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"im mainly (at it again)"


ditchman
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ordered up a full set of polishing mops and meduim's ....coarse....medium....medium fine.........and ceramic cutting belts....will order up the different bits of steel in the next few days...

 

"the games afoot"....................:yes:

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wasnt entirley happy with the rivet inletting...so i made myself a tool to improve the finish....with which im happy with now...................i will be spending a lot of time putting really nice handles on these blades  ...so i dont want a rubbish finish...........

you can see on the pic' of a drilled out piece of mahogany where the base of the hole is not flat....this is what i was trying to improve.......the steel inserts will be epoxy ed into the handle ...then cleaned out and the handle assembled ....riverted and smoothed off........

thats the isdea anyway............

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Edited by ditchman
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I love ingenuity:good:  Have some well seasoned yew and will have some impregnated woods soon, so if you need some additional supplies just shout.  When impregnated with resin the wood cuts very precisely almost like micarta.  I like the idea of those inserts ...suppose you couldn't thread them and then the pin would screw tight right the way through. ??? a fine thread shouldn't show when cleaned off...... just an idea .. BUT do you need that sort of secure fitting ?  Epoxied dozens of handles now and never had one come off or pins move.

 

Was thinking of a vaccuum chamber but watched a guy treat some pieces of wood prior to them being fitted to a knife...maybe 1/4 inch thick or so, maybe 5/16th and he had a Kilner jar like you would use for preserving fruit, put the hardening fluid in the jar and then the wood, then brought the temp up to almost boiling with the lid just loose enough to let air pass, then lifted out of the water and tightened lid imediately.  As the fluid cooled you could see bubbles coming out of the wood as the vaccuum formed above the fluid. Was adequate for thin pieces of wood the size you would use for knife handles.  Now sourcing a large Kilner jar to give it a go.

Should work because just leaving the pieces to soak for two days and the fluid almost reached the centre.

Not advisable on an open flame heat supply. Hardener is flammable.

Edited by Walker570
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4 minutes ago, Walker570 said:

I love ingenuity:good:  Have some well seasoned yew and will have some impregnated woods soon, so if you need some additional supplies just shout.  When impregnated with resin the wood cuts very precisely almost like micarta.  I like the idea of those inserts ...suppose you couldn't thread them and then the pin would screw tight right the way through. ??? a fine thread shouldn't show when cleaned off...... just an idea .. BUT do you need that sort of secure fitting ?  Epoxied dozens of handles now and never had one come off or pons move.

you are right.....i could stick them on and thats that....................its really just me.....i want to "engineer" everything...:lol:....i always have to take the difficult path..........i like to marry steel with wood it just looks nice...if these knives turn out ok ...i intend to start deep engraving the brass and bronze with a profusion of ivy leaves..........thats for the future anyway

when i make my lock knife...it wont have any rivets........i hate it when you have a nice folding knife and after a couple of years the blade gets a tiddly bit loose....a good knife is like a good watch....you have it for a long time and it can be mended....so after a lot of use the knife can be fettled and easily tightened....and it will become an heirloome....

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Agree 100%   PLUS   

I have a couple of folders which are adjustable for wear. Had them many years and they are in almost everyday use.  One is a double Buck folder and I have tightened it up just once in the last 15 yrs.  No rivets, all screws and can be completely taken apart if needed.

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45 minutes ago, Walker570 said:

I have just wasted half a glass of amber liquid spit spluttered over the screen....will you pleases desist from such frivolus remarks !!!!!!

He's been bingeing on the Lucozade again 

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Quote

Was thinking of a vaccuum chamber but watched a guy treat some pieces of wood prior to them being fitted to a knife...maybe 1/4 inch thick or so, maybe 5/16th and he had a Kilner jar like you would use for preserving fruit, put the hardening fluid in the jar and then the wood, then brought the temp up to almost boiling with the lid just loose enough to let air pass, then lifted out of the water and tightened lid imediately.  As the fluid cooled you could see bubbles coming out of the wood as the vaccuum formed above the fluid. Was adequate for thin pieces of wood the size you would use for knife handles.  Now sourcing a large Kilner jar to give it a go.

I wanted to treat a silk line & got this idea off one of the American Fishing Forums.

Just used a large beetroot jar, cut a hole in the top lid so the rubber wine plug fit tight, poured the liquid in, tightened the top, then fitted the pump.

Half a dozen pumps & you could see the bubbles rising, worked a treat.

Bay of Plenty...202284889570

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Had a delivery ofr supplies today for polishing and cutting

 

  1. a viceous looking cramic cutting belt for bulk removal
  2. set of mops 4"...fine medium coarse
  3. set of pastes fine medium coarse

had a fiddle about ....and the process will be...........

 

  1. cut with 80 ceramic belt..(stock removal)
  2. clean and shape 120-150 belt
  3. wet&dry 400-600 blade
  4. polish with coarse
  5. polish with medium
  6. hand finish with diamond file

just got to order up the steel now........still decieding on the thickness of the 3 stainless i need.......

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10 minutes ago, Old farrier said:

Nice delivery 

if I may suggest a good pot of water adjacent to the machine 

heat is not your friend at the polish stage 

well said............it has been mentioned before....for the cutting and the polishing...next to do on my list now.....i have an 8" mop at the moment on an 8" grinder....i went for a set of 4" so i could get more torque ....and i can certainly apply more pressure..:good:

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52 minutes ago, ditchman said:

well said............it has been mentioned before....for the cutting and the polishing...next to do on my list now.....i have an 8" mop at the moment on an 8" grinder....i went for a set of 4" so i could get more torque ....and i can certainly apply more pressure..:good:

And I thought it was the grit in the soap that’ll polish your blade 

and the pressure just creates more friction and heat 

 

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2 hours ago, Old farrier said:

And I thought it was the grit in the soap that’ll polish your blade 

and the pressure just creates more friction and heat 

 

the 8" mop creates a lot of drag and slows down the wheel....the 4" hard mop is a sisal mix.........i dont want to spend all day doing it...

 

when you put the paste on....i use fat based pastes or wax.....there is a lot of drag on the mop as it i9s cold....when it heats up i loose the drag as it becomes more slippy.........youve got to get heat in it for it to work proper...

Edited by ditchman
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2 minutes ago, la bala said:

Some nice straight grinds there ditchman, what do you think of the ceramic belts for first pass.

dont know i havnt used it yet..........those grinds were from a couple of weeks ago with an old belt (120)...to check the angles....

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QUESTION

 

there is another thread running at the moment about stainless steel...............

if i purchase 304 s/s and slow my drill press down to 500rpm and use a cooling fluid and titanium coated drill bits...........

will i have any problem drilling through 304 s/s...............

:hmm:

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