Jay_Russell Posted May 12, 2015 Report Share Posted May 12, 2015 As per some suggestions in another post, anybody know where i can get some? Nothing comes up on google 'purdey gun stock oil' Also the previous owner mentioned he has use briwax on the stock, i assume this will need to be removed before oiling, whats the best way? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a303 Posted May 12, 2015 Report Share Posted May 12, 2015 Briwax?? Sure he didn't mean bee's wax?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnphilip Posted May 12, 2015 Report Share Posted May 12, 2015 Briwax is used to make furniture look old. It is used to give a finish that seems to have depth and usual takes a few coats to form a build up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Westley Posted May 12, 2015 Report Share Posted May 12, 2015 0000 grade steel wool and some stock oil NOT True-oil. Apply small drop of stock oil and rub with steel wool until a drab look appears. Clean off with white spirit or better still, Meths. Apply alkanet root oil, very small amounts at a time, until desired colour, allowing 24 hours between coats. Then use stock oil as per manufacturers instructions, again leaving 24 hours between coats. A search back through previous threads will give you all the info you need as it has all been covered many, many times before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay_Russell Posted May 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2015 0000 grade steel wool and some stock oil NOT True-oil. Apply small drop of stock oil and rub with steel wool until a drab look appears. Clean off with white spirit or better still, Meths. Apply alkanet root oil, very small amounts at a time, until desired colour, allowing 24 hours between coats. Then use stock oil as per manufacturers instructions, again leaving 24 hours between coats. A search back through previous threads will give you all the info you need as it has all been covered many, many times before. Cheers for that, ive read several posts on the matter, i was meaning best way to remove the briwax before appyling oil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Westley Posted May 12, 2015 Report Share Posted May 12, 2015 In that case the very fine steel wool will do the trick. I would buy a full pack, if you keep it dry it will keep for ever. It is also very good with 3 in 1 oil for removing light surface rust from barrels, without removing the blueing. Very handy stuff to have in. I usually buy 0000 grade and some coarser stuff too, as I do all of my own stocks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay_Russell Posted May 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2015 (edited) Cheers westley Edited May 12, 2015 by Jay_Russell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welshwarrior Posted May 12, 2015 Report Share Posted May 12, 2015 As above 0000 steel wool to remove the layer of wax. never heard of Purdey Stock Oil but can ask in there on Saturday Trade Secret is a good commercial oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loriusgarrulus Posted May 12, 2015 Report Share Posted May 12, 2015 http://www.shootinguk.co.uk/reviews/shotgun/purdey-side-by-side-shotgun-review According to this review Purdey use something called Slakum oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gunman Posted May 12, 2015 Report Share Posted May 12, 2015 A few years ago when every one and their uncle was selling or promoting some new/old /secret oil there was something called "slacom" or similar spelling that Purdey's were supposed to use that was on sale . Personally I use Trade Secrets products and not just because its made by an old mate of mine . As to removing old finish or treatments standard paint thinners is good but it will take pretty much every thing off and if used with wire wool can leave you with having to fill grain . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJsDad Posted May 12, 2015 Report Share Posted May 12, 2015 The oil(s) I believe you are refering too are made by `Warthog Gun Care Products`, Ford Green Mills, Smallthorne, Stoke-on-Trent. They use Purdeys name on the bottle of Slackum oil, so it is obviously manufactured and sold with approval from Purdey. Last time I tried to buy some (about 5 years ago) the kits of rubbing oil and Slackum oil + abrasive pads, were not available so I bought a half-litre bottle of Slackum Oil. Having prepared the stock and applied several coats of Alkanet Root oil, I use the Slackum which needs to be left for about an hour to an hour and a half (it must not be allowed to go hard). Once the Slackum has turned `tacky` it is then rubbed off using (artist quality) refined linseed oil. I then burnish using `Rottenstone` which is a very fine abrasive, it also fills the tiny pores in the wood. The stock finish is then allowed to harden for a couple of days and the procedure repeated untill the desired finish is achieved. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welshwarrior Posted May 12, 2015 Report Share Posted May 12, 2015 The oil(s) I believe you are refering too are made by `Warthog Gun Care Products`, Ford Green Mills, Smallthorne, Stoke-on-Trent. They use Purdeys name on the bottle of Slackum oil, so it is obviously manufactured and sold with approval from Purdey. Last time I tried to buy some (about 5 years ago) the kits of rubbing oil and Slackum oil + abrasive pads, were not available so I bought a half-litre bottle of Slackum Oil. Having prepared the stock and applied several coats of Alkanet Root oil, I use the Slackum which needs to be left for about an hour to an hour and a half (it must not be allowed to go hard). Once the Slackum has turned `tacky` it is then rubbed off using (artist quality) refined linseed oil. I then burnish using `Rottenstone` which is a very fine abrasive, it also fills the tiny pores in the wood. The stock finish is then allowed to harden for a couple of days and the procedure repeated untill the desired finish is achieved. That's how a proper stock oil works I make my own using a recipe handed down to me by a H&H finisher works a treat if done right, lots of the modern oils have cheats built in to speed it up but the finish is not as good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay_Russell Posted May 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2015 Im starting to think i might just leave the wood alone lol! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJsDad Posted May 12, 2015 Report Share Posted May 12, 2015 If you have any doubts or are not going to finish stocks on a regular basis you would probably be better off using one of the commercialy available stock finishing oils. Just to amuse myself I googled `Warthog Gun Care` & cant find them, so perhaps they have ceased trading. I think the half litre bottle of Slackum set me back about £36, but it will probably last me out; and I regularly finish stocks, so I wasnt bothered. But if its all you can obtain for 1 stock, it makes the job pretty expencive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay_Russell Posted May 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2015 The only reason i was interested in doing it is ive just purchased a 40 year old sbs and i wanted to give the stock some love and bring it back to its glory even though it looks ok as apart from a wipe of briwax it hasnt been touched at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJsDad Posted May 12, 2015 Report Share Posted May 12, 2015 In which case get a small bottle of refined boiled linseed oil. Rub the stock down lightly with some 0000 wire wool; longitudinally with the grain & rub oil in, small ammount only. Allow to dry for a few days and then rub in a small ammount of oil once a week. A small ammount of Terebine (paint dryer) added to the oil speeds up the drying. But only add about 2 drops to a small bottle of oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay_Russell Posted May 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2015 Ok, i understand the need for just a drop of oil on each side to. Does it need buffing up once its dry or will it just get that sheen after a few coats? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnfromUK Posted May 13, 2015 Report Share Posted May 13, 2015 (edited) Briwax http://www.briwax.co.uk/products/briwax.html is a wax based on beeswax and carnuba wax. It may not be quite the 'right thing' for gunstocks, but its not a 'bad' silicone wax. My inclination, unless you are trying for a full refinish is to use a little more wax such as Red Kite gunsmiths London wax http://www.####.co.uk/rkc07---red-kite-gunsmiths-london-wax-finish---traditional-matt-gun-stock-finish-2858-p.asp - or indeed a little more Briwax. Edited May 13, 2015 by JohnfromUK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnphilip Posted May 13, 2015 Report Share Posted May 13, 2015 two things to remember about briwax use in well ventilated area let it dry a little then rub like hell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guzzicat Posted May 18, 2015 Report Share Posted May 18, 2015 For just a single stock I recommend the Napier London gunstock finish kit , it has all you need & full instructions, gives a very good finish & lasts well, I have done several stocks with mine & still have some left.There is also a D.V.D.available. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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