off all the old grease from anything I can get to.......wipe clean, re-grease. Spray the barrels a tad.......give it a good wipe off ( duster that is now well pregnated with napier oil ) Put the gun back together making sure I dont touch any metal with my acidic sweat soaked mitts.......put back in the cabinet by holding it with the rag. 10 mins tops..........everytime it's shot !! 1 question though? Do you store you guns barrel down to prevent the running oil scenario? is that the done thing? I just make sure I dont over oil the bores !!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reeceknight Posted October 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2013 iv had so much debate over the barrels down thing and no I don't store them like that but yes apparently it is the correct way to doit lol yet that's coming from someone that doesn't clean there guns haha going pigeon shooting Tomorow with the aya and when I get home there both getting a good clean! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GingerCat Posted October 4, 2013 Report Share Posted October 4, 2013 Arjimlad has it about right really. Not so drunk tonight. Arjimlad has it about right really. Not so drunk tonight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
defender Posted October 4, 2013 Report Share Posted October 4, 2013 Little tiny pot of gun grease I bought cost nearly a fiver, looks exactly the same stuff as constant velocity joint grease for cars which is a lot cheaper. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bisley-Moly-Gun-Grease-For-Airgun-Shotgun-Pistol-NEW-/280501164628?pt=UK_SportingGoods_Hunting_ShootingSports_ET&hash=item414f2c1a54 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MOLY-GREASE-MULTI-PURPOSE-GREASE-FOR-CV-JOINTS-400g-CARTRIDGE-FOR-GREASE-GUNS-/400516397356?pt=UK_Vehicle_Oils_Lubricants_Fluids&hash=item5d40a3392c Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fieldwanderer Posted October 4, 2013 Report Share Posted October 4, 2013 Only thing Wd40 is any good for; cleaning shotguns! Does a good job of the bore and good on the outside of the barrels too - useless as a lubricant though. I've used wd40 and 3in1 on my shotguns for years now and it's always been fine, a bit of clean rag for the blueing will eventually be oily and work even better (wd40 contains some oil) and cheap kitchen roll for patches. £3 in pound land should see you right for a couple of months for wd40 and kitchen roll. The 3in1 is from there too but will last a year or so! The important thing is self discipline: I somehow put my first shotgun away uncleaned (aya #3) and it didn't get used for a few months - it's now junk! The barrels are pitted to the point I don't dare to use it! All (probably) because I was in a hurry to get to the pub. Make it the first thing you do when you get home, no exceptions, and your gun won't become an expensive ornament that you only see when you get another gun out of the cabinet! Seemples. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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