fieldwanderer Posted January 27, 2015 Report Share Posted January 27, 2015 Some time ago now, I made myself a "rotary" but gave up using it after a few trips as I didn't have much success with the thing. I've decided to have another go with it but I cut the arms up to make something else so, I'm looking into what's considered the best way to go before buying any materials. I looked into fiberglass or carbon rod to keep the weight down but it's expensive and I need a 90 degree bend at the end for the hypa flaps or cradle thingy. So, I decided mild steel would be best but 6mm or 8mm? And would 2mtrs each side be too much? If so, what's the longest you'd recommend? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cosd Posted January 27, 2015 Report Share Posted January 27, 2015 You need sprung steel (not sure on correct terminology) as the arms can bounce and if not sprung steel, they will bend and stay bent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fieldwanderer Posted January 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2015 Hmm, that makes it quite a bit more difficult. Anyone know where I can buy spring steel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fenboy Posted January 27, 2015 Report Share Posted January 27, 2015 If you get down to my part of lincolnshire I have some home made extending arms you can have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fieldwanderer Posted January 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2015 That's very kind of you fenboy, thankyou, however, I've just parked up for the night after a run up to Glasgow so I've had plenty of time to think about this and I think I've come up with a plan. I've completely redesigned the base so will now be quite a bit lighter and I'll use some cheap bouncers I have for the arms but will need to make some 90 degree adaptors for the decoys at the very end. Is 18" long enough for a ground spike? I've yet to decoy over a deep crop so guess about a foot off the ground should be enough but can always make an extension if needs be (it'll have stabilisers too) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motty Posted January 28, 2015 Report Share Posted January 28, 2015 That's very kind of you fenboy, thankyou, however, I've just parked up for the night after a run up to Glasgow so I've had plenty of time to think about this and I think I've come up with a plan. I've completely redesigned the base so will now be quite a bit lighter and I'll use some cheap bouncers I have for the arms but will need to make some 90 degree adaptors for the decoys at the very end. Is 18" long enough for a ground spike? I've yet to decoy over a deep crop so guess about a foot off the ground should be enough but can always make an extension if needs be (it'll have stabilisers too) I think you'll have trouble if you use a material for the arms that is too flexible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fenboy Posted January 28, 2015 Report Share Posted January 28, 2015 I agree with Motty , I dont think bouncers will make strong enough arms . Ground spike should not need to be 18" long make a base with three spikes about 10" and that should be plenty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aga man Posted January 28, 2015 Report Share Posted January 28, 2015 (edited) I have used 10mm hollow steel tube for arms with 8mm rod slotted inside, held by a home made adjuster. I made them this way to be able to extend the arms but have never needed to. The arms are sturdy and fairly light. The home made adjusters, not pretty but they work! Edited January 28, 2015 by aga man Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JDog Posted January 28, 2015 Report Share Posted January 28, 2015 I have never considered adjustable arms for my rotary. Aga man, didn't you shoot 300 in that field with those 'not very pretty' adjustable arms? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
la bala Posted January 28, 2015 Report Share Posted January 28, 2015 6mm stainless rod 1.3 -1.5 metres x 2. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aga man Posted January 28, 2015 Report Share Posted January 28, 2015 I have never considered adjustable arms for my rotary. Aga man, didn't you shoot 300 in that field with those 'not very pretty' adjustable arms? Sure did, infact in excess of 300 in sepaerate visits 138 was the best bag the day this photo was taken. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fieldwanderer Posted January 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2015 Thanks chaps, stainless sounds good being a little less "soft" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lakeside1000 Posted January 29, 2015 Report Share Posted January 29, 2015 I have had the same problem , the mild steel I used for the mark 1 was far too soft and just collapsed under the weight of two dead birds, I tried reinforcing them but too heavy, so I have made two more out of 6mm rebar, concrete reinforcing bar , comes in 6 metre lengths from the builders merchants and is a much harder type of steel, you will need to heat it to bend it but it holds up a lot better under stress, I cut mine at 4 feet long plus the bent bit on the end, not too long to carry but gives an 8 foot diameter circle , seems to work fine. I do prefer to use Hypaflaps on the magnet but when I run two I normally have Hypa's on one and dead birds on the other, only because I cant afford another pair of Hypaflaps at nearly £40. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fieldwanderer Posted January 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2015 thanks lakeside, that's another option cheaper too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Westley Posted January 29, 2015 Report Share Posted January 29, 2015 I have made a couple of arms from glass fibre tent poles 8mm. I used araldite on the joints, along with a small self tapping screw (to stop them from twisting). An 8mm copper elbow araldited in provided the 90 degree bend. A short piece of square section aluminium, again araldited on with a self tapper support, fits my home made machine. I only use them for the Hypa flops, but they are a dream to carry any distance, weighing very little. My machine is made from a childs aluminium stilt, the footplate is for pushing it into the ground. The motor is a 12 volt motor from a childs 'Dareway', ride on scooter thing. Fixed to the pole with 2 large jubilee clips. 4 lengths of para cord and tent pegs provide the stability. The whole outfit weighs very little and is easily carried in the side pocket of my large rucksack. It has worked well enough for me for the last few years, without problems. A speed controller made from bits from Maplins (not the Holiday Camp !) and a fuse holder, together with a 12 v 12 ah battery, complete the outfit. The speed controller being the most expensive bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deny essex Posted January 29, 2015 Report Share Posted January 29, 2015 I have made a rotary with telescopic fishing whips, 7 foot arms they were around 10 foot but removed the more flexable 2 top sections , 12 volt handles hypas and plastics , recently adapted it to take real birds as well but un-tested at the moment , dont doubt the arms with the weight but question mark on the whips twisting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
la bala Posted January 29, 2015 Report Share Posted January 29, 2015 Dont think 6 foot or 8 foot arms make any difference, its the movement of the decoys which pulls them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fieldwanderer Posted February 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2015 O.k. so, I re-built my magnet and used the bouncers (though I made sure I didn't do anything that would stop them being used as bouncers) for the arms. they're extendible but I needed a way to mount the hypaflaps or wing spreaders at 90 degrees to the arm. So, I used some 6mm steel in the outer part of the arm but bent to suit. Sofar, it seems to work fine but I need to paint it to make it a little less obvious and it's not really worked out any lighter unfortunately. I'll get some pictures up when I'm all done but thankyou all for the advice Looking forward to giving it a try Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TIGHTCHOKE Posted February 2, 2015 Report Share Posted February 2, 2015 I have made a couple of arms from glass fibre tent poles 8mm. I used araldite on the joints, along with a small self tapping screw (to stop them from twisting). An 8mm copper elbow araldited in provided the 90 degree bend. A short piece of square section aluminium, again araldited on with a self tapper support, fits my home made machine. I only use them for the Hypa flops, but they are a dream to carry any distance, weighing very little. My machine is made from a childs aluminium stilt, the footplate is for pushing it into the ground. The motor is a 12 volt motor from a childs 'Dareway', ride on scooter thing. Fixed to the pole with 2 large jubilee clips. 4 lengths of para cord and tent pegs provide the stability. The whole outfit weighs very little and is easily carried in the side pocket of my large rucksack. It has worked well enough for me for the last few years, without problems. A speed controller made from bits from Maplins (not the Holiday Camp !) and a fuse holder, together with a 12 v 12 ah battery, complete the outfit. The speed controller being the most expensive bit. You should add some pictures! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Westley Posted February 5, 2015 Report Share Posted February 5, 2015 I would if I could, bloody computors ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fieldwanderer Posted February 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2015 Well, I thought I'd got some pictures today but can only find this one; [/url] Other than that, it just looks like any magnet really I was quite impressed at how realistic it looked though, with hypaflaps I'll be back first thing, hopefully for a decent day on the pigeons so I'll try to get some more pictures Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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