johnphilip Posted April 1, 2018 Report Share Posted April 1, 2018 On fresh sanded wood , its first few coats need to be thinned out , this helps the finish soak into the wood .when i do some wood turning i use , sanding sealer. It does two jobs first it seals the timber and lifts any saw dust onto the top .allowing you to resand it sooth , then you can use the finish of your choise linseed oil would not be my first choice . Its only good on cricket bats . I would go for danish oil or tounge oil .plenty of rubbing .some people use just there hand and use the palm of there hand to get the oil warm and let it soak in better .the more coats you use the darker the wood becomes . That were you desided what finish you like to see .the beauty of the lathe is you leave the worked piece on the lathe and let the lathe run , make life easy the lathe is doing the work . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted April 1, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2018 i wont be using any varnish at all on the handles....it will make the handles slippy when wet....i will put a tad of boiled linseed oil on and rub it in to liven the look up...and thats it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Walker570 Posted April 1, 2018 Report Share Posted April 1, 2018 These blanks I have treated with wood hardener come up tidy. I have sanded and then polished a couple and I don't think they would need anyhting further. I have found a little vacuum unit which may also be adequate for the relatively thin pieces of wood....only 25 notes so worth trying. When I have a few sets made I'll send you some over to have a look at. Novel way of doing the pins. Looks good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted April 1, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2018 19 minutes ago, Walker570 said: These blanks I have treated with wood hardener come up tidy. I have sanded and then polished a couple and I don't think they would need anyhting further. I have found a little vacuum unit which may also be adequate for the relatively thin pieces of wood....only 25 notes so worth trying. When I have a few sets made I'll send you some over to have a look at. Novel way of doing the pins. Looks good. its a wharts an' all post............not the best finish...but will be perfect when i have some really true sharp drills...everything will be slick as snot....will also change the boss and shield for ...copper...brass...bronze...steel...stainless steel....sort of mix and match depending on the scale material used......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
panoma1 Posted April 1, 2018 Report Share Posted April 1, 2018 Will not the shock from peening over the pins risk cracking the scale? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted April 1, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2018 1 hour ago, panoma1 said: Will not the shock from peening over the pins risk cracking the scale? no....not at all....the sheild spreads out the loaded area...and as you can see on the pics i have chamfered the sheild (inner) and i have chamfered the brass rivet...doing the rivet like that sends a pressured column down the middle of the rod to fit the chamfer,....it also swells the central first part of the rod...rather than draw together with peening..........the otherway is to peen it over...and that way ....as you point out would be difficult to control the ammout of squeeze to the scales..... have another look at the pics and you will see what i mean.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Walker570 Posted April 2, 2018 Report Share Posted April 2, 2018 The problem with drills tearing the edge of the hole is always a problem in some woods, they all differ. I was planning on drilling a guide hole smaller than required and then using a milling bit at high speed to finish the job. Have not tried it yet. Thoughts ?? I think that drilling the pin holes in this 'treated' wood will drill much more cleanly as the 'resin' will have all the fibres locked together. Peeing down this morning so might just try it as it looks like indoor play. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted April 2, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2018 drill speed helps...and a good sharp metal bit and put the scale in a leather lined vice....i will buy some different bits this week and let you know how i get on....also toying with the idea of making my own... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
panoma1 Posted April 2, 2018 Report Share Posted April 2, 2018 11 hours ago, ditchman said: no....not at all....the sheild spreads out the loaded area...and as you can see on the pics i have chamfered the sheild (inner) and i have chamfered the brass rivet...doing the rivet like that sends a pressured column down the middle of the rod to fit the chamfer,....it also swells the central first part of the rod...rather than draw together with peening..........the otherway is to peen it over...and that way ....as you point out would be difficult to control the ammout of squeeze to the scales..... have another look at the pics and you will see what i mean.... I See! Do you peen using a hammer, freehand as is? Or a press? So pressure is applied to the rivet accurately? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old'un Posted April 2, 2018 Report Share Posted April 2, 2018 1 hour ago, Walker570 said: The problem with drills tearing the edge of the hole is always a problem in some woods, they all differ. I was planning on drilling a guide hole smaller than required and then using a milling bit at high speed to finish the job. Have not tried it yet. Thoughts ?? I think that drilling the pin holes in this 'treated' wood will drill much more cleanly as the 'resin' will have all the fibres locked together. Peeing down this morning so might just try it as it looks like indoor play. Would a brad point bit stop this splintering? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted April 2, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2018 1 hour ago, panoma1 said: I See! Do you peen using a hammer, freehand as is? Or a press? So pressure is applied to the rivet accurately? just use an ordinary 3.5oz flat tack hammer...that has been sanded off........... 14 minutes ago, old'un said: Would a brad point bit stop this splintering? changed the MO thismorning............ got out my unused titanium drill bit....as that is quite sharp its 9.5mm and the insert is 10mm...but as it is wood it will drill a slightly larger hole and ends up as press fit...it follows the 3mm rivet hole fine....centralises very quickly.. gave it a bit of stain..(using mahogany this time)................rekon that combination will look really smart on the bog oak walker sent me....on the antler i will use a copper insert (shield) and brass rivert............... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old'un Posted April 2, 2018 Report Share Posted April 2, 2018 What metal are you using for the insert? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted April 2, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2018 16 minutes ago, old'un said: What metal are you using for the insert? none of you would guess in a 1000 years what they(inserts) are made from.......................................... here is the story...................................are you sitting comfortably ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TIGHTCHOKE Posted April 2, 2018 Report Share Posted April 2, 2018 Yes thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old'un Posted April 2, 2018 Report Share Posted April 2, 2018 Old rifle barrel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old'un Posted April 2, 2018 Report Share Posted April 2, 2018 Pregnant pause…………………………………………………...come on then, tell us. And yes I am sitting comfortably, this bloody rain as kept me indoors today. 13 minutes ago, ditchman said: none of you would guess in a 1000 years what they(inserts) are made from..........................................Ok, its metal so what do I win? here is the story...................................are you sitting comfortably ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted April 2, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2018 i have this mate who is a tin smith at lawrence and scott electro motors ...in norwich.....he gets me off cuts of steel etc..... weeelllll.............they had a clearout a few years ago stuff dating back before the 2nd world war.......but during the war lawrence&scott used to make bits for spitfires and do engine rebuilds on radial engines.......... they are ...so im told stock steel for making aero engine "push rods"....they have a small 2mm hole down the middle....they were cut to lenght and the balls put on either end which had a small hole in...and it became a push rod...oilway to the tappets........... there you go !!! and the rivets are made from 3mm brass ARC WELDING RODS....... recycling at its best..... the steel is quite hard but cuts with a hack saw and drills nice and clean....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old'un Posted April 2, 2018 Report Share Posted April 2, 2018 Hmmmm I was thinking, you know, they look like push rods for the spitfire engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TIGHTCHOKE Posted April 2, 2018 Report Share Posted April 2, 2018 Great story and great re-cycling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
panoma1 Posted April 2, 2018 Report Share Posted April 2, 2018 That has just put another £5 on the purchase price! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted April 2, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2018 18 minutes ago, panoma1 said: That has just put another £5 on the purchase price! at least......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Walker570 Posted April 2, 2018 Report Share Posted April 2, 2018 The story alone is worth twice that. Adds a very nice twist to the story on "The Knife", if I live to see it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted April 2, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2018 23 minutes ago, Walker570 said: The story alone is worth twice that. Adds a very nice twist to the story on "The Knife", if I live to see it. sorry about the slowness of it all..............when i am financially embarrased things come to a standstill..............if i was still working i would be churning out dozens of bblades before breakfast............just have to watch the pennies..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old'un Posted April 2, 2018 Report Share Posted April 2, 2018 So what are you short of to get things moving? I have a few old mates from my tool making days they may have a few bits lying around that might be useful to you. Why not do an early Christmas list and see what turns up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TIGHTCHOKE Posted April 2, 2018 Report Share Posted April 2, 2018 Similar to crowd funding? What do you need Simon? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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