First outing for the .22LR

[NickB65]

Well I spent Sunday zeroing the CZ 452 .22LR with its strange Russian Pilad scope and I was impressed. I have not shot .22LR for a while and forgot just how dam awesome it is. Having shot air rifle and shotgun for the last ten years the .22LR is very different. The range on Sunday was the fields at the back of the farm and the long straight tracks made by the tractor. Zero was 50m and the next target was 100m. After ten minutes I was spot on the 50m but due to the type of reticule the 100m was fun. It is an 8x56 G4 scope so I could see the target clearly but was aiming six inches above the target and not very consistent..... but that was Sunday.

 

Wednesday was a **** day at work with an audit from the DWP, job grading in the afternoon so by 4pm I needed to "quality time". I popped home to pick up the rifle and bags and was at the farm by 4:45. The conditions where perfect. No wind, glorious sun and not a cloud in the sky. I kind of rushed getting the gear together so forgot the rifle sling but the CZ is not that heavy compared to the shotgun so not a problem. The plan was to walk around the field clockwise with what little breeze there was to my back and work my way up the hedges. This was more about getting used to hunting with the rifle and shooting with the shooting sticks than getting a huge bag of rabbits. I know the fields well and know where the rabbits are but no the best way to approach them or their habits. The first hedgerow and I spotted several prancing about. I had my game bag, shooting sticks and rifle and knew this was just too much kit. Dumped the sticks and bag and mad my way slowly up the hedge. I knew a long shot of over 100m was not going to be easy with the scope reticule so I tried to get in close but these rabbits have been shot before so they were alert and soon hit the holes. I carried on up slowly and settle prone within 50m of where they were. Within ten minutes a large adult appeared up by the pylons about 100m away. I lined up the gun and placed the top of the reticule on it's head and slowly tracked my way up and when about halfway up squeezed. Nothing....... and then thud and the rabbit dropped. The shot seemed to take an age to fly but that I put down to adrenalin. I laid there with a huge grin on my face..... I had not lost my touch and was about to get up and examine my handy work when two ears appeared from the hole closest to me. I slowly swung the rifle and saw a baby rabbit peak out. Reticule a inch over the head and squeeze and another dropped. I waited for another fifteen minutes but nothing else ventured out so walked back to fetch my gear and then picked up the rabbits. The first was cleanly shot in the head which I was well chuffed with but the second was low which miffed me as it was the easier shot. The rest of the evening I played hide and seek with more rabbits so I need to improve the field craft a little more.

 

Lessons..... 1. check you have all the kit you need 2. don't take too much kit 3. practise some close shots.... 4. stop grinning

 

And for those who ask why shot a baby rabbit... this is pest control and a baby rabbit this time of year well may have its first little by the end of the summer..... if not before.

[moorvale55]

Thanks, I enjoyed reading that. I also use a 452 in .22lr, (and also one in .17hmr). What is the problem with the reticle on the scope?

[nderfel]

a great read mate, sounds like you had fun.

[jam1e]

There's always something nice about reading other peoples outings. I suppose as shooters we can picture the scene.

Well done to you!

atb

Jamie

Edited March 13, 2014 by jam1e

[NickB65]

Thanks, I enjoyed reading that. I also use a 452 in .22lr, (and also one in .17hmr). What is the problem with the reticle on the scope?

The reticule is a G1 reticule so the lower vertical post is a thick line with an arrow point on top - http://deadliestfiction.wikia.com/wiki/File:German_reticle_copy.jpg so when I am aiming with hold over I block out the target and loose track of where I am aiming. I have ordered a new scope with the same mag of 8x56 but with a mil-dot reticule which should come today.

 

For those who shoot .22lr what is you zero and typically at what distance do you shoot the rabbits or targets at?

 

I assumed 50m was a good zero but looking at the power of the gun and a good scope 100m should be just as easy?

 

BTW I am using Winchester sub-HP

[moorvale55]

I see what you mean with the reticle. I zero at 50 yds and with holdover shoot to about 100.

Just an afterthought: go to the Hawke Optics website and download the BRC app for free. You can enter your own information and get various types of feedback re bullet drop etc.

Edited March 13, 2014 by moorvale55

[Thunderbird]

I've got a BRNO Mod 2 (basically an early version of the 452 I think). I zero at the distance I normally shoot the rabbits at, which is about 70 yards.

 

I also do a lot of low-mag standing shots at 30-40 yards due to the nature of the terrain. Works well.

[kent]

The reticule is a G1 reticule so the lower vertical post is a thick line with an arrow point on top - http://deadliestfiction.wikia.com/wiki/File:German_reticle_copy.jpg so when I am aiming with hold over I block out the target and loose track of where I am aiming. I have ordered a new scope with the same mag of 8x56 but with a mil-dot reticule which should come today.

 

For those who shoot .22lr what is you zero and typically at what distance do you shoot the rabbits or targets at?

 

I assumed 50m was a good zero but looking at the power of the gun and a good scope 100m should be just as easy?

 

BTW I am using Winchester sub-HP

 

50 yards, this should give you 11/2" low at 75 and 6-8" low at 100 yards depending on your choice of subsonic and bore to scope height etc. Zeroing much further than 50 can be a big mistake leading to creating a high peak trajectory somewhere under 50 for little gain and embarrassing misses over the top on shorter so called easy shots. Consider setting a whole 1" high at 50 is possibly going to be higher over the top at say 30-35 yards, than the drop you might save at 70-75 from a 50 yards zero.

In practice it easy to just point and shoot up to about 60 or so yards, so you only need ask yourself is it further than 50-60? and how much so? 75 is just over the top of the head and looks obviously further than 50 (50% more obviously) 100 looks long and generally requires good knowledge of the land or range finding by some means (using a fixed mag for a long time you can develop a heck of a knack for ranging bunnies).

I never know how far my shots are going to be, so I need a system I can work to, after trying all sorts over the years this works just fine for me from very short range to about 130 ish

[Thunderbird]

 

50 yards, this should give you 11/2" low at 75 and 6-8" low at 100 yards depending on your choice of subsonic and bore to scope height etc. Zeroing much further than 50 can be a big mistake leading to creating a high peak trajectory somewhere under 50 for little gain and embarrassing misses over the top on shorter so called easy shots. Consider setting a whole 1" high at 50 is possibly going to be higher over the top at say 30-35 yards, than the drop you might save at 70-75 from a 50 yards zero.

In practice it easy to just point and shoot up to about 60 or so yards, so you only need ask yourself is it further than 50-60? and how much so? 75 is just over the top of the head and looks obviously further than 50 (50% more obviously) 100 looks long and generally requires good knowledge of the land or range finding by some means (using a fixed mag for a long time you can develop a heck of a knack for ranging bunnies).

I never know how far my shots are going to be, so I need a system I can work to, after trying all sorts over the years this works just fine for me from very short range to about 130 ish

 

Actually I think this is good advice. I zero at about 70 for reasons related to my main shooting positions and the lie of the land. At that range I'm prone and on the bipod. Shorter range shots are almost always stranding shots and I know where to adjust mag/aim aim to account for the higher zero.

[aister]

My .22 is zeroed at 60 yards, when I started with the .22 first after owning a .17hmr for a couple of years I tried all different distances and found 60 yards to be the best for me. Like Kent says, a zero much further than 60-70 yards you need to start aiming low at the closer rabbits which is something I have always found hard to do especially if the shot is rushed.

[welshwizard]

As you are using subsonic rounds and have zeroed for same have you compared your scope settings at longer range but changing rounds to high velocity , just curious as to

point of zero changing ammo for long range .

[welshwarrior]

For me 55 yards gives me the best trajectory with my set up point and shoot 20-65 yards but if I went back to my old scope 50 worked best 20-60 yards point and shoot. It all target time with you kit.

[kent]

My .22 is zeroed at 60 yards, when I started with the .22 first after owning a .17hmr for a couple of years I tried all different distances and found 60 yards to be the best for me. Like Kent says, a zero much further than 60-70 yards you need to start aiming low at the closer rabbits which is something I have always found hard to do especially if the shot is rushed.

Especially as you take those shots quickly and not all will be taken by aiming a similar amount low as the bullet forms an arc above the line of sight. If the arc was flatter say with HV a 70-75 zero might be ideal.

 

If your set zero is 48-60 yards depends much on your scope to bore height and subsonic ammo of choice

[NickB65]

Thanks for the feedback. Next week I will try setting up the gun for a zero of say 60m and see how this goes at 100m and closer 30m shots.

 

I use Winchester SubHP which but I have not tried any others as most people seem to rate the Winchester.

 

I use the iStrelok app on the iPhone and it seems to be quite accurate and gives a good "estimate" as to aim points.

Edited March 14, 2014 by NickB65

[kent]

Thanks for the feedback. Next week I will try setting up the gun for a zero of say 60m and see how this goes at 100m and closer 30m shots.

 

I use Winchester SubHP which but I have not tried any others as most people seem to rate the Winchester.

 

I use the iStrelok app on the iPhone and it seems to be quite accurate and gives a good "estimate" as to aim points.

Try it the old way 10 x A4 cards at 10 yard intervals or 20@ 5yds. Shoot I five shot group at each then you see the drop, windage difference and the repeatability possibility through increasing group size

[welshwizard]

Especially as you take those shots quickly and not all will be taken by aiming a similar amount low as the bullet forms an arc above the line of sight. If the arc was flatter say with HV a 70-75 zero might be ideal.

 

If your set zero is 48-60 yards depends much on your scope to bore height and subsonic ammo of choice

that's what I was getting at but you put it better kent

[bruno22rf]

Lot of people going to disagree but if you want better accuracy at long range try RWS ammo-or Eley-nuff said

[kent]

Lot of people going to disagree but if you want better accuracy at long range try RWS ammo-or Eley-nuff said

 

My experience also is RWS is very good on accuracy but prints about 1 1/2 -2" lower being among the slowest of subs, Eley subs good also, Sk have been favourite for me for about ten years (they used to sold as Lapua though).

[Thunderbird]

I use CCI "small game" subs in mine and I have tried a lot, these are my personal favourites.

[Redgum]

wind on your back, no wonder bunnies gave you the run around you need the wind in your face.

[Dekers]

 

Only 50 yards and a good day, but that seems pretty fair to me!

[Uncle Albert]

I zero my CZ 455 at 50 yds and take bunnies out to 120 max. With my scope that is 2.5 mil dots.

 

It's best to take time and do a range card. Use the method Kent suggests. It takes time but it pays off in the end. You can make a small card up and stick it on the inside of your scope cover or a slightly larger one to put in your jacket pocket. With all the wet weather I have not been able to get out for some time so a range card comes in useful to get used to your aim points regarding hold over. Saves a lot of wasted lead shooting over or under their heads.