Mitsubishi Pajero 4WD issues

[Acerforestry]

Ok, so I bought a spares / repairs 1999 Pajero (same as Shogun Sport) recently, wasn't expecting too much for the money but it runs, is road legal and basically solid but there are a few issues to iron out. Not sure if anyone on here is well versed with 4wd problems with Jap vehicles but on this the 4wd light is flashing, and to me at least it feels like 4wd must be engaging as it generally feels like it isn't free running enough to only be on 2wd, can only describe the drive as grippy / binding. I've only been driving it for just over a week and have been flat out with work so not had time to look at it, but a commercial diesel fitter I know said it would most likely be the 4wd solenoid selector and suggested removing that and replacing asap. Tried to do this but no room to even move a spanner without taking loads of brake pipes etc out of the way and in desperation I've just cut the loom wires to the solenoid on the basis that if that didn't fix it, they could just be reconnected later. No different afterwards...now finally tomorrow I should be able to get the front end up on axle stands, and If I understand this correctly if I have the front end in the air supported and start / engage drive very gently, not only will the rear wheels creep and threaten to push it off the stands ( I only have two before you ask)but if it is still in 4wd the front wheels will begin to turn. Is this the easiest way to establish what drive it is in with just two stands?

This is obviously an issue as tarmac use in bone dry conditions on a current 50 miles daily commute isn't ideal

Thanks in advance

[Rewulf]

It sounds like you need a mechanic TBH.

Cutting wires and not being sure if its going to drive off if the front end is off the ground ?
Take it to a garage.

[scarecrow243]

join the wires back up move the lever to 2wd then drive it straight in reverse that should disengage 4wd to 2wd  some 4wd lights flash to warn you are in 4wd

[Rewulf]

1 minute ago, scarecrow243 said:

join the wires back up move the lever to 2wd then drive it straight in reverse that should disengage 4wd to 2wd  some 4wd lights flash to warn you are in 4wd

Worth a try , that did used to work on the older ones , when the solenoid (very often ) got stuck.

[bluesj]

Sounds very much like a solenoid or vacuum problem.  There are 2 little solenoids on the bulk head that control the actuator on the front axle on the actuator there are 2 little rubber pipes one is a vacuum line from the vacuum tank via one of the solenoids  the other is a breather to the other solenoid.

Some times the breather can block this will stop the actuator returning and  keeping the front axle "locked in 4 wheel drive" even though its not in 4 wheel drive at the transfer box. the usual cause is mud in the end of the solenoid/breather

I will try to find a photo.

 

https://www.milneroffroad.com/product/differential-actuators-locking-components-axfa-ax/free-wheel-clutch-control-4wd-solenoid-007282?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI7MuBmtnB-QIVC5ftCh0iagAWEAQYBCABEgJF9fD_BwE

Don't know that this is the one for your car but the photo will be thr same idea.

The one with the blue spot is the breather one and the little plastic cap on the top is what usually blocks.

Edited August 12, 2022 by bluesj

[wisdom]

Whatever you do don't stick the fronts on stands and see if they move with the rears it could easily end in disaster.Especially as its an unknown quantity.

[Acerforestry]

1 hour ago, Rewulf said:

It sounds like you need a mechanic TBH.

Cutting wires and not being sure if its going to drive off if the front end is off the ground ?
Take it to a garage.

I possibly know more than you think about mechanical repairs. Cutting wires in this case at worse cause lack of 4wd (not an issue in the summer), and can easily be rejoined, careful clutch control with it on stands at front is only a disaster if you are clumsy - I don't recall saying it would possibly take off. If I could afford to keep taking vehicles to mechanics and losing the use of the vehicle, I wouldn't be asking

[Dave at kelton]

1 hour ago, scarecrow243 said:

join the wires back up move the lever to 2wd then drive it straight in reverse that should disengage 4wd to 2wd  some 4wd lights flash to warn you are in 4wd

I had an l200 that occasionally did this and driving in reverse always cured it.

[Rewulf]

2 hours ago, Acerforestry said:

I possibly know more than you think about mechanical repairs. Cutting wires in this case at worse cause lack of 4wd (not an issue in the summer), and can easily be rejoined, careful clutch control with it on stands at front is only a disaster if you are clumsy - I don't recall saying it would possibly take off. If I could afford to keep taking vehicles to mechanics and losing the use of the vehicle, I wouldn't be asking

I rest my case. 

[Acerforestry]

Thanks for helpful replies anyway, the vacuum pipes come up frequently as sources of problems for sure

[sam triple]

I personally wouldn’t cut anything repairs generally in wet and mud aren’t as good as the original offerings , forums and then you tube  are my go to places before I try anything 

[Dave-G]

Hopefully just a wire damaged on rough ground, fingers crossed, let us know the outcome please.

 

[Sussexboy]

We had a Shogun Sport for about 12 years that would do this from time to time. One thing to check is the vacuum solenoid on the front axle. If the boot is split then they can fill with dirt and detritus and the actuator can stick in the on position. Likewise if the boot is not split it can be full of old sticky grease and the actuator can stick in the on position. I think what I am trying to say is make sure that the solenoid is physically working before doing drastic things like cutting wires etc. 

They also stick half way so that the front axle is disengaged but the green light on the dash keeps flashing. It is very annoying…..

[udderlyoffroad]

I’ve just encountered a similar issue my L200  (different vehicle but shares a lot of the transmission components).  The actuator was very stiff and eventually jammed, which in turn caused the solenoids to burn out.

I don’t need to add anything to what’s already been written above about your, uh, proposed fault finding method.  All I would suggest is, there are plenty of websites out there (of the dodgy, Russian persuasion) that have put the official workshop manuals online, which include a fault finding chart/procedure for 4wd drive problems.  Use that.

Also, as you have a centre differential, your proposed 'donkeying' axle stands method will not work, as the power will be set to the front axle and the rear will just sit there.  You'd need to engage the centre difflock too, but I doubt you'll be able to, as if it's the same as later generations, the difflock will not engage unless the system is happy 4wd is correctly engaged.

Finally. 'just cutting wires' and later rejoining them will introduce potential faults and weak points later down the line. Think of the next guy to work on it.  Which, as you don't take your car to mechanics, will be you.