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Patternmaster code black duck


Richie10
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Super after chokes have their place and I love mine , but they are for speclised shooting where you expect most of your shots to be on the edge of effective range , say 50 yards. For shooting birds at under 40 yards they are a handy cap for the average shot as they can shoot so tight and if you do hit a birds at 30 yards or less there is a very good chance you will smash it. They come into their own when shooting at 50 yard geese with big shot , with say BBB or flighting high mallard when using no 2 pellets. For the more normal no1 steel pellets for geese or no 3 for duck they are of little use as by the time the pellets are 50 yards out they are loseing speed and penertration. It will not matter how many pellets your full choke puts on the target if the pellets have lost their power.

 

I use a HLS Undertaker after choke with a constriction of .700 ( thats close to full lead choke ) and at 50 yards it will poleaxe pinks at 50 yards time after time. I would not recomend a novice to start using a full after choke untill he has a few years range judging experiance behind him and developed his shooting skills to cope with long shots and even then reconises 50 yards is his limit.

I totally agree with most of what you say, but when you say 'smash a bird', what do you mean, exactly? I have shot several ducks and geese at close quarters with a very tight choke and I have never 'smashed' a bird. The only times I really ruin a bird is occasionally when I 'middle' a close range pigeon with lead.

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I know very little about fixed chokes, in fact I know nothing about then, as I have always had a s x s with half and full and once had a 3" with full and full. But what I was thinking, do the advantage of being able to shoot geese ect at 50yds out weigh the disadvantage of a tight pattern for shooting duck and geese at the average or normal range of say 25yds to 40yds , as one member said he missed some easy shots because the choke was to tight.

 

When I am shooting over a flash of water or on the river most of the duck are in the above range , if the odd one is nearer you can leave it to get a few more yards before you give a shot and with half choke you aint gonna do to much damage to the bird your shooting at, and at a longer range I have got the full choke barrel if I need it .

 

I know some of you boys have been shooting a long while and can put the shot in the right place at 50yds resulting in a kill ,but if we are truthful about it a lot of us cant and I would advise the ones who cant including myself to stick to the range your happy with . No one can kill or drop something with every shot , but if its taking more than 1 in 3 to get a goose your either shooting at a to longer range or your not putting the shot in the right place and one of these tight chokes isn't going to help you to much.

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Motty , when I say smash a bird I mean to hit it with so many pellets that its uneatable. I have only done this once with an after choke when I let a bunch of wigeon come in too close and almost cut one in half at 20 yards. But back in the old lead days I have hit a couple of pheasants a bit too hard with a full choke and once a woodcock when shooting in the middle of a willow thicket. But the more usual result when using an after choke at close range is a clean miss.

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Some of patterns off the Pattern Master duck were gappy with clumping of pellets. Yes more in the circle but some gaps too.

 

I like a more even spread of pellets and found the kicks high flyer mod gave that and patterned bb shot very well. Don't have an aftermarket for my Beretta yet as I wanted to see how the factory chokes performed first after Berettas claim that they were designed to shoot great patterns with steel. Cack is the answer,1/4 is ok over a splash for close in twnty to tweny five yard max shots. 1/2 is ok at around forty five to fifty yards with no 1 or bigger shot but cack at less than thirty five,so tight and to easy to miss.So no good for where I shoot as I get close and rangy from moment to the next.

 

Interested in the Muller H2O passing if any one has patterned them and What are they made out of.

 

Be great if we could get a one choke does all just change your shot and load size,kicks was close.

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Figgy ,

fyi.

 

H20 - I have patterned the Passing , in an Informal way , to my satisfaction 2 years ago with no photos , sorry.

 

I can tell you they are very light chokes and made from , taken from there home page.
Aerospace-grade aluminum base is TWICE as STRONG as steel. CERAMIC TEFLON INFUSION results in the hardest, slickest choke on the market today.

 

No Single choke will do it All ,as we know and there are , DECOY , PASSING and UFO for a reason . I was intending to get a UFO choke at the start of this season , but our

"Blue suited fraternity" over here wish to do away with semis , without compensation for the loss of the gun, so I wasn't going to waste another £100 on a choke I would get little use out of .

 

As regards Range and pattern , well subjective as it is I can tell you that this past week I shot a Pair of Jack Snipe with the passing - 1 at 21 or 22 yds and the other at about 45yds. Also Several Wigeon in very stormy conditions from 25 to 50yds or so , without , Smashing them . So from that you can see it is possible to manipulate the Choke , Cart combination to throw a worthwhile pattern for various Quarry species.

Other than when I have been using my 20g, I have used the Passing choke in 12g all season for my fowling , 20 to inside of 55 yds . Please note I have the "Luxury" of being able to still use lead . I am quite happy to leave this choke in my gun for the Season .I would not be happy to leave my Black Duck choke in there and in fact I cannot see myself using it again ,

 

 

PS , I use Comp N Choke EXT chokes in my 20g . I understand that they are currently producing H20 for the 20g . Again as my A400 20g is a Semi I am not sure if I will gamble with a choke purchase for the above reasons . I would if the Blue Cloud , was not hanging over my head .

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I have a PM code black goose

It is very tight and do sort of give the appearance that you dont have to give as much lead not sure but it is hit or miss. ihave shot pigeons with mine and at 35/40 yrds you hit them with nearly every pellet in the cartridge.

But i like it and i can use it but they take some getting use to

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I have a Patternmaster code black duck and wasn't sure about it for a start but once you have used it and got used to it they are good. Its good for geese but I use a Anaconda short range duck if solely going for duck especially over splashes. The Anaconda is also very good on Pigeons. With the code black duck you either hit them and stop them very well or you miss completely.

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Thanks for all your input chaps. Went to the marsh and morning flight was only high birds going from the fields to the river which was flat calm. Put my decoys out and soon as it turned light the birds scarer came on!

None of the birds were staying on the marsh or even coming near the decoys, so nothing to report at the moment.

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Thanks for all your input chaps. Went to the marsh and morning flight was only high birds going from the fields to the river which was flat calm. Put my decoys out and soon as it turned light the birds scarer came on!

None of the birds were staying on the marsh or even coming near the decoys, so nothing to report at the moment.

The bird scarer i take it no-one wants him near them :lol:

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